Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end May. If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease.
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots.

• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Lessons from Nature
Plant List for Perennial Sale
May 20, 2023

 
Some varieties there are only 1 or 2 of, others quite a few. A few items aren’t even up yet so additional plants will be added during the weeks to come. First come first served.
 
170 Pine Street, E Aurora
Sat, May 20 – 9:00-2:00
 
Shrubs:
                                              
Pussy Willow                                         Little Kim Lilac
Lynwood Gold Forsythia                       Bridal Veil Spirea
Shrubby St. Johns Wort                       Spicebush  
Flowering Raspberry                            Twisted willow (tree)
Anabelle hydrangea
                        
Sun:
                                                                                             
Perennial geranium                    Shasta daisy                                     Sundrops                                    Zig-zag goldenrod
Variety of asters                          Bouncing Bet                                               
Barren Strawberry                     Monkshood
Black-Eyed-Susan                     Daisy Fleabane
Filipendula                                 Crainsbill Geranium
Sunflower                                   Phloz
Mini Cranesbill Geranium
                                
Part Sun:
                                           
Forget-Me-Not                           Anemone – white, & ruffled
Dwarf  Solomon’s seal              Candelabra primrose                                
Ladies Mantle                           Shredded Umbrella
Astilbe (dwarf)                          Stary Solomon’s Seal
White wood anemone            Corydalis –Yellow & white                     
Blue lobelia                              Bouncing bet
Astilbe – variety of colors        Sundrops
Golden ragwort                       Wood pea
Bachelor buttons                     Blue Wood Aster
White Wood Aster                   Ajuga                                   
Gold Star                                 Bleeding Heart
Kirengeshoma                         Clematis
Rodgesia                                  Brunnera
Japanese hydrangea              Chocolate snake root
                                           
                                    
Shade:
                                           
Dwarf Comfrey                          Hosta – a few varieties, minis
Persicaria                                  Primrose
Toad Lily                                    Pulmonaria –
European Ginger                      Lenten Rose, white, pink & deep purple 
Curley Ginger                            Native ginger
Primula kisoana – rare variety   Candelabra primrose                                
Corydalis                                    Astilboides tabularis    
Wood Poppy                              Bloodroot, single & double
Brunnera                                    Twin leaf
Early & Tall Meadow Rue          White Violet
Japanese Painted Fern              Ostrich Fern
Tall meadow rue                         Early meadow rue
Double green trillium                 Pink lily of the valley
Goldenseal                                 Sweet woodruff
Marsh marigold                          Water leaf                                                                                     
                                                                                             
         Natives:
 
Evening Primrose                      Tall Meadow Rue
Solomon’s Seal                          Twinleaf
Ginger                                        Golden Ragwort
Gold Star                                     Goldenseal                   
Blue Wood Aster                        Early Meadow Rue
Ostrich fern                                Clematis
White Wood Aster                      Wood Poppy
Bloodroot                                    Marsh marigold
Filapendula                                White violet
Flowering raspberry                    Lobelia – blue
Waterleaf                                     Double Bloodroot
Zig-zag goldenrod                       Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Monkshood                                  Starry Solomon's seal
Chocolate snake root
 

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• If you’re dying to do some gardening work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with steel wool.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

• There’s lots you can do outside. Whatever you do be mindful of not walking on the soft soil. If you can see your footprint don’t go on the soil.
  • Lots of sticks and branches are down after our damaging winter. Pick up the ones you can reach.
  • This is the ideal time to prune most trees or shrubs (that don’t bloom in the spring).
  • If your tree/shrub has broken or damaged branches those should be pruned back to a main branch or stem. Don’t leave stubs is one of the basic rules of pruning.
  • If a shrub, like an arb, is splayed you can try wrapping it up with twine (not plastic cord). It should be OK.
  • Some trees may just have to be removed. Check with an arborist for an assessment of the damage.
  • Many damaged shrubs can just be cut back, and they will regrow. My Bottle Brush Buckeye is so badly damaged I’m going to cut the whole thing back about 6 inches from the ground and hope for the best.
  • Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.

• Other timely tips
  • Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
  • There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
  • Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
  • Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
  • The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance.
  • If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.
  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.
  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on pruners and shovels.
  • Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• If some of your trees or shrubs are still bent over from the snow and ice wait till it warms up a little and they straighten out.
• Broken or snapped branches should be pruned off back to the main trunk or nearest branch. DON’T LEAVE STUBS. That’s a basic rule of pruning.
• Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way. Also check for branches that are crossing each other and creating a wound from the rubbing.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.
• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation
• It’s going to be interesting to see what March brings. It could be Spring or Winter.
• Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs. His books will be available for sale. 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• If you still have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient an let them melt out naturally. I still have a shrub in front near the street, that the snow mound never totally melted. At this rate it may be there till spring!
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener 

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.
• There are many arbs and other shrubs that are totally bent over. It’s so tempting to try to straighten them but leaving them for now is the best approach.
• If a whole tree has come over and you can right it and cover the roots wit soil it may survive. You’ll probably have to stake it for support until next summer when the roots have taken hold.
• Gathering lower branches from discarded Christmas trees makes an excellent winter mulch to protect tender perennials from temperature fluctuation 
• This is a good time to spend time with your houseplants.
  • Give them a bath to wipe off the accumulated dust and grease. This is especially important for plants in the kitchen where grease is more of an issue.
  • If the plant is small enough, you can take them to the sink and spray them with tepid water. It’s also good to let the water drain through the soil. This helps rinse out accumulated salts.
  • For larger plants you can wipe down the leaves with a mild soapy water cloth or sponge. Then wipe with clear water.
  • Give your plants a haircut. Remove damaged or dead leaves or prune to control size.
  • Check for insects. Sticky residue on leaves or surfaces around the plant is caused by insect droppings. Check the plant carefully to see what insect is there. The most common are aphids, spider mites, white fly or scale.
  • To help in ID check “houseplant pests” on the Cornell website. The site will also have suggestions for control.
• January is when many of us start dreaming of spring and gardening. It’s a good time to plan for improvements and changes. Make a list of what worked and what didn’t then list ideas for what to do next season.
• There are some great educational opportunities coming up that can help in your planning.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening 
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth. 
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a ”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book n hydrangeas will speak on  Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

•  Nature’s Best Hope, by Doug Tallamy. This book covers a new approach to conservation which starts in your yard.
•  Deer Resistant Native Plants for the Northeast, by Ruth Rogers Clausen and Gregory Tipper. A wonderful resource for anyone with deer issues. Covers detailed information about each plant.
• A Lessons from Nature gift certificate for a garden consult or perennials from the plant sale next May.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Watering has to be a priority and the way you water is important.
  • Most pots in the sun will nee watering every day. If it is a very full pot possibly 2/day. Ones in the shade probably less. Watering until the water runs out the bottom of the pot ensures the whole pot is moistened. The way to tell if a pot needs watering is to poke your finger into the soil down a few inches. If the soil is moist you don’t have to water. Overwatering in pots can be as harmful as underwatering.
  • For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
  • Don’t worry if your grass starts to turn brown. Grass naturally goes dormant in dry periods, and it doesn’t harm the grass. It will green up with the next rain.
  • The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
  • For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.
• This past week I’ve seen a few Japanese beetles. If you get the first ones, you will decrease the total amount that find you. Check the plants you know they prefer. Get out a container with a few inches of soapy water and knock the little buggers in. Gives me great satisfaction. For more info: https://blogs.cornell.edu/willow/files/2014/10/Japanese-Beetle-Popillia-japonica-fact-sheet-16vi6b4.pdf
• An insect that is in abundance this season is 4 lined plant bug. It’s a small yellow and black striped true bug that has a piercing mouth part that leaves small round dark circles in the leaves. Fortunately, this doesn’t kill the plants, but it is unsightly. They lay their eggs in the stems of the effected plants so at the end of the season cutting down those stems helps reduce the infestation next year. For more info: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/four-lined-plant-bug/
• I’ve also seen signs of powdery mildew. This is a whiteish coating on the leaves. For plants like phlox that are susceptible to fungal disease you can start treatment before it shows symptoms. Treat with an environmentally safe fungicide specific to your problem. Remove affected leaves and disinfect your pruner and hands before moving to another plant. For more info:  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/powdery-mildew/
• If you fertilize your plants, it’s best to do it when the soil is moist. Natural fertilizers are much better for the plants and soil than chemical ones. Chemical fertilizers contain salts which kill the natural microbes in the soil which are what feed the plants. Chemical fertilizer is OK for pots as that soil is discarded each year.
• Because of the intense heat it’s best to wait till fall to do any transplanting. It’s very stressful for the plants. If you have to move something, give the plant some shelter from the sun with a box or umbrella for a few days and keep it well watered.
• If any of you are having problems with the lily leaf beetle (a small red beetle on true lilies) try a squirt of Dawn dish liquid in a spray bottle of water. A few people have said that helps. I’ve seen them on tricyrtis (toad lily) this year so check out those as well. For more information check:

• Then there’s weeding… Just when you think you’re finished more pop up. Try and keep up or at least remove or deadhead weeds before they drop seed. If you haven’t mulched this will help control the weeds.

 
Gardening events in July:
 
Garden Walk Buffalo, Open Garens and the weekend community garden walks are up and running. Open Gardens are every Thursday and Friday in July. Unfortunately my gardens will not be open this year.
 
For information and schedules go to https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/ or buffaloniagaragardening,com. The Open Garden books which include all activities are also available at select nurseries and some of the Open Gardens.
 
The East Aurora Garden Walk will be July 16 & 17, 10:00 – 3:00. My gardens will be open that weekend. Stop by and say hello.
 
 
Lessons from Nature events:
 
I will start hypertufa and concrete birdbath and steppingstone classes in a few weeks. Each class is $30 and you get to make 2. Contact me and we can set up a class of up to 4 people.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

It's that time of year again: our annual plant sale! Please see the list below to learn about our selection of perennial plants that will be available for sale. 

                           Partial Plant List for Perennial Sale 2022
 
Some varieties there are only 1 or 2 of, others quite a few. A few items aren’t even up yet so additional plants will be added during the weeks to come. First come first served.
 
170 Pine Street, E Aurora
Sat, May 21 – 9:00-2:00
 
Shrubs:
                                                           
Pussy Willow                                                  Little Kim Lilac
Lynwood Gold Forsythia                                 Bridal Veil Spirea
Viburnum; Wentworth                                    Button Bush
Flowering Raspberry                                      
                                   
Sun:
                                                                                                                                               
Perennial geranium                                          Shasta daisy                                         Sundrops                                                         Zig-zag goldenrod
Variety of asters                                              Bouncing Bet                                                              Barren Strawberry                                           Mountain Mint
Black-Eyed-Susan                                           Daisy Fleabane
            Filipendula                                                      Crainsbill Geranium
                                                           
Part Sun:
                                                           
Forget-Me-Not                                                Anemone – white, & ruffled
Dwarf  Solomon’s seal                                    Candelabra primrose                                      
Ladies Mantle                                                  Shredded Umbrella
Astilbe (dwarf)                                                 Stary Solomon’s Seal
False Solomon’s Seal                                      Corydalis –Yellow & white                            
Big Leaf Aster                                                 Blue lobelia                                        
Astilbe – variety of colors                                Sundrops
Golden ragwort                                               Solomon’s Seal - variegated
Bachelor buttons                                              Blue Wood Aster        
White Wood Aster                                           Ajuga                                                                          Gold Star                                                      Bleeding Heart
Amsonia                                                          Foxglove
                                               
Shade:
                                                           
Dwarf Comfrey                                               Hosta – a few varieties, minis
Persicaria                                                         Primrose
Toad Lily – 2 varieties                                     Pulmonaria –
European Ginger                                             Lenten Rose, white, pink & deep purple 
Curley Ginger                                                  Native ginger
Primula kisoana – rare variety                         Candelabra primrose                                      
Corydalis                                                         Astilboides tabularis   
Wood Poppy                                                   Bloodroot, single & double
Brunnera                                                         Jacob’s ladder
Early & Tall Meadow Rue                              White Violet
Japanese Painted Fern                                     Ostrich Fern
Epimedium                                                                                                                 
                                                                                                                                   
            Natives:
 
Evening Primrose                                            Tall Meadow Rue
Solomon’s Seal                                               Twinleaf
Ginger                                                             Golden Ragwort
Gold Star                                                         Amsonia
Viola - purple                                                  Big leaf aster
Blue Wood Aster                                             Early Meadow Rue
Ostrich fern                                                     Clematis
White Wood Aster                                           Wood Poppy
Field goldenrod                                               Bloodroot
Filapendula                                                      White violet
Flowering raspberry                                        Lobelia – blue
Waterleaf                                                         Double Bloodroot
Zig-zag goldenrod                                           Jack-in-the-Pulpit                                                       
Shrub – Button bush                                                   
                                                           
 
 I look forward to seeing you there!

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end of May.
• You may see frost damage on some plants a few days after a frost.  The leaves or tips of leaves turn black and crunchy.  Don’t panic. Frost damaged leaves can be pruned off.  Most perennials will have a strong enough root system to send out new shoots.
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• If you do buy a perennial or annual and it’s too cold to plant, keep them in a sheltered area until the temps improve.
• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

 
When buying plants look for ones that are deer resistant. There are many excellent lists online including the one from Cornell below:
 
warren.cce.cornell.edu › gardening-landscape › deer-resistant-plants
 
 
RECYCLE pots, treys & blinds here. I can use pots 4 inches and up and flat carrying treys. No 6 packs. Also, if you are discarding any Venetian blinds or see some in the garbage, please save them for me. I use the blinds for price tags for the plant sale.
 
NOTE: For those of you in Amherst who are used to dropping things off at 37 N. Union, the property has been sold so please don’t drop pots off there. THANKS!!!!
 
Now is the time to make changes and improvements in your garden. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices and guarantee to save you time and money. Contact me fort an onsite consult. Also check out my website for past Garden Tips and articles: lessonsfromnature.biz.
 
Upcoming Plant Sales & Events: Put them on your calendar now!
 
            Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.
            Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.
 
Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen Folts, the owner. I will also have a selection of hypertufa containers, draped concrete planters and birdbaths.
 
Since it’s been so cold and rainy, I’ve only started potting up and some plants haven’t even come up yet. A list of available plants will be sent out the week before the sale.
 
            Note: all my plants will be potted in soilless potting mix due to the threat of the Asian jumping worm. If you’re not aware of this threat, you can get information at: http://ulster.cce.cornell.edu/environment/invasive-pests/jumping-worm
 
Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinman’s. Perennials for sun and shade, natives, annuals, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art. Plants are from MG gardens and donated by local nurseries.
 
East Aurora Garden Club Perennial Sale, Saturday, May 28^th 8:30 – till sold out.
In the Village Plaza on Grey Street where Tops is. The sale is located under the roof overhang between TJ Max and Pet Smart. Plants from Garden Club member’s gardens, great selection.
      
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

As I write this it’s March 29 and I’m looking out my window at snow covered gardens. Hopefully by the time you read this we will be back to spring like weather. Keep in mind that this slow to arrive spring is not a bad thing. If it had gotten warm for longer periods in March trees and shrubs would have budded out more. With the super freezing weather the last 2 days those buds would have been zapped. This is a common problem in our area. Bottom line, the cold erratic weather in March wasn’t a bad thing for nature.
 
A few thoughts on what you can be doing now:
 

• Don’t worry about spring bulbs that had started peeking out. They have a natural “antifreeze” that protects them from freezing.
• There’s still plenty of time to prune non spring flowering trees and shrubs. Check online on how to prune specific plants. The most important universal tip is not to leave stubs. Cut back to a leaf or branch join. On trees make your cuts just outside the branch collar (bumpy looking bark where the branch joins the trunk or stem).
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown.
• The soil is still way too wet and cold to do any planting or dividing.
• Once the soil is workable (doesn’t stay in a clump if you make it into a ball) and temps warmer, perennials from your garden can be divided and transplanted. They are used to the temp of the soil so won’t suffer shock.
• Perennials purchased from a greenhouse should wait until the temps and soil are warmer since they are not used to the outside temps.
• Even if April gets warm be cautious about putting out annuals. May is a month that usually has some frost. 
• If you’re like me and haven’t cleaned and sharpened your tools, now is a good time. It makes a huge difference on how well the tools operate.
• Clean out containers. Brush off old dirt (I use an old toilet brush) and scrub off the white residue that may be on the outside. Steel wool or a wire brush works for this. Then dip the pot in a 10% Clorox solution. If the container is too large to dip the solution can be sprayed on.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. As you observe your garden coming back to life take some notes as to what needs to be done: moving, dividing, removing, and planning additions and improvements. If you need help with your planning, contact me for an onsite consultation.
• Make a list of needs BEFORE going plant shopping in May so you can avoid impulse purchases that may or may not work in your garden.
• Keep in mind if you’re adding any plants, shrubs, or trees check out natives that would be appropriate. Might as well help nature while having a beautiful garden.
• If you have a problem with deer start your spraying as the plants they like come up. I’ve already had some munch on perennials sticking their heads out only to be chopped off.
• Best advice BE PATIENT!! Rushing things is counterproductive.

 
Upcoming Garden Events:
 
The annual Lessons from Nature Perennial and Native Plant Sale will be Saturday, May 21 from 9-2. Clients and those receiving these tips can come at 8 and avoid the crowds.
 
Once again Ellen Foltz from Amanda’s Garden will be here with her excellent selection of natives.
 
Save the date. More details about the sale will be in the May Garden Tips.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices while saving you time and money.

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

Because of the few mild spring like days we’ve had we have to remember it is March and spring could be a long way off. This has been an unusual winter so it’s hard to know what to expect. We just must be patient and know spring WILL come eventually. The following are some ideas of what you can do now to prepare for the gardening season.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

• Take advantage of the continuing cold weather to get your garden tools cleaned and sharpened.

• If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance. If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.

• Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.

• Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on shovels as well as pruners. Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)

• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.

• I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If it’s done it when the soil is very wet or still frozen the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.

• Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.

• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.

• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.

• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.

• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.

Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.

Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz

Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 12 from 9:00am – 3:00pm.  

We are excited to announce his year’s Education Day will be in person. This will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:

Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:

 Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden

Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow

Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:

Floriferous Design

The cost is, $45 for MG’s, $60 for the public. Morning break with snacks and hot buffet lunch included.
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 652-5400 ext. 176.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help with pruning, improve your garden and gardening practices and save you money!
 

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera

Lessons from Nature

170 Pine St.

E. Aurora, NY 14052

[email protected]

652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• If you collected pine boughs for winter plant protection and there’s too much snow to put them out, just save them in the garage or a pile and put them out when the snow melts.
• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• We’ve had a lot of wind lately so it’s a good time to pick up sticks and debris.
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring.

• This is a good time to prune. First check for wind damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432
 
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Believe it or not you can still plant those bulbs in the garage! As long as the ground isn’t frozen you can plant them.
• Since there isn’t any snow cover (at least as I write this here in E Aurora) there is time to finish those fall chores you didn’t get to like bringing in plant stakes and supports. I just completed that core this week.
• Anything else like garden art, birdbaths or pots should be brought in the garage, basement or wherever you keep things that will be damaged by winters snow and ice.
• If you still have unplanted trees or shrubs that can be planted as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Left over potted perennials can be dug into the ground or compost pile. They can also be placed together in ground cover or in the garage and covered with leaves or straw to protect from temperature fluctuations.
• Perennial weeds can be removed if you can reach them without stepping on the soft soil. Imagine weeding in January!
• Many of the perennials left up will get knocked over by snow or wind. That’s OK. They form a nice winter protection for the root systems.
• Check out last month’s Garden Tips on my website (lessonsfromnature.biz) for more tips on winter protection. Since we haven’t had much snow it’s necessary to offer some added protection from temperature fluctuations AND critters.

• Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
• Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.

Dear Gardening Friends,
 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Leaves work well also. Instead of raking them all to the street save a few bags or piles to much those tender perennials.
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• This is a good time to prune away any branches that have been or might be damaged from winter wind or in the way. Make sure to trim back to a branch join and not leave stubs. Most other pruning should wait till late winter/early spring.
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Pull all annuals. It’s tough when some still look so good but they are easier to deal with before they collapse from frost 
• It’s late to bring in annuals as the nights have been so cold, they won’t adapt well to the warm house. This goes for cuttings also.
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. 
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. Leaving them outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak. A handy way to store them is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable. 
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. My fencing will start going up this weekend. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while for the shrub coats. It’s predicted to be a warmer than average November, but time will tell. (Check my website for last months Garden Tips. They contain more detailed info on winter protection.)
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.
• Tools should also not be left outside. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Emerald Ash Borer. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to syphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you.
• Houseplant tips: If you brought in houseplants that were outside all summer check them for insects. They will probably drop some leaves which is a normal reaction to being moved inside. Make sure to give them the appropriate conditions. It’s best not to crowd them although being grouped together lightly helps hold in humidity. Most plants will not do well in windowsills where it’s colder and the leaves come in contact with the cold glass. It’s better to put up a table in front of the window.