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    Lyn Chimera is a Master Gardener, consultant and lecturer.

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May '22 Tips

5/2/2022

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

 
As I write this it’s a cold and snowy morning. Don’t know about you, but I’m ready to turn the page on April and hope May brings more consistent spring like weather.
 
April has been a good lesson in patience. It’s way too soon to even think about buying annuals or other tempting things in nurseries. I have been dividing and moving some perennials within my gardens because they are already acclimated to the weather and soil.
 
The following are a few tips for May:
 
  • Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end of May.
  • You may see frost damage on some plants a few days after a frost.  The leaves or tips of leaves turn black and crunchy.  Don’t panic. Frost damaged leaves can be pruned off.  Most perennials will have a strong enough root system to send out new shoots.
  • If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
  • It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.
 
 Early May is an ideal time to divide or move perennials already in your gardens. Signs they need dividing are: overcrowding, lower bloom the previous season, and if plant has a bare spot in the center known as the donut hole. If after 3 years in a location a plant isn’t thriving, try moving it to a more suitable spot or share with a friend.

However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots. 

Weeding should be a priority. Perennial weeds are up now and will be much easier to remove when small. If removed now you also prevent the weed from developing seeds and spreading even more.
  
The soil is still much too cold to plant greenhouse grown perennials, annuals, and vegetables. Wait until the soil is above 50 degrees. As an example, tomatoes planted too soon don’t do as well as those planted at the end of May. Remember Patience! The final average frost isn’t until late May so don’t get fooled by a few warm days.
 
  • If you do buy a perennial or annual and it’s too cold to plant, keep them in a sheltered area until the temps improve.
  • There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

 
When buying plants look for ones that are deer resistant. There are many excellent lists online including the one from Cornell below:
 
warren.cce.cornell.edu › gardening-landscape › deer-resistant-plants
 
 
RECYCLE pots, treys & blinds here. I can use pots 4 inches and up and flat carrying treys. No 6 packs. Also, if you are discarding any Venetian blinds or see some in the garbage, please save them for me. I use the blinds for price tags for the plant sale.
 
NOTE: For those of you in Amherst who are used to dropping things off at 37 N. Union, the property has been sold so please don’t drop pots off there. THANKS!!!!
 
Now is the time to make changes and improvements in your garden. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices and guarantee to save you time and money. Contact me fort an onsite consult. Also check out my website for past Garden Tips and articles: lessonsfromnature.biz.
 
Upcoming Plant Sales & Events: Put them on your calendar now!
 
            Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.
            Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.
 
Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen Folts, the owner. I will also have a selection of hypertufa containers, draped concrete planters and birdbaths.
 
Since it’s been so cold and rainy, I’ve only started potting up and some plants haven’t even come up yet. A list of available plants will be sent out the week before the sale.
 
            Note: all my plants will be potted in soilless potting mix due to the threat of the Asian jumping worm. If you’re not aware of this threat, you can get information at: http://ulster.cce.cornell.edu/environment/invasive-pests/jumping-worm
 
Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinman’s. Perennials for sun and shade, natives, annuals, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art. Plants are from MG gardens and donated by local nurseries.
 
East Aurora Garden Club Perennial Sale, Saturday, May 28th 8:30 – till sold out.
In the Village Plaza on Grey Street where Tops is. The sale is located under the roof overhang between TJ Max and Pet Smart. Plants from Garden Club member’s gardens, great selection.
      
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 

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April 2022 Tips

4/1/2022

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

As I write this it’s March 29 and I’m looking out my window at snow covered gardens. Hopefully by the time you read this we will be back to spring like weather. Keep in mind that this slow to arrive spring is not a bad thing. If it had gotten warm for longer periods in March trees and shrubs would have budded out more. With the super freezing weather the last 2 days those buds would have been zapped. This is a common problem in our area. Bottom line, the cold erratic weather in March wasn’t a bad thing for nature.
 
A few thoughts on what you can be doing now:
 

  • Don’t worry about spring bulbs that had started peeking out. They have a natural “antifreeze” that protects them from freezing.
  • There’s still plenty of time to prune non spring flowering trees and shrubs. Check online on how to prune specific plants. The most important universal tip is not to leave stubs. Cut back to a leaf or branch join. On trees make your cuts just outside the branch collar (bumpy looking bark where the branch joins the trunk or stem).
  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown.
  • The soil is still way too wet and cold to do any planting or dividing.
  • Once the soil is workable (doesn’t stay in a clump if you make it into a ball) and temps warmer, perennials from your garden can be divided and transplanted. They are used to the temp of the soil so won’t suffer shock.
  • Perennials purchased from a greenhouse should wait until the temps and soil are warmer since they are not used to the outside temps.
  • Even if April gets warm be cautious about putting out annuals. May is a month that usually has some frost. 
  • If you’re like me and haven’t cleaned and sharpened your tools, now is a good time. It makes a huge difference on how well the tools operate.
  • Clean out containers. Brush off old dirt (I use an old toilet brush) and scrub off the white residue that may be on the outside. Steel wool or a wire brush works for this. Then dip the pot in a 10% Clorox solution. If the container is too large to dip the solution can be sprayed on.
  • This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. As you observe your garden coming back to life take some notes as to what needs to be done: moving, dividing, removing, and planning additions and improvements. If you need help with your planning, contact me for an onsite consultation.
  • Make a list of needs BEFORE going plant shopping in May so you can avoid impulse purchases that may or may not work in your garden.
  • Keep in mind if you’re adding any plants, shrubs, or trees check out natives that would be appropriate. Might as well help nature while having a beautiful garden.
  • If you have a problem with deer start your spraying as the plants they like come up. I’ve already had some munch on perennials sticking their heads out only to be chopped off.
  • Best advice BE PATIENT!! Rushing things is counterproductive.

 
Upcoming Garden Events:
 
The annual Lessons from Nature Perennial and Native Plant Sale will be Saturday, May 21 from 9-2. Clients and those receiving these tips can come at 8 and avoid the crowds.
 
Once again Ellen Foltz from Amanda’s Garden will be here with her excellent selection of natives.
 
Save the date. More details about the sale will be in the May Garden Tips.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices while saving you time and money.

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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May 2022 Plant Sale

3/31/2022

 
​Dear Gardening Friends,

The annual Lessons from Nature Perennial and Native Plant Sale will be Saturday, May 21 from 9-2. Clients and those receiving these tips can come at 8 and avoid the crowds. The sale is located at my home at 170 Pine Street in E
Aurora.

Clients and those receiving these tips can come at 8 and avoid the crowds.
Once again Ellen Foltz from Amanda’s Garden will bring her self propagated
natives.

Plants available will be listed in the May Garden Tips. Put the date on your
calendar!
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Thoughts on Spring Improvements

3/31/2022

 
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Thoughts on Spring Improvements
By: Lyn Chimera

Who doesn’t look forward to spring? It’s not just because it means the cold and snowy weather of winter is behind us. Spring’s reawakening is natures promise that life goes on. How wonderful it will be to see the first daffodils and crocus. Spring is the season for optimism.

To me spring is almost like the New Year, time to make resolutions for improvement in my gardens. Lots of us are planning what to add, remove or change. There is so much in the news about pollinator, songbird, and insect decline along with climate change why not make improvements this spring that can help alleviate these problems.

I recently attended the annual Ithaca Native Landscaping Symposium (via Zoom). The major focus of the Symposium was what the average homeowner can do to help support not just pollinators but other beneficial insects, birds, and nature in general.

The number one thing you can do is stop using insecticides/pesticides. First, there is no insecticide that only kills the bad guys. Any insect that eats that pant or gathers its pollen or nectar will be affected. Since over 90% of the insects in our gardens are beneficial just the thought of killing all insects is counterproductive. Beneficial insects not only pollinate but help control harmful insects by eating or parasitizing them. Since I stopped using pesticides, at least 30 years ago, my gardens are a buzz with beneficials, and I have very little problem with the bad guys. When the Japanese beetles arrive, I knock them into soapy water and that really helps.

Improving soil is the key to healthy plants. Chemical fertilizers, the ones you mix in water, may feed the plants but are harmful for the soil. People don’t realize it, but healthy soil is full of life from worms and bugs you can see to billions of microscopic creatures you can’t see. It’s the soil life, its decomposition and excrements, that provide nutrients for plants. Think about it…no one “feeds” the soil in the meadows and woods and those plants grow very well.

So, what can you do? Add organic matter instead of chemical fertilizers. Compost is the best way to improve your soil’s nutrition and texture.  Compost is filled with microbial life which will inoculate your soil. It’s easy to add a little to every planting hole. About 1/3 compost with 2/3 of the existing soil is a good ratio.

Compost can also be used as a mulch. It’s not necessary to work it into the soil. Simply leave it on the top as a mulch would be and nature will take care of distributing the nutrients. Compost is the best thig to add to clay soil. In fact, there is nothing in your gardens that can’t be helped by using compost. When the plants are healthier, they are more resistant to insect and disease problems.

You can make your own compost or purchase it bagged or by the yard from local nurseries. If purchasing bags read the ingredients and make sure it doesn’t contain topsoil or anything else as filler. When purchasing from a nursery ask about the ingredients. Compost should never be smelly. If it is, don’t buy it.

Leaves are another excellent soil amendment. After a few years of using compost as mulch I now just use mulched leaves that I gather in the fall. It’s the best mulch and it’s FREE!

Another important thing you can do to support nature is plant native plants. The connection between plants that evolved in our area to the beneficial insects, birds and animals that also evolved here is crucial for a productive habitat. Not only do native pants provide pollinators with the nectar they need they serve as host plants for the larva of beneficial insects including butterflies.

Don’t think you have to rip out your nonnative plants and start over. If you need a plant for a spot or are replacing one that died, look for a native that’s right for that site. Here comes the tricky part. Most “natives” found in nurseries have been hybridized for color, size, or other features to please gardeners. Often, they no longer provide the food native insects and birds need because they are sterile.

When buying a native look up the botanical name and ask for that. If there is a common name after the botanical name that means, it’s a cultivar. There are nurseries that sell the true species so ask for them. The more people request the true species the more nurseries will carry them. If you have trouble finding a plant, check online but always try local independent nurseries first.

Happy Gardening!


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March 2022 Tips

3/1/2022

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

Because of the few mild spring like days we’ve had we have to remember it is March and spring could be a long way off. This has been an unusual winter so it’s hard to know what to expect. We just must be patient and know spring WILL come eventually. The following are some ideas of what you can do now to prepare for the gardening season.

  • It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

  • Take advantage of the continuing cold weather to get your garden tools cleaned and sharpened.

  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance. If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.

  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.

  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on shovels as well as pruners. Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

  • When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)

  • Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.

  • I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

  • Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If it’s done it when the soil is very wet or still frozen the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

  • Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.

  • Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.

  • This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.

  • The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.

  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.

  • If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.


Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!

 

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.

Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz

 

Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.

 

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 12 from 9:00am – 3:00pm.  

We are excited to announce his year’s Education Day will be in person. This will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:

Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:

 Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden

Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow

Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:

Floriferous Design

The cost is, $45 for MG’s, $60 for the public. Morning break with snacks and hot buffet lunch included.
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 652-5400 ext. 176.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help with pruning, improve your garden and gardening practices and save you money!
 

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera

Lessons from Nature

170 Pine St.

E. Aurora, NY 14052

lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz

652-2432

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February 27th, 2022

2/27/2022

 
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The Amazing Bumblebee
By Lyn Chimera

Recently I was asked to compile some interesting information about bumblebees, in the genus Bombus, for an informational flyer Master Gardeners could use as a handout at various events like Plantasia (March, 16-20). They are such fascinating little critters I wanted to share some of what I learned.

First of all, Bumblebees are large (about an inch) yellow and black flying insects native to the US. They have 4 wings. The two rear wings are smaller than the front wings and the wings beat at a rate of 130-240 beats per second. There are about 46 varieties of bumblebees in N America and over 250 known varieties worldwide. 

Bumblebees are our only native bee that lives in colonies. They prefer to live in cavities like dead trees and abandoned nests. Their favorite nesting site, however, is an abandoned rodent tunnel because it’s warm and already lined with fur. Sounds cozy to me. Their colonies range in number from 50 to 500.

Bumblebees only live for one year. In the fall new queens are hatched and spend the winter in a protected area then start new colonies in the spring. Because the bumblebees don’t overwinter, they don’t need to store food. The nectar and pollen they gather goes to feed themselves and their young.

As pollinators go bumblers are much more efficient than honeybees. This is due in part to their hairy bodies which spread the pollen more effectively. They also “buzz pollinate” which means they vibrate their bodies as they come in contact with a flower to cause even more pollen distribution. One of the most interesting facts about their pollination is they leave a scent marking on each flower they pollinate. This alerts other bumblers that the flower had been pollinated so go on to another. How efficient!

The reason they are so favored by agriculture and nature is that they are generalists rather than specialists. Bumblers will gather from a variety of species at the same time. In addition, due to their built in “fur coat” they can fly and pollinate earlier in the spring and later in the fall than many other pollinating insects. They also have an amazing tongue that is often longer than a honeybee’s so they can get nectar from a wider variety of flowers. By the way their tongue is also their sense organ for taste and smell.

Worker bumblebees have the job of gathering nectar for carbohydrates and pollen for protein. They are real workhorses flying a mile or further to gather food. The average worker carries 25% of their body weight in pollen and nectar. Some have been measured to carry 75% of their body weight. That would be like a 150 pound person carrying 37.5 lbs. or up to 122 lbs.! Now that’s impressive.

I must admit I love watching bumblebees in my garden. They won’t sting unless threatened so are safe to watch form close up. Often you will find one in the early morning sleeping on a flower. Honeybees will do this as well. In my garden native turtle head (Chelone obliqua) is one of their favorite flowers. Because of the shape of the flower the bumbler has to wiggle its way into the petals to get to the pollen and nectar. Always entertaining to watch.

What can you do to help protect bumblebees and basically all pollinators? Plant a variety of native and pollinator attracting flowers covering a span of seasons and encourage neighbors to do the same. Destruction of habitat is one of the contributing factors in the demise of bumblebees. Avoid using pesticides particularly the systematic ones that persist throughout the plant. These toxins effect the whole plant including the pollen and nectar and kill all insects including pollinators. Not using pesticides and herbicides is one of the best ways any home gardener can help the ecology.

Never harm a bumblebee; they are our friends.

​​

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February 2022 Tips

2/3/2022

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

 
Looks like winter has taken hold for now. The consistent snow cover while you may not enjoy shoveling it does provide a wonderful insulating factor for your plats. For those of you longing for spring there are some great gardening events coming up. Details are at the end of this newsletter.
 
Garden Chores:
  • If you collected pine boughs for winter plant protection and there’s too much snow to put them out, just save them in the garage or a pile and put them out when the snow melts.
  • If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
  • It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
  • We’ve had a lot of wind lately so it’s a good time to pick up sticks and debris.
  • If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring.
 
Pruning:
  • This is a good time to prune. First check for wind damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
  • The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
  • Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather.
  • The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk.
  • For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.
 
Houseplants:
  • Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
  • Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
  • You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
  • Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
  • Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.
 
 
Annual Tree and Shrub Seedling Sale:
 
The Soil & Water Conservation annual seedling sale is available for ordering now. This is a great way to get inexpensive tree and shrub seedings. The sale runs through May 13th with pickup mid April-May. Order early as some things sell out. Go to their website for order forms and compete information on what’s available and how to plant seedlings.
 
https://www.ecswcd.org/html/treeshrub.html
 
Educational Opportunities: There are lots of events coming up that will help you learn and get into the mood for spring.
 
 
 
 
Annual Spring Bloom Classes:
 
Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
 
Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
 
Cost will be $20/day. For details go to http://erie.cce.cornell.edu/events
 

 
MG Education Day:
 
MGED is Saturday March 12, 2022 at Classics V Banquet Center on Niagara Falls Blvd.. At this point we are planning an in person day but that may have to change to Zoom depending on the Covid situation. Right now, there is no way to definitively plan for that.
 
Those of you who have attended in the past know what a fun and educational day this is. The day includes a fabulous basket raffle, AM snack break and a hot buffet lunch. It’s a wonderful day with likeminded gardeners. There are 2 outstanding presenters:
 
Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:
            Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden
            Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow
 
Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:
            Floriferous Design
 
Registration will begin Febuary 1st.  For details go to http://erie.cce.cornell.edu/events Trust me, you won’t want to miss this amazing and fun day.
           
 
Presentations on Gardening Topics:
 
There is a full listing of the presentations I do for Garden Clubs and other groups interested in gardening topics on my website: lessonsfromnature.biz, or let me know and I will send you a copy.
           
 
Garden Consultations:
 
If you want to tackle that pruning project but just not sure how to go about it, call me for a consultation.
 

           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 
 

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Christmas Cactus

1/3/2022

 
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By: Lyn Chimera

Christmas cactus(Schlumbergera buckleyi)is a very popular gift plant during the holidays. It’s the gift that keeps on giving as it makes an easy to care for house plant that will give years of pleasure and beautiful blooms.

This year I was given one at Thanksgiving which had more blooms and buds than I had ever seen. Usually there are 1 or maybe 2 blooms per stem but this one had up to FIVE! One bloom and the rest buds. After the first bloom flush faded there was a second flush but after that the remaining buds just dropped off. Obviously, this was an unusual Christmas cactus, so I decided to do a little research.

What an amazingly interesting plant! Most of the plants sold in stores today are hybrids of S. russelliana and S. truncata. The hybrid type determines when it will bloom. There are over 200 cultivars of these plants which give a variety of flower colors.

The other shocker was they aren’t desert cactus at all, originating in the rain forests of Brazil. They typically grow in trees like epiphytes. Who knew? Since they don’t naturally grow in arid conditions they do need to be watered, but not too much.

The two most common varieties are Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus. Thanksgiving cactus is described as having leaves shaped like crab claws with two to four pointy serrated segments on each side (which mine has). The end of each segment is slightly concave. The leaves of Christmas cactus have a more rounded, scalloped edge with a slightly curved end. Both have similar flowers that mostly bloom from the end but sometimes from a leaf join. The flowers look like 2 flowers together one, coming out of the other. A fascinating and showy bloom. Christmas cactus blooms commonly come in pink or white while the Thanksgiving variety also includes red, peach, purple, or orange.

Another surprise was these are not leaves at all but stem segments that are flattened and green to allow for photosynthesis.

Caring for your Christmas/Thanksgiving cactus is easy. Water them when the top inch of soil in the container feels dry to the touch. Soak the soil until water runs through the pot’s drainage holes; wait a few minutes; and then discard any excess water that has accumulated in the drip pan beneath the pot. Overwatering can cause root rot which is indicated by leaves turning a pinkish hue. They prefer humid conditions which is understandable originating in a rain forest. Grouping them with other plants, pebble treys and misting all can be helpful in increasing humidity. Christmas cactus like light but not direct sunlight in the summer which should burn the stems whether the plant is indoors or out.

These cacti thrive if put outdoors for the summer. A sunny spot with shelter from the direct afternoon sun is a good site. I keep mine on the screen porch where they get bright light. The other advantage of putting them outside is that the cooler temperatures in fall help encourage the blossoming response. This season they were outside until November, but it was a warm fall. When temps overnight get to mid-40s I bring them in during the warmest part of the day to avoid shock.

My 1st Christmas cactus was from a cutting my mother gave me over 40 years ago. It blooms every year and gives me great pleasure. Now I’ll have one blooming for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
​
If you want to learn more including how to propagate (which is super easy) go to:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/schlumbergera-russelliana/



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January 2022 Tips

1/3/2022

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

 
I hope you all had a wonderful Holiday season and have a HAPPY and HEALTHY New Year!! Here we go with another year. Let’s hope it’s better than the last!
 
Winter doesn’t mean that there aren’t any garden chores to do. The following are a few suggestions:
  • Believe it or not you can still plant those bulbs in the garage! As long as the ground isn’t frozen you can plant them.
  • Since there isn’t any snow cover (at least as I write this here in E Aurora) there is time to finish those fall chores you didn’t get to like bringing in plant stakes and supports. I just completed that core this week.
  • Anything else like garden art, birdbaths or pots should be brought in the garage, basement or wherever you keep things that will be damaged by winters snow and ice.
  • If you still have unplanted trees or shrubs that can be planted as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
  • Left over potted perennials can be dug into the ground or compost pile. They can also be placed together in ground cover or in the garage and covered with leaves or straw to protect from temperature fluctuations.
  • Perennial weeds can be removed if you can reach them without stepping on the soft soil. Imagine weeding in January!
  • Many of the perennials left up will get knocked over by snow or wind. That’s OK. They form a nice winter protection for the root systems.
  • Check out last month’s Garden Tips on my website (lessonsfromnature.biz) for more tips on winter protection. Since we haven’t had much snow it’s necessary to offer some added protection from temperature fluctuations AND critters.
 
Educational Opportunities: What better way to spend a winter’s day than attending a gardening class. It will help you improve your gardening and get you in the mood for spring. There are 2 excellent Master Gardener events coming up. Registration information is below.
 
Annual Spring Bloom Classes:
 
  • Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
  • Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
Cost will be $20/day. For details go to http://erie.cce.cornell.edu/events
 
MG Education Day:
 
MGED is Saturday March 12, 2022 at Classics V Banquet Center on Niagara Falls Blvd.. At this point we are planning an in person day but that may have to change to Zoom depending on the Covid situation. Right now, there is no way to definitively plan for that.
 
Those of you who have attended in the past know what a fun and educational day this is. The day includes a fabulous basket raffle, AM snack break and a hot buffet lunch. It’s a wonderful day with likeminded gardeners. There are 2 outstanding presenters:
 
Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:
            Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden
            Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow
 
Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:
            Floriferous Design
 
Registration will begin Febuary 1st. Trust me, you won’t want to miss this amazing and fun day.
           
Presentations on Gardening Topics:
 
There is a full listing of the presentations I do for Garden Clubs and other groups interested in gardening topics on my website: lessonsfromnature.biz, or let me know and I will send you a copy.
           
Winter Garden Consultations: Yes, I do winter consultations.
 
If you’re planning changes in your landscape this coming season getting an early start planning now will be helpful. Having a Garden Consultation in the winter is a good way to start. Just call me for an appointment.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
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Winter Protection

12/11/2021

 
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By: Lyn Chimera

Winter means it’s time to protect your garden for the upcoming season. Whether you have critter problems or are protecting your plants against the harsh weather conditions, a little effort now can make the difference between a healthy or dead plant come spring.

A big issue is critter control. Damage from deer, rabbits and mice can be devastating to many shrubs and trees. Your yard may wind up looking like a fortress, but preventative measures really work!

First let’s look at deer protection:
  • Fencing is the most effective way to prevent deer from making a salad bar out of your shrubs. There are many types of protective fencing available including a sturdy deer mesh that is not too visible from the street. The deer mesh is somewhat expensive but reusable for many years. All you need is some wood or metal stakes to attach the fencing. It’s very easy and works!! Just make sure you have the barrier far enough from the plant and high enough so the deer can’t reach over it. Remember they can stand up on their hind legs to eat!! Burlap or snow fencing can also be used along with shrub coats. Once you invest in a shrub coat you can use it for years.
  • Deer sprays can be affective but needs to be reapplied and are not effective in temperatures below 50. There are a few sprays available that last the whole winter however, they leave a grey, powdery coating which takes a while to wear off. It doesn’t hurt the plants, but some people don’t like the way it looks.
  • If you have young trees deer will love rubbing their antlers on the bark. You can get tree guard tubing for around the bark which prevents the rubbing. This also helps with rabbits.

Next on the damage control list are rabbits and mice.
  • Placing a cylinder of 1⁄4-inch mesh hardware cloth around the trunk. The cylinder should extend 8-10 inches on the ground to keep mice away and 18 to 24 inches above the anticipated snow line for rabbit protection. You can also use chicken wire for rabbits. They do feed in winter so having the top of the barrier well above the snow line is crucial as the rabbits can hop on top of deep snow and munch away. Hardware cloth can be left on year-round, but it must be larger than the trunk to allow for growth and removed as soon as the trunk grows enough to get close.

General winterizing:
  • The freezing winds of winter can be terribly damaging to some shrubs. Burlap and shrub coats are very effective protection. I find a pyramid shape works well with the burlap.
  • Any newly planted or tender perennials should be given an extra thick layer of mulch to help prevent the ground temperature from fluctuating. It’s the repeated freezing and thawing of the soil that causes plants to “heave” or be pushed up out of the soil. It’s important not to mulch BEFORE THE GROUND freezes, however. Mulching too soon invites small rodents who are looking for a warm spot for the winter to snuggle in.
  • I usually wait until after the holidays for this chore and cut up some pine boughs to lay over the plants and shrubs. They are easy to put down and easily removed in the spring. Discarded Christmas trees are readily available.

One last thought...Leaves are a wonderful resource. Please don’t waste them. There are lots of ways to use nature’s leaf bounty:

  • Mulch them with your lawn mower and leave them on the grass! Mulched leaves are an excellent natural fertilizer for your lawn.
  • If the leaves are too thick to leave them all on the lawn, mulched leaves are a wonderful addition to a compost pile.
  • Mulched leaves are also excellent as soil amendment in your garden beds. Just scatter the mulched leaves throughout the garden. It’s like stewing colorful confetti! Once the ground freezes you can also use them as a mulch to protect tender perennials and shrubs.
  • If you still have leaves left over, store the mulched dry leaves in garbage bags or
  • containers and use them as soil amendments and leaf mold next spring. Poke some holes in the bags to allow for heat and excess moisture to escape.
  • I also scatter mulched leaves under shrubs and into ground cover. It decomposes and is great way to fertilize. When adding mulched leaves to ground cover I just toss them over the top and gently work them in with a broom.

It all sounds like a lot of work, but it’s well worth it in the long run!

HAPPY GARDENING!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons From Nature
716-652-2432
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz

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