By: Lyn Chimera
 
Plants to cover bare soil have long been a staple of any garden. Basically, any plant that covers the ground can be used as groundcover. It doesn’t have to be low growing. Groundcover provides all sorts of benefits to a garden including less weeding, protection from soil erosion, reduction of water evaporation, softening edges, and protection of perennials from harsh winter temperature fluctuations. In addition to these benefits, ground cover is also good for the environment. By replacing some lawn with ground cover, you greatly reduce watering needs and use of herbicides along while creating a better habitat for beneficial insects. Ground covers also act as a living mulch to improve soil. Ground covers can be a beautiful addition to any garden by adding interest, texture, and beauty.
 
Pachysandra, myrtle, and ivy are the most common ground covers in our area but there are so many other options. The following are some suggestions for a variety of growing conditions. They are all deer resistant.
 
Bugle weed (Ajuga) is a fast spreading, low growing plant for sun to shade that has a lovely purple to lavender upright bloom in the spring. It comes in a variety of foliage colors from “chocolate” to variegated. Ajuga is a good choice for an area all its own. It is an aggressive spreader once established and not a good choice for between other perennials. It also works well in blooming or bee lawns.
 
Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) is an outstanding shade native for hard to grow sites. It forms dense cover with somewhat large attractive heart shaped leaves about 8-10 inches high. I have a wonderful patch under a giant Norway spruce where absolutely nothing else would grow. Better used around a tree than interspersed with other pants. Spreads well when established and would overtake a perennial bed.
 
Astilbe is a shade loving flowering plant that comes in a variety of sizes and color of bloom. Astilbe chinensis, has low growing foliage, 6 – 8 inches, with a spike of lavender bloom in late summer when not much is blooming.  It makes a great dense ground cover for the front of a border. Also makes a good lawn replacement plant. Taller varieties are good ground cover for mid to back of a bed. (see photo)
 
Gold Star (Chrysogonum virginianum) is an excellent native ground cover for sun to shade. It has deep green textured leaves with lovely yellow blooms in spring with a smaller rebloom in late summer. The whole plant stays low even in bloom. An aggressive grower that will quickly cover an area.
 
Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum) makes a lovely color and texture addition to any shade garden. It is lower growing than many ferns (about 12-16 inches) and has graceful arched fronds as opposed to the upright fronds on many ferns. The Japanese painted fern comes in a variety of color combinations including silver, burgundy and cream. It is not aggressive so can be used among other shade perennials. Prefers moist soil.
 
Bishop’s hat (Epimedium) comes in a variety of sized from 6 - 18 inches tall. The various varieties come in many colors including, white, pink, rose and yellow. It’s a perfect plant for dry shade. Epimedium blooms in spring before the leaves come up. The leaves are heart shaped, some with burgundy edges that turn all burgundy in the fall and persist during winter. Not an aggressive spreader.
Moss There are many varieties of moss that do well in moist, acidic shade. Once established it is a beautiful ground cover. It does need moisture so would need to be irrigated during dry periods. Many people try to remove moss growing in their yards. It’s nature’s way of telling you that’s what wants to grow there so relax and enjoy it! Moss gardening is one of the newest trends in Horticulture.
 
Lungwort (Pulmonaria) is a lovely spring blooming perennial that comes in a variety of bloom colors. The mottled leaves add great visual interest. It grows well in shaded areas and is not aggressive so won’t take over.

Dwarf comfrey (Symphytum grandiflorum) is a real work horse. It’s low growing deep green leaves cover ground quickly. It will do well in part sun or shade and has lovely bell like blossoms in spring. It will even bloom in dense shade under a maple but not as vigorously as when it gets a little more sun. This plant is slow to establish but spreads well once it does.
 
The plants above are just a sampling of the possibilities. With any plant you are considering, make sure it matches your growing conditions and check on its rate of spread. Many ground covers can be very aggressive which is desirable under certain conditions but not others.

Saturday, March 11
Classics V Banquet Center
Niagara Falls Blvd.
 
Three Excellent speakers:
 
Tim Boebel, Gardening with Flowering Shrubs in the North
 Tim has published two books on hydrangeas--Hydrangeas in the North (2011) and Today’s Hydrangeas (2019).

Paul Zammit, Container Gardening: Drama for Every Season
 A professor at Niagara College in Ontario and past Director of Horticulture at the Toronto Botanical Gardens.
 
Allison Morrill Chatrchyan: How Climate Change is Affecting Our Gardening
Allison is Senior Research Associate in the Department of Earth & Atmospheric Services in the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences at Cornell University.
Time: 8:30 – 3:00
Cost $60 includes Continental breakfast, hot buffet lunch and basket raffle
To register go to: erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 716-652-5400 ext. 176

By: Lyn Chimera

Many of us are trying to decide what to buy for friends and family over the holidays. A book is always appreciated and often something people don’t buy for themselves. On the subject of gardening there are books on any topic you can imagine from trees to improving soil and everything in between. The following are some recommendations.

The Living Landscape, by Doug Tallamy and Rick Darke is subtitled Designing for Beauty and Biodiversity in the Home Garden. Gardeners who want a landscape that supports nature and is beautiful at the same time will love this book.  By combining the insights of two outstanding authors, this book offers a model that anyone can follow. The book outlines the strategies for making and maintaining a diverse, layered landscape from ground level to trees. The book includes providing for outdoor rooms, areas for children and pets, incorporates fragrance and edible plants all while providing cover, shelter and sustenance for wildlife.  On top of all the excellent information the book is filled with beautiful photographs by Rick Dark who has won awards for his photography. This can be a coffee table book as well as an informational one. One of the most useful sections is at the end where they list plants by region showing growing needs and what they help in nature.

Doug Tallamy had changed the conversation about the importance of home landscaping in supporting pollinators, birds and the plants and insects they need to survive. His book Bringing Nature Home is a must read as it describes the relationship between what you plant and how it matters to nature. It also includes an extensive section showing which plants support butterflies and moths as well as a regional listing of natives that have  a benefit for wildlife.  His second book Nature’s Best Hope covers a new approach to conservation that begins in our yards. He calls it “Homegrown National Parks”. His message is you don’t have to plant all natives but if everyone planted some the overall effect would be so beneficial to nature, beneficial insects and birds.

The decline in honeybees has been in the news for years. The book Honeybee Democracy, by Thomas Seeley will give you an insightful look at the complex life of honeybees. Based on scientific studies, Seeley has written a very good and readable book about how bees operate and function as a group. We have a lot to learn from their “democratic” methods of decision making. You will never look at honeybees in the same way again.

If you’re looking for a general how to book on gardening, The Well-Tended Perennial Garden, by Tracy DiSabato-Aust is excellent. This is one of the most useful and practical books for gardeners at all levels. There are chapters on basic perennial garden planning and maintenance, pruning and an encyclopedia of perennials that includes information on how to grow and maintain each plant. The appendix includes a perennial maintenance manual and listings of month-by-month maintenance suggestions. This book also includes lots of time and work saving techniques. It’s a go to book for basic and advanced perennial gardeners.

If a book that gives detailed information on selected plants is what you’re looking for, Spring Wildflowers of the North East and  Summer Wildflowers of the North East, by Carol Gracie would be perfect. In addition to the most amazing photographs these books educate the reader about each plant, its history, uses, propagation and growing conditions along with interesting facts. There aren’t just a few paragraphs about each plant but multiple pages. Even advanced gardeners will learn from these books.

Anyone interested in trees would enjoy Finding the Mother Tree, Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest, by Suzanne Simard. This book is basically a story about her journey into the life of trees and coming to understand how they function. Simard brings us to the intimate world of trees, in which she brilliantly shows us that trees are not simply the source or timber or pulp but are a complicated circle of life. Trees in a healthy forest support each other and even communicate through underground networks. It’s fascinating and reads like a novel.

There are so many books available about gardening and nature that you’re sure to find just the right gift – for yourself or others.

  ​By: Lyn Chimera

There are so many reasons that gardening is good for you. Recently I was invited to give a presentation on the topic, and the research I did made me realize just how very many ways there are. Not only do you get beautiful flowers and/or yummy vegetables it’s great for your physical and mental wellbeing.

For me, gardening helps keep me centered. It’s very relaxing while at the same time it can be hard work which helps work out stress and frustrations. While gardening you focus on what you’re doing and forget about what’s bothering you. Even weeding can almost be meditative and it sure is satisfying once you’re finished. Another benefit is that inhaling a naturally occurring bacteria in the soil M.vaccae, can release serotonin which reduces anxiety.

Besides relieving stress, gardening is good for you in other ways. It helps build strength and flexibility. Hand strength improves from using pruners, a trowel, shovels, gripping any tools, wheelbarrow handles etc.. It’s hard to do any gardening without using your hands. Your back gets lots of exercise from bending and lifting for all sorts of chores which really helps strengthen those muscles. When my back gets a little tired from all that bending, I stand up and flex my spine back like a mini backbend then do a yoga move called scrape the barrel where you rotate your hips as if you were scraping the inside of a barrel. Both these stretches help relieve back strain and help avoid a sore back. Gardening also makes you stronger.

Hauling watering cans, hoses, digging, and all garden chores improve strength. Gardening is an excellent low impact exercise. Studies have shown that people stick with gardening much more than they stick to going to a gym and you don’t have a monthly fee! General gardening can burn 330 calories per hour. It would be more for more strenuous garden work like mowing (not a riding mower), digging, raking etc..

While outside gardening you are exposed to vitamin D through sunshine. Vitamin D helps increase
calcium and makes bone stronger. It also boosts your immune system. However, don’t forget to use
sunscreen. Another benefit of gardening is it gets you outside and away from electronics and screens. This relieves eye strain and gives your brain a rest. Try trading your blackberry for blackberry bushes!

Growing fruits and vegetables dramatically improves your diet. Fresh produce is much more nutritious and healthier for you. You can control and hopefully eliminate the pesticide and herbicide use. Besides it tastes much better. People who grow vegetables tend to include more vegetables in their diet which is another benefit to your health. Children involved with growing food are much more willing to try things and will eat vegetables they might not ordinarily.

If you happen to have back and or knee problems, you can still enjoy gardening. Raised beds, some can be as tall as tables, allow you to garden with little to no bending. Planters and even window boxes can be used to grow food or flowers. Knee pads or movable foam pads are very helpful for sore knees. I’ve used both and preferred knee pads that wrap around your knees. That way you don’t have to move the foam pad from place to place. Bench seats are also available. Some are 2-sided, one side for a kneeling pad and when it's turned over it becomes a raised seat. The legs form a bar for helping you get up.

Therapeutic gardens have been used for centuries. The original Richardson Complex on Elmwood Ave in Buffalo was an asylum for people with mental problems. Working outside in vegetable and flower gardens was part of everyone’s therapy. Many prisons have gardens where prisoners can learn skills that could be turned into employment once released. These gardens also help calm prisoners and generally improve their behavior. My mother was in a nursing home where they had a courtyard garden which gave her hours of pleasure. She didn’t remember a lot but once in the garden she knew what to do. It was amazing to watch.

Don’t worry if you have no access to a garden, just being outside in nature can improve your mood,
health, and wellbeing. So let nature help you relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.

By: Lyn Chimera

For those of you, like myself, who have been waiting all winter for July when we can visit some of the best gardens in the country, the wait is over. The month of July in Western New Yok is all about gardens and gardening.

The gardening events begin in June with the Lewiston Gardenfest, 6/18&19 and The Buffalo Style Garden Art Sale at the Botanical Gardens 6/25&26. However, it’s the month of July that is packed full of garden visit opportunities.

The best way to learn about all the events is to get the booklet, Open Gardens, published by Gardens Buffalo Niagara. It is available at many nurseries and the low cost of $10. Check out their website for full details: https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/

​Some tips for any of the garden visits:

Wear comfortable shoes and dress for the weather. Some gardens have stone walkways, paths with roots or other difficult walking situations. Also, grass may be wet and slippery. The gardens are open rain or shine so plan to dress appropriately.

Take your camera/cell phone to take pictures. After seeing many gardens you’ll want to remember some of the pants you liked, landscaping ideas, garden art etc. Trust me, after seeing 8-10 gardens it’s hard to remember where you saw what or what it was.

Don’t be hesitant to talk to the owners and ask questions. You’ll be seeing some plants you might not recognize or wonder how much work is involved in their garden, how long did it take to develop, helpful tips etc..

Be mindful of people’s property and stay on paths or designated areas. It’s easy to be distracted by a beautiful plant or whatever and step where you shouldn’t.

Your garden touring experience will be much more enjoyable if you plan a strategy. Get the Open Gardens booklet or download maps from the website to plan your route. Don’t forget to plan a lunch break or shopping jaunt. It’s a delightful way to spend a day with like minded gardening fiends. I guarantee you will get some good ideas. Hope to see you soon!

Thoughts on Spring Improvements
By: Lyn Chimera

Who doesn’t look forward to spring? It’s not just because it means the cold and snowy weather of winter is behind us. Spring’s reawakening is natures promise that life goes on. How wonderful it will be to see the first daffodils and crocus. Spring is the season for optimism.

To me spring is almost like the New Year, time to make resolutions for improvement in my gardens. Lots of us are planning what to add, remove or change. There is so much in the news about pollinator, songbird, and insect decline along with climate change why not make improvements this spring that can help alleviate these problems.

I recently attended the annual Ithaca Native Landscaping Symposium (via Zoom). The major focus of the Symposium was what the average homeowner can do to help support not just pollinators but other beneficial insects, birds, and nature in general.

The number one thing you can do is stop using insecticides/pesticides. First, there is no insecticide that only kills the bad guys. Any insect that eats that pant or gathers its pollen or nectar will be affected. Since over 90% of the insects in our gardens are beneficial just the thought of killing all insects is counterproductive. Beneficial insects not only pollinate but help control harmful insects by eating or parasitizing them. Since I stopped using pesticides, at least 30 years ago, my gardens are a buzz with beneficials, and I have very little problem with the bad guys. When the Japanese beetles arrive, I knock them into soapy water and that really helps.

Improving soil is the key to healthy plants. Chemical fertilizers, the ones you mix in water, may feed the plants but are harmful for the soil. People don’t realize it, but healthy soil is full of life from worms and bugs you can see to billions of microscopic creatures you can’t see. It’s the soil life, its decomposition and excrements, that provide nutrients for plants. Think about it…no one “feeds” the soil in the meadows and woods and those plants grow very well.

So, what can you do? Add organic matter instead of chemical fertilizers. Compost is the best way to improve your soil’s nutrition and texture.  Compost is filled with microbial life which will inoculate your soil. It’s easy to add a little to every planting hole. About 1/3 compost with 2/3 of the existing soil is a good ratio.

Compost can also be used as a mulch. It’s not necessary to work it into the soil. Simply leave it on the top as a mulch would be and nature will take care of distributing the nutrients. Compost is the best thig to add to clay soil. In fact, there is nothing in your gardens that can’t be helped by using compost. When the plants are healthier, they are more resistant to insect and disease problems.

You can make your own compost or purchase it bagged or by the yard from local nurseries. If purchasing bags read the ingredients and make sure it doesn’t contain topsoil or anything else as filler. When purchasing from a nursery ask about the ingredients. Compost should never be smelly. If it is, don’t buy it.

Leaves are another excellent soil amendment. After a few years of using compost as mulch I now just use mulched leaves that I gather in the fall. It’s the best mulch and it’s FREE!

Another important thing you can do to support nature is plant native plants. The connection between plants that evolved in our area to the beneficial insects, birds and animals that also evolved here is crucial for a productive habitat. Not only do native pants provide pollinators with the nectar they need they serve as host plants for the larva of beneficial insects including butterflies.

Don’t think you have to rip out your nonnative plants and start over. If you need a plant for a spot or are replacing one that died, look for a native that’s right for that site. Here comes the tricky part. Most “natives” found in nurseries have been hybridized for color, size, or other features to please gardeners. Often, they no longer provide the food native insects and birds need because they are sterile.

When buying a native look up the botanical name and ask for that. If there is a common name after the botanical name that means, it’s a cultivar. There are nurseries that sell the true species so ask for them. The more people request the true species the more nurseries will carry them. If you have trouble finding a plant, check online but always try local independent nurseries first.

Happy Gardening!

The Amazing Bumblebee
By Lyn Chimera

Recently I was asked to compile some interesting information about bumblebees, in the genus Bombus, for an informational flyer Master Gardeners could use as a handout at various events like Plantasia (March, 16-20). They are such fascinating little critters I wanted to share some of what I learned.

First of all, Bumblebees are large (about an inch) yellow and black flying insects native to the US. They have 4 wings. The two rear wings are smaller than the front wings and the wings beat at a rate of 130-240 beats per second. There are about 46 varieties of bumblebees in N America and over 250 known varieties worldwide. 

Bumblebees are our only native bee that lives in colonies. They prefer to live in cavities like dead trees and abandoned nests. Their favorite nesting site, however, is an abandoned rodent tunnel because it’s warm and already lined with fur. Sounds cozy to me. Their colonies range in number from 50 to 500.

Bumblebees only live for one year. In the fall new queens are hatched and spend the winter in a protected area then start new colonies in the spring. Because the bumblebees don’t overwinter, they don’t need to store food. The nectar and pollen they gather goes to feed themselves and their young.

As pollinators go bumblers are much more efficient than honeybees. This is due in part to their hairy bodies which spread the pollen more effectively. They also “buzz pollinate” which means they vibrate their bodies as they come in contact with a flower to cause even more pollen distribution. One of the most interesting facts about their pollination is they leave a scent marking on each flower they pollinate. This alerts other bumblers that the flower had been pollinated so go on to another. How efficient!

The reason they are so favored by agriculture and nature is that they are generalists rather than specialists. Bumblers will gather from a variety of species at the same time. In addition, due to their built in “fur coat” they can fly and pollinate earlier in the spring and later in the fall than many other pollinating insects. They also have an amazing tongue that is often longer than a honeybee’s so they can get nectar from a wider variety of flowers. By the way their tongue is also their sense organ for taste and smell.

Worker bumblebees have the job of gathering nectar for carbohydrates and pollen for protein. They are real workhorses flying a mile or further to gather food. The average worker carries 25% of their body weight in pollen and nectar. Some have been measured to carry 75% of their body weight. That would be like a 150 pound person carrying 37.5 lbs. or up to 122 lbs.! Now that’s impressive.

I must admit I love watching bumblebees in my garden. They won’t sting unless threatened so are safe to watch form close up. Often you will find one in the early morning sleeping on a flower. Honeybees will do this as well. In my garden native turtle head (Chelone obliqua) is one of their favorite flowers. Because of the shape of the flower the bumbler has to wiggle its way into the petals to get to the pollen and nectar. Always entertaining to watch.

What can you do to help protect bumblebees and basically all pollinators? Plant a variety of native and pollinator attracting flowers covering a span of seasons and encourage neighbors to do the same. Destruction of habitat is one of the contributing factors in the demise of bumblebees. Avoid using pesticides particularly the systematic ones that persist throughout the plant. These toxins effect the whole plant including the pollen and nectar and kill all insects including pollinators. Not using pesticides and herbicides is one of the best ways any home gardener can help the ecology.

Never harm a bumblebee; they are our friends.

​​

By: Lyn Chimera

Christmas cactus(Schlumbergera buckleyi)is a very popular gift plant during the holidays. It’s the gift that keeps on giving as it makes an easy to care for house plant that will give years of pleasure and beautiful blooms.

This year I was given one at Thanksgiving which had more blooms and buds than I had ever seen. Usually there are 1 or maybe 2 blooms per stem but this one had up to FIVE! One bloom and the rest buds. After the first bloom flush faded there was a second flush but after that the remaining buds just dropped off. Obviously, this was an unusual Christmas cactus, so I decided to do a little research.

What an amazingly interesting plant! Most of the plants sold in stores today are hybrids of S. russelliana and S. truncata. The hybrid type determines when it will bloom. There are over 200 cultivars of these plants which give a variety of flower colors.

The other shocker was they aren’t desert cactus at all, originating in the rain forests of Brazil. They typically grow in trees like epiphytes. Who knew? Since they don’t naturally grow in arid conditions they do need to be watered, but not too much.

The two most common varieties are Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus. Thanksgiving cactus is described as having leaves shaped like crab claws with two to four pointy serrated segments on each side (which mine has). The end of each segment is slightly concave. The leaves of Christmas cactus have a more rounded, scalloped edge with a slightly curved end. Both have similar flowers that mostly bloom from the end but sometimes from a leaf join. The flowers look like 2 flowers together one, coming out of the other. A fascinating and showy bloom. Christmas cactus blooms commonly come in pink or white while the Thanksgiving variety also includes red, peach, purple, or orange.

Another surprise was these are not leaves at all but stem segments that are flattened and green to allow for photosynthesis.

Caring for your Christmas/Thanksgiving cactus is easy. Water them when the top inch of soil in the container feels dry to the touch. Soak the soil until water runs through the pot’s drainage holes; wait a few minutes; and then discard any excess water that has accumulated in the drip pan beneath the pot. Overwatering can cause root rot which is indicated by leaves turning a pinkish hue. They prefer humid conditions which is understandable originating in a rain forest. Grouping them with other plants, pebble treys and misting all can be helpful in increasing humidity. Christmas cactus like light but not direct sunlight in the summer which should burn the stems whether the plant is indoors or out.

These cacti thrive if put outdoors for the summer. A sunny spot with shelter from the direct afternoon sun is a good site. I keep mine on the screen porch where they get bright light. The other advantage of putting them outside is that the cooler temperatures in fall help encourage the blossoming response. This season they were outside until November, but it was a warm fall. When temps overnight get to mid-40s I bring them in during the warmest part of the day to avoid shock.

My 1st Christmas cactus was from a cutting my mother gave me over 40 years ago. It blooms every year and gives me great pleasure. Now I’ll have one blooming for Thanksgiving and Christmas.
​
If you want to learn more including how to propagate (which is super easy) go to:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/schlumbergera-russelliana/

By: Lyn Chimera

Winter means it’s time to protect your garden for the upcoming season. Whether you have critter problems or are protecting your plants against the harsh weather conditions, a little effort now can make the difference between a healthy or dead plant come spring.

A big issue is critter control. Damage from deer, rabbits and mice can be devastating to many shrubs and trees. Your yard may wind up looking like a fortress, but preventative measures really work!

First let’s look at deer protection:

• Fencing is the most effective way to prevent deer from making a salad bar out of your shrubs. There are many types of protective fencing available including a sturdy deer mesh that is not too visible from the street. The deer mesh is somewhat expensive but reusable for many years. All you need is some wood or metal stakes to attach the fencing. It’s very easy and works!! Just make sure you have the barrier far enough from the plant and high enough so the deer can’t reach over it. Remember they can stand up on their hind legs to eat!! Burlap or snow fencing can also be used along with shrub coats. Once you invest in a shrub coat you can use it for years.
• Deer sprays can be affective but needs to be reapplied and are not effective in temperatures below 50. There are a few sprays available that last the whole winter however, they leave a grey, powdery coating which takes a while to wear off. It doesn’t hurt the plants, but some people don’t like the way it looks.
• If you have young trees deer will love rubbing their antlers on the bark. You can get tree guard tubing for around the bark which prevents the rubbing. This also helps with rabbits.

Next on the damage control list are rabbits and mice.

• Placing a cylinder of 1⁄4-inch mesh hardware cloth around the trunk. The cylinder should extend 8-10 inches on the ground to keep mice away and 18 to 24 inches above the anticipated snow line for rabbit protection. You can also use chicken wire for rabbits. They do feed in winter so having the top of the barrier well above the snow line is crucial as the rabbits can hop on top of deep snow and munch away. Hardware cloth can be left on year-round, but it must be larger than the trunk to allow for growth and removed as soon as the trunk grows enough to get close.

General winterizing:

• The freezing winds of winter can be terribly damaging to some shrubs. Burlap and shrub coats are very effective protection. I find a pyramid shape works well with the burlap.
• Any newly planted or tender perennials should be given an extra thick layer of mulch to help prevent the ground temperature from fluctuating. It’s the repeated freezing and thawing of the soil that causes plants to “heave” or be pushed up out of the soil. It’s important not to mulch BEFORE THE GROUND freezes, however. Mulching too soon invites small rodents who are looking for a warm spot for the winter to snuggle in.
• I usually wait until after the holidays for this chore and cut up some pine boughs to lay over the plants and shrubs. They are easy to put down and easily removed in the spring. Discarded Christmas trees are readily available.

One last thought...Leaves are a wonderful resource. Please don’t waste them. There are lots of ways to use nature’s leaf bounty:

• Mulch them with your lawn mower and leave them on the grass! Mulched leaves are an excellent natural fertilizer for your lawn.
• If the leaves are too thick to leave them all on the lawn, mulched leaves are a wonderful addition to a compost pile.
• Mulched leaves are also excellent as soil amendment in your garden beds. Just scatter the mulched leaves throughout the garden. It’s like stewing colorful confetti! Once the ground freezes you can also use them as a mulch to protect tender perennials and shrubs.
• If you still have leaves left over, store the mulched dry leaves in garbage bags or
• containers and use them as soil amendments and leaf mold next spring. Poke some holes in the bags to allow for heat and excess moisture to escape.
• I also scatter mulched leaves under shrubs and into ground cover. It decomposes and is great way to fertilize. When adding mulched leaves to ground cover I just toss them over the top and gently work them in with a broom.

It all sounds like a lot of work, but it’s well worth it in the long run!

HAPPY GARDENING!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons From Nature
716-652-2432
[email protected]

 By Lyn Chimera

One of the things I do as a Master Gardener is man the Hotline to answer people’s gardening questions. In the past month we have had many calls about Maple leaves with black spots, maple leaves dropping early and people spotting the Killer Hornet. Here is some information on both issues.

Tar spot on Maples.
Info adapted from the Cornell fact sheet.
​
WNY is experiencing an increase in tar spot this season. There are actually several different fungi in the genus Rhytisma that infect the leaves of maples and cause raised, black spots to form on upper leaf surfaces. (see photo) The diseases are called "tar spots" because their appearance so closely resemble droplets of tar on leaf surfaces. Tar spot alone is rarely serious enough to threaten the health of trees, but sometimes there can be so many spots that the tree becomes unsightly. Heavy infections can also cause early leaf drop, a condition that causes homeowners to have to rake before autumn officially arrives. Norway maples are not native and brought the fungus with them when they came from Norway. It is a common street tree because it can withstand the stress of growing in less than optimum conditions. Norway maples are not the only trees affected by the fungi in the genus Rhytisma. Tar spot also infects silver, sugar, and red maple as well as their relative, box elder.

For more info on Tar Spot: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/tarspotofmaple.pdf

The best way to control is to rake up and remove all infected leaves. Spraying of fungicide is not
recommended since tar spot doesn’t severely harm trees and the fungal spores travel in the air. You would have to spray the whole neighborhood to make a difference. If you want to plant a tree it’s always best to choose a native that is suited to our area and your site.
Note: If maple leaves crinkle and turn brown in June or July, another common disease of maple may be present. Refer to the Cornell fact sheet on Anthracnose of Trees and Shrubs for more information.

plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/anthracnoseoftrees.pdf

By: Lyn Chimera

Whether you live in the city, suburbs or in a rural area, lawns are a big part of the landscape. People have treated lawns as a status symbol for centuries. The movement began in Europe where having a manicured lawn was only available to the wealthy who could afford the workforce to keep it looking good.

Unfortunately having that perfectly manicured lawn is still a status symbol for many people. They want their lawn to look like a golf course. Anyone who has tried to have that perfect lawn realizes what a lot of work it is to keep it that way. Not only is it time consuming but costly as well. There’s the lawn mower which needs gas and yearly maintenance, fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides which are not only tough on the pocketbook but very hard on the environment
Let’s look at a few facts. Lawns across America use about 9 BILLION gallons of water a DAY! That’s the main reason during the drought out west watering lawns has been banned. The EPA reports that 50% of that water is wasted through evaporation and run off. According to 1971 NASA report lawns take up 3 times as much space as the next irrigated crop, corn. On top of that around 90 million pounds of fertilizers and about 75 million pounds of pesticides are used per year.
Just why do we have all this lawn? What do we actually use it for? Some turf is productive like athletic fields, golf courses and recreational areas. We have to ask ourselves if this is the best use of our landscape space.

There has been much written about habitat loss and the reduction of much needed pollinators, birds and other forms of life. Lawn doesn’t support any of that. Nature needs our help and that’s why so many people are reducing their lawn and developing more sustainable landscaping. This movement has been dubbed “unlawning”. There are many ways to reduce your lawn and have that space contribute to nature.

One of the fastest growing ways to reduce lawn is to grow vegetables, fruit trees and berries. Many people have vegetable gardens in their back yards, but front yard gardens are gaining in popularity. Often the front or side yard is the only place that has enough sun to support growing food crops. Growing some of your own food not only enables your garden to be productive for nature but provides your family with fresh pesticide free fruits and vegetables. Fruits and vegetables need pollinators so you’re supporting nature.

There are many ways to incorporate food crops; raised beds, in ground garden, containers or interspersed among your perennials. Meanwhile you won’t have so much lawn to take care of.
Another option for unlawning is to transform some of the lawn space to meadow or pollinator gardens. This doesn’t mean you have to have an unkept field in your front yard. A section of lawn could be parceled out to be a pollinator garden/meadow. These sections could be shaped and mowed around to make it look more purposeful. The same effect can happen with wide mowed paths through the area. Organizing like species of plants rather than a general mixture also makes the meadow look more organized and like a garden if that is the look you prefer. Using native plants that support nature are the most effective plants to replace some lawn. They are beautiful and are the easiest way homeowners can help support nature and be sustainable. For ideas on how this might look check out: https://unlawningamerica.societyrne.net/unlawning-strategies.html

I’m not trying to suggest everyone eliminate their lawns. Rather rethink areas that you don’t use that might be more sustainable for your families and nature. If you don’t want to reduce the amount of lawn, at least consider not using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Lawns will do just fine without them. Also you don’t have to water the lawn. Grasses naturally go dormant when it’s dry. They will green up with the first rain.


Happy Gardening!

By: Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature

Would you like to have a healthier lawn and help the environment at the same time? The Safe Home for The Gnomes project is for you.

The Erie County Environmental Management Council (EMC) is an advisory board to the Erie County Department of Environment & Planning. Council members advise county government on local environmental concerns; and provide a liaison between the community and county government.

Reducing the overuse and misuse of chemicals in Erie County is a priority concern for the EMC. Launched in 2017, Safe Home for The Gnomes is a campaign to reduce the use of lawn chemicals. Homeowners pledge to maintain a pesticide-free lawn that is safe for children, pets and pollinators and receive a free lawn sign to let their neighbors know that their lawn is healthy and safe.

Garden chemicals when overused or misused can be harmful to humans, pets, wildlife and waterbodies. Collectively, residents control about 900,000 acres of lawn in New York alone - 75% of the managed turf in the state. The good news is there are many ways to care for your lawn that avoid putting family and neighbors at risk. 

Ten EMC tips for a healthy pesticide free lawn:

1.  Say no to pesticides – Make sure the products you choose are pesticide free - read the label - if the product says it’s a hazard to humans or the environment, it’s best to avoid it.
2.  Check your soil - Get a soil pH test. Kits can be found at garden centers or you can contact the Cornell Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners for info on how to get a test (652-5400, ext. 137).
3.  Know what feeds your weeds – Different weeds prefer different soil conditions. Use your soil test to make conditions favorable to lawn and unfavorable to weeds.
4.  Feed your lawn only lightly – Use slow-release fertilizers like compost or organic fertilizers. Fall, not spring, is the best time to feed.
5.  Plant a variety of grasses – Mixtures grow better in different sun, shade and traffic conditions. Fall is the best time to overseed bear patches.
6. 6.    Don’t cut grass too short, mow high – 3 inches or higher will help the grass outcompete weeds and better withstand drought and is more resistant to pests and disease. Also leave clippings on the lawn, it’s natures fertilizer.
7.  Water less often but deeply – You may not need to water at all. Grass naturally goes dormant with drought and greens up when the rain returns. If you do water,  water deeply (down to the roots) about 1 inch/week.
8.  Aerate to open the soil surface – Over time the soil under grass can become compacted and may become crowded with a layer of thatch. Thatch looks like a thick layer of brown roots above the soil level. In lawns with a thatch layer of more than 1/2-inch core aeration in late summer is recommended.
9.  Eliminate grubs with nematodes – Lawn grubs are rare in a healthy lawn but if you have more than 10/square foot you can treat with beneficial nematodes. These are naturally occurring microscopic worms that are not harmful to humans or pets but eat grubs. They are available at garden centers in a powder form which is mixed with water.
10.  If you use a lawn service make sure their treatments are pesticide free – More lawn and landscape companies are offering natural, chemical free treatments. Ask the company t to explain their methods and check references.

Having a pesticide free lawn will save you time AND money as well as eliminate harmful effects on the environment. For more information about Safe Home for the Gnome and managing a pesticide free landscape please visit the Healthy Lawns page at: ERIE.GOV/HEALTHYLAWNS.

NOTE: Our Native Plant and Perennial Sale will be Saturday, May 22, 9-2. Between Amanda’s Garden and Lessons from Nature we will have the largest selection of native plants in WNY along with a good selection of perennials for sun to shade. A GREAT place to get healthy plants at a reasonable price.

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Annual native and perennial plant sale
Saturday, May 22, 9-2
170 Pine Street, E Aurora

Most of us have heard about mulch but just what is it and why should you use it? First of all mulch is basically any material used to cover the bare surface of the soil. Nature has been mulching itself forever. Tree leaves and plants at the end of the season decompose on site and provide soil cover and nutrients for the next season. We have created controlled habitats in our gardens and have to provide this necessary process.

​There are multiple reasons to use mulch. The most common one people think of is to prevent weeds from growing. Who likes to spend the summer weeding?! However, other reasons are just as important if not more so; helping the soil retain moisture so you don’t have to water as much, keep the soil cooler which also cuts down on water evaporation and helps prevent cracking during dry periods, protect the soil from heavy rains and erosion, cut down on soil splashing up on the plants and lastly it gives the garden a finished look.

The two main types of mulch are organic and inorganic. Organic simply means it’s made from plant or animal materials that have been ground or composted. Organic mulches will eventually decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Inorganic mulches include stone and plastic sheeting and have no value for the soil.

Organic mulches are the best to use because along with all the ways they help your garden mentioned above they will also help improve the fertility of the soil as well as the structure of the soil making it easier for the roots to grow and easier for you to dig. As the organic mulch decomposes during the season it adds life to the soil through microorganisms. It’s these microorganisms that feed the plants. Most organic mulch consists of items like composted animal manure, leaves, straw, ground wood, sludge and yard and kitchen waste.

Some of the most common mulches are made from chipped or ground wood, bark and branches. This is usually referred to as wood chips or bark mulch. In my opinion the large wood chip mulch is not the best option. It decomposes very slowly and adds little nutrient value to the soil. After a season or two it turns grey and the recommendation is to remove it and add fresh. Seems like a lot of expense and energy for mulch that is not that good at keeping weeds down.

Triple ground wood mulch is a much better option. You will pay more but it’s more effective at weed control and will add nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. Cedar mulch has become popular because of the color however the cedars are being harvested from cedar bogs in the south at a frightening rate. For this reason alone I don’t recommend using it.

Compost is a very affective mulch especially if you have “dirt” instead of good soil. Adding compost is the most effective way of improving your soil. When I started gardening my soil was heavy clay and almost impossible to dig. I mulched with compost for quite a few years and it made a huge difference. You can make your own or buy it by the bag or yard delivered to your driveway. A mixture of triple ground wood mulch and compost is ideal and available at many nurseries.

Mulched leaves are an ideal and FREE mulch. To use as mulch the leaves have to be ground up using a mulching lawn mower. I collect mulched leaves people discard at the curb in the fall and bag them for later use. They make a light weight (no back breaking shoveling of heavy mulch) excellent mulch. I use mulched leaves exclusively now except for one bed in the front which gets a lot of wind.

Mulches to avoid are the non-organic varieties. Stone mulch is not recommended. It’s heavy, expensive, doesn’t improve the soil, increases watering needs and is an ineffective weed barrier. It also absorbs heat which can be harmful to some plants and causes the water in the soil to evaporate faster. Plastic garden or weed barrier is also a very poor choice. You need to cover it with mulch to hold it down and it tends to migrate and show up above the soil after a while. Plastic weed cloth is also very hard to plant through and when weeds do show up are hard to remove.
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Bottom line… use an organic mulch that includes some compost. It will make your gardening much easier and improve the soil at the same time. A win/win situation!

There’s nothing that says Fall like seeing pumpkins everywhere. Putting one on your front stoop makes an instant decoration and it carries you all the way through November. How good is that!?

Pumpkin History:

Pumpkins originated in the Americas where their use goes back thousands of years.  Seeds from related plants have been found in Mexico dating back to 7,000 to 5,500 BC! Native Americans used pumpkins as a staple in their diet, as well as medicinally, centuries before the Pilgrims landed. When white settlers arrived, they learned to use pumpkins from the Native Peoples.

The name “pumpkin” has a long history. Native Americans called it “isquotersquash”. The first word for pumpkin given by early explorers was “pepon” which was latin for large melon. The French changed it to “pompon” and the English to “pumpion”. It was the American Colonists who changed “pumpion” to “pumpkin”. It’s been pumpkin ever since.

The tradition of carving scary faces in pumpkins goes back hundreds of years. It began with an Irish myth about a man named “Stingy Jack”. Originally, scary faces were carved into turnips and potatoes to frighten away Scary Jack and other evil spirits. Immigrants coming to the US found pumpkins were a much better medium for carving. Thus, the Jack-O-Lantern became part of our Halloween traditions.

Pumpkin Uses:

We usually think of using pumpkin for decoration or jack-o-lanterns, but it’s a wonderful and nutritious food loaded with an important antioxidant, beta-carotene. It also contains potassium and Vitamin A along with numerous other vitamins, minerals and fiber. Pumpkin pulp is used for everything from soups to breads, and of course, pumpkin pie. Don’t forget the seeds, they’re easy to roast and make a nutritious snack.
Native Americans dried strips of pumpkin rind and wove them into mats as well as eating the pulp. Today pumpkins are also used as containers for pumpkin soup and floral arrangements.

Selecting a Pumpkin:

For cooking pumpkins, the best selection is a “pie pumpkin” or “sweet pumpkin”. They are smaller than the carving pumpkins and the flesh is sweeter and less watery. You can use the Jack-o-Lantern variety, but whatever you make will have a better flavor with pie pumpkins.

No matter what type of pumpkin you buy look for one with 2 or 3 inches of healthy stem.  Stay away from ones with soft spots or blemishes. When using a fresh pumpkin for puree, one pound of raw, untrimmed pumpkin is the equivalent of one cup of finished pumpkin puree.

Saving Seeds:

It’s really fun and easy to save the seeds from a pumpkin to plant next spring (A great project with children and grandchildren).

• Separate the seeds from the pulp and rinse and drain in a colander. Dry the seeds with a paper towel. Seeds will stick to the paper towel as they dry so it’s best to transfer them to waxed paper to dry overnight. After the seeds are dry, line a baking sheet with paper towels and place the pumpkin seeds in a single layer. Place the baking sheet with pumpkin seeds in a cool, dry place to continue to dry for four to six weeks. The dried seeds can then be stored in a sealed plastic bag or glass jar. When ready to plant, soak the seeds overnight for faster germination.

Interesting Pumpkin Facts:
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• The first pumpkin pie was made by the early colonists who used the pumpkin for the crust! The inside was filled with milk, honey and spices and baked in hot ashes.
• Pumpkin is technically a fruit because the seeds are inside like an apple or orange.
• Pumpkins are grown primarily for processing into puree (Just a small percentage are grown for ornamental purposes).
• Pumpkins range in size from less than a pound to over 1,500 pounds!
• Pumpkins are 90% water.

​Today pumpkins come in many sizes, shapes and even colors. Check out your local farmers market or farm stand for some of the more unusual varieties.

Trillium is one of the first spring natives to bloom and probably one of the most well-known native plants. Its beautiful image is used on many logos, advertisements, and artwork.
Trillium is one of the few plants that have the same common and botanical name. “Tri” means 3 and that is the key to identifying trillium. All of its parts are in 3’s or multiple of 3’s; leaves petals, sepals, stamens, stigmas, even the ovary has 3 compartments. There are over 45 varieties of trillium in the US, and 37 of those are native to the northeast.
Many people think that trillium is a bulb but it actually grows from a rhizome. Each year of growth is visible on the rhizome as a shrunken segment called a constriction, rather like rings in a tree, and can be used to approximate the age of the plant. The oldest one identified was over 70 years old! The rhizomes have specialized roots that pull the plant deeper into the ground. Each rhizome typically produces only one stem and flower however some mature ones can have two even three.
Seeds develop slowly taking 2 years to show above ground and up to 7-8 years to produce a flower and seed. This is one of the reasons they are so expensive to purchase and why illegal digging is such a big business. I have read that the trillium rhizomes available in pouches at big box stores are all dug illegally which is why they can be offered for such low prices. A nursery has to commit a lot of time and energy to produce a blooming trillium for sale. If you are purchasing a trillium ask where it was grown and stay away from inexpensive offerings.
Trillium are herbaceous perennials that grow in deciduous forests. They bloom in early May, just when the tree leaves are opening. Their 3 leaves grow horizontally out from the stem to capture the most light in the shaded forest.
If you have a moist deciduous shade area with a good layer of leaf mold they do well in home gardens. Since this is an endangered species in NYS it is illegal to dig from the wild. The 2 that are most common to find in nurseries are:
Trillium grandiflorum – the classic white variety that used to blanket our woods. The white blossom fades to a light pink which many mistakenly think is a different variety. They grow 8 to 16 inches tall and will spread through seeds. This variety prefers a moist, slightly acidic loamy soil.
Trillium erectum – purple trillium is also common in our woods but not near as frequent as the white. It also prefers moist slightly acidic soil with lots of leaf mold. Purple trillium is slightly shorter than the white variety, 6 to 12 inches.
One species I’m fond of but is a little harder to find is Trillium luteum. It has an upright yellow flower that does not open like the other trilliums mentioned. It also has showy mottled leaves which adds interest to the shade garden.
Trillium is endangered for a few reasons. Deer are the biggest problem as they find it extra yummy. People picking the flowers and digging from the woods as well as habitat loss are also causes. If you have the right conditions planting a few trillium will help preserve out native biodiversity. Give this amazing native plant a chance.

I recently attended “Don’t Get Ticked” an informational program about ticks, conducted by Lynn Braband who heads the NYSIPM (Integrated Pest Management) program from Cornell. He covered the myths and facts. It was fascinating and scary at the same time. I for one don’t take tick protection seriously enough but will from now on. Lyme is now the most common vector born disease in the US so it needs to be taken seriously.
Ticks have 8 legs so are not bugs but related to spiders and mites. There are 3 types of ticks in our area:

• American dog tick which carries Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and prefers grasslands
• Black legged tick (deer tick) which carries Lyme disease and prefers woods and wood edges
• Lone star tick – migrating on birds as our climate warms prefers dry areas

All these ticks spread a variety of diseases but it is just the deer tick that carries Lyme.

Ticks hitch a ride on people and animals through an “ambush” technique. They can’t jump, fly or drop from trees so rely on grabbing on to you as you pass by. A tick will crawl to the end of a leaf or blade of grass from ground level to 1 ½ feet off the ground, hold on with their back legs and reach forward with their front 2 elongated legs to grab a hold on whatever passes by. Walking in the middle of paths so you don’t brush up against vegetation is a good way to avoid these hitch hikers. Long pants tucked into socks is another good method. Lynn suggested putting all clothing in a dryer on high as soon as you come in. The heat will kill the ticks. Spraying with DEET is most effective of the insecticides for ticks. He also recommended taking a shower within ½ hr. after coming in. This can possibly wash off ticks as well as give you the opportunity to check yourself.
If you do get a tick on you the most important thing about removing it is NOT to squeeze the body or head. That just forces more of their fluids into you. Use a very thin tweezer and place it between the head and your skin. Pull gently. There is also a tick removal device available at drugstores. If you want to check the tick for Lime disease put in a container in the freezer or drop it in a container with alcohol or hand sanitizer to kill it. Then take the tick to your doctor or the County Health Dept.
Some interesting facts:

• Deer are just a location for ticks to reproduce, they don’t carry Lyme Disease
• June and July are the highest months for tick activity although they can be active all year any day it’s above 40.
• Tick larva don’t carry Lyme. They have to take a blood meal on an infected host.
• Deer mice are not the only host animal. Chipmunks, squirrels and other small mammals can be the vectors.
• Most ticks have a 2 year life cycle.
• Wearing light colored clothes makes them easier to spot.
• A tick does NOT have to be on you for 36 hours for you to become infected. The longer it’s on you the higher your chance of getting Lyme.
• Ticks inject a numbing agent so you can’t feel them bite.
• To check if you have ticks in your yard drag a 2ft. X 3ft. piece of white flannel or corduroy across the area then check it for ticks.

The presentation was followed by an interesting panel discussion and Q&A. The overall impression I was left with was you have to be your own advocate. Dress properly, use protection, avoid potential tick habitat and check yourself daily. Many doctors are not up on Lyme disease symptoms which can vary with each case so you have to be perseverant if you suddenly become ill.
An outstanding website with all the information on ticks, their life cycle and prevention is: https://nysipm.cornell.edu/whats-bugging-you/ticks/

So far this fall and winter have been wet and often muddy. (I’d personally rather have snow but realize I’m in the minority.) After this weather you are probably well aware of the wet areas of your landscape and might think there wouldn’t be anything that would grow there. Not true, there are many natives that not only grow in damp to wet soil but thrive there. Just picture all the plants that grow in swamps, marshes and areas that are flooded seasonally.

In addition to having a lovely plant in a difficult area, their root systems help to absorb water from the soil, rather like nature’s drainage tiles. The following are a few suggestions of native trees, shrubs and perennials that can be utilized in these difficult areas. There are many more possibilities than those listed here but these will give you some ideas. As with any new planting the site needs to match the plant’s growing conditions. Be aware of the soil type, sun and wind exposure as well as the final size the plant will achieve.

Trees:
Swamp White Oak (Quercus laurifolia) is one of the best trees to plant for nature as they provide food for over 500 species. It is a huge tree, over 75 feet, sun to part sun.
Black Willow (Salix nigra) grows much like the better known (nonnative) weeping willow except the branches don’t have that weeping characteristic. It prefers full sun and will grow to 60 feet. This would not be a good choice near sewer or water pipes as their roots can penetrate pipes and cause problems.

Red Maple (Acer rubrum) prefers sun to part shade and will grow to over 60 feet tall. It is the best native maple for a wide range of growing conditions. Beautiful fall color; red, yellow and orange is one of the good landscape features.

Shrubs:
Serviceberry/ Shadbush (Amelanchier canadensis) tolerates sun to shade, grows to 10 to 20 feet high. Blooms white in early spring followed by edible dark purple berries that birds (and people) love. There are other varieties including a tree form; Allegheny Serviceberry (Amelanchier laevis).

Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) gets its name from the round white flowers that look like little fireworks which show up in contrast to the dark green glossy leaves. It prefers growing in continually moist soil and can even take standing water in full sun. It will grow up to 9 feet high and wide.

Summersweet Clethra (Clethra alnifolia) prefers moist to wet acidic soil in partial shade to sun. Will grow up to 8 feet high and gets elongated white sweet smelling flowers in mid-summer. This has become one of the bestselling shrubs for our region.
Red Osier Dogwood (Cornbus sericea) prefers wet to moist soil and will tolerate standing water. It grows to 9 feet high and wide. The red stems that give it its name are a beautiful color contrast for the winter garden. Its leaves have a beautiful deep red fall color.

Perennials:
Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnate) one of the best plants for pollinators and Monarch butterflies. It is better behaved than field milkweed for the home garden and is often recommended for rain gardens. It prefers part shade to sun and will grow to 24 to 48 inches tall. It blooms pink in summer.

Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) will grow in sun to shade. It blooms bright yellow in early spring and has dark green heart shaped leaves for interest during the rest of the year. It’s low growing, 12 to 24 inches.

Joe-pye-weed (Eupatorium fistulosum) is a stunning tall, 36 to 96 inches, plant that blooms pink/rose in late summer and is an important late season nectar source for pollinators. It prefers full sun and can grow in moist soil and standing water.

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) is a hummingbird magnet. It has tall red spikes of flowers in late summer and grows 24 to 48 inches tall. Lobelia does best in continually moist soil in sun to part shade.

Although all the above plants prefer moist to wet soil many of them grow well in average garden conditions. I grow all the above listed perennials with occasional irrigation in dry periods. They may not achieve their optimal growth and flowering but they are surviving quite well.
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Most of the plants listed have been hybridized to develop “cultivars” for improved features like size of bloom and overall size. It’s always best for supporting nature to go with the species as some of the cultivars do not have the food value that the natives do.