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By: Lyn Chimera

Not sure about you, but about a month or so after I bring my plants in for the winter there are tiny pesky flies flying about. They often go right in front of my face which is annoying because they are impossible to catch between your hands.

These tiny flies may well be fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.). They are small dark flies about 1/8” long, blackish grey with long dangling legs. Their antennae have many segments and are longer than their heads. These gnats and have a single pair of greyish transparent wings with a Y-shaped vein near each wing tip. You definitely need a hand lens or microscopes to see these details.

Fungus gnats thrive on plenty of moisture and decaying plant matter. The adults can be a nuisance, but it’s the larvae that are the damaging stage of this insect. Larvae are usually concentrated in the top 1-2 inches of the so. The 1/4 inch larvae are translucent, legless, with a black head. Larvae prefer to feed on fungi rather than healthy plant tissue, as they need fungi for optimal survival. Larvae feeding below the soil surface on root hairs, small feeder roots and fungus can cause stunted growth, off-color leaves or even leaf drop.

To control the gnats, avoid overwatering and water from the bottom if possible. Fungus gnats breed in the moist top 2 inches of the soil so keeping that dry will interrupt that process. Using a sterile potting mix and removing plant debris from the soil surface is helpful. For monitoring adults, yellow sticky traps are effective.

An interesting fact is a female’s offspring will either be all male or all female. Female fungus gnats lay about 200 eggs which hatch in 3-6 days. The four larval instars then feed for about 2 weeks and usually pupate near the soil surface within a thread chamber. After 3-7 days in the pupal stage, adults emerge and live for up to 8 days. They can develop from egg to adult in 3-4 weeks. A generation of fungus gnats (from female to female) can be produced in about 17 days depending upon temperature. The warmer it is, the faster they will develop and the more generations will be produced in a year.

I battle these pests every year and have had success just keeping the plants on the dry side for the first month or so after they are brought in.

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Dear Gardening Friends,

I hope all of you have a HAPPY and SAFE and HEALTY Holiday season. This is a very different year for all of us and we can only hope with the new year will come happier times.

Luckily, we have our gardens to distract us and the following are some things you can do now.

With the lack of consistent snow cover, it’s important to protect your plants from temperature fluctuations. An easy way to do this is to lightly cover plants that were new this year or have shallow roots. A few options are:

- Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local the dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
-- Straw – can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
-- This is a good time to prune away any branches that have been or might be damaged from winter wind. Make sure to trim back to a branch join and not leave stubs.
-- Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

Houseplants: This is the time of year when some houseplants are probably needing a little attention.

-- Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
-- Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The aves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or soft cloth.
-- Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do.
-- If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs righty through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
-- By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants.

Misc.:
- This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
- Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

Educational Opportunities: What better way to spend a winter’s day than attending a gardening class. It will help you improve your gardening and get you in the mood for spring. There are 2 excellent Master Gardener events coming up via Zoom.

Annual Spring Bloom Classes:
Dates: Tuesday, February 9, 6:30 – 8:00 pm, Thursday, February 18, 6:30 – 8:00 pm and
Saturday, February 27, 10:00 – 11:30 am

Topics:
- What Gardeners Need to Know About Insects and Diseases
- Meatballs, Volcanoes and Other Garden Malpractices
- Growing Fruits and Vegetables.
Fee: $15/class, $45 for all three

Check the website for which date each topic will be presented. When I’m writing this tips,
matching dates with topics has not been determined based on presenter availability.
http://erie.cce.cornell.edu/events

MG Education Day:
Master Gardener Education Day, March 13, 2021
Those of you who have attended MGED in the past know what a worthwhile event it is. Each speaker will present one session.
Rick Darke - Co-author with Doug Tallamy of The Living Landscape will present:

Dynamic Design and Stewardship of Living Landscapes.
This richly illustrated talk will present ideas for plant selection, design and care of home landscapes that are beautiful and joyfully livable. Our garden is our home habitat. For most of us, it is the landscape we spend the most time in. When designed to support a great variety of life, it will be full of surprises and add intrigue, beauty, and interest every day. The presentation will feature Rick's own high-resolution photos of gardens and designs that have proven to be practical, durable, conserving, and affordable.

Paul Zammit, professor at Niagara College in Ontario and past Director of Horticulture at the Toronto Botanical Gardens and international speaker will present:

Planning and Planting for All Seasons.
Who puts a garden to bed, and why would you? For Paul, gardens do not have a yearly start or end date. He believes that they transition from one season of display to the next, including winter. Each season has its shining stars and Paul will highlight some of his favorites during his lively and energetic presentation. Join Paul, as he shares his passion for plants and other possible garden additions while taking us on a journey through the seasons where he
will remind us how we can all plan and plant a garden with year-round appeal.

MGED will begin at 9:00 AM and run until 12:45 PM via Zoom. The cost will be $35 for the public and $30 for out of county Master Gardeners and CNLP’s. Registration will begin on January 1 st . To register go to http://erie.cce.cornell.edu/events

Trust me, you won’t want to miss this amazing and fun day.

Garden Presentations:

There is a full listing of the presentations I offer on garden related topics on my website: lessonsfromnature.biz, or let me know and I will send you the listing.

Winter Garden Consultations: Yes, I do winter consultations. If you’re planning changes in your landscape this coming season getting an early start planning now will be helpful. Having a Garden Consultation in the winter is a good way to start. Just call me for an appointment. Appointments can be done virtually during the current restrictions.

Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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By Lyn Chimera
Our native eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) is my favorite native conifer. We are lucky to have some mature and younger ones on our property. Its graceful beauty, adaptability, and tenacity at being able to hold itself onto ravine walls is a source of wonder. In my mind there is nothing more picturesque in the winter than hemlock with snow on its branches. A true photo op. The fact that the needles stay dark green all year adds to their beauty. Dr. Donald Leopold, author of Native Plants of the Northeast says,” There is no more graceful looking tree at any age in Eastern North America.”

Hemlocks have a wide growing light range tolerating from sun to shade. They prefer acid soil that is slightly moist. In nature they often grow along woodland streams or in large stands of moist woods. On a hot summer day, it is noticeably cooler when you enter a hemlock wood. We are lucky to live where there are many such places. The Adirondacks is noted for its hemlock forests.

This is not a small tree. It can attain a height of 60-80 feet sometimes reaching 100 feet high. Their width is 25 to 40 feet. Hemlock needles are quite small, 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch. They are deep green on top and underneath are lighter green with 2 parallel silver/white bands. For such a huge conifer their cones are very small, 3⁄4 of an inch long, and egg shaped. The cones look like small ornaments dangling down from the branches.

They make a great addition to a winter door swag. They are slow growing but long lived, reaching maturity in 250 – 300 years! One of the adaptable qualities of the hemlock is they can be a free-standing specimen tree or planted in a
group for a green wall effect. They even take to pruning well and develop into beautiful hedges. This, however, requires continual maintenance but is well worth it.

The common name "hemlock" was reportedly given because the crushed foliage smells a little like that of
the poisonous herb hemlock, which is native to Europe. The root system of this species is shallow, making the tree vulnerable to ground fires, drought, and wind.

As with many trees, the bark of Eastern Hemlocks changes as the tree matures. When the tree is young, the bark is gray-brown and relatively smooth. As the tree ages, the bark becomes cinnamon brown, with thick, ridges forming flat plates, very easily identified.

The bark of Eastern Hemlock was once a commercial source of tannin, used in the production of leather. At present, the Eastern Hemlock has more limited commercial uses than some other conifers in the region. The characteristics of hemlock wood limit its use to relatively low-grade products, such as structural lumber, pulpwood, and pallets. The bark is currently in demand today, but for landscaping mulch. The Eastern Hemlock makes a poor Christmas tree since its needles fall upon drying and the
branches are soft and pliable. Its value as firewood is limited by the fact that the wood throws sparks.

However, the eastern hemlock has a huge role in supporting the ecosystem. Its branches offer shelter and
nesting sites for many bird species. The seeds from its cones provide food for birds and small mammals.

Unfortunately, there is an invasive pest, the hemlock wooly adelgid (HWA), related to aphids, that is decimating native hemlocks throughout the eastern US. It doesn’t survive in winter temperatures below 0 degrees, so our cold weather has helped prevent it from being widespread here. However, now that we are experiencing warmer winters, we are seeing the adelgid in WNY and the Adirondacks. This could be an environmental disaster. Oddly, the HWA is most visible in winter when the HWA covers itself with a waxy white coating that is easily visible on the underside of the branches where the needles contact the branches. If you have hemlocks be sure to keep an eye out for these bugs during the winter.

For more
information go to:
http://ulster.cce.cornell.edu/environment/invasive-pests/hemlock-woolly-adelgid

A gift certificate for plants or a Garden Consult makes a GREAT holiday gift. Just contact us.

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Dear Gardening Friends,

If it makes you feel any better, I am a long way from having fall garden chores done. Mother Nature just isn’t cooperating. It’s been either too cold or too wet to get much done and I’m not a particularly wimpy gardener. It seemed like when there was a nice day, I was busy with something else. Oh well, whatever doesn’t get done can wait till spring.

There are many perennials that are still looking good and even a few annuals. Even so, there are a few things that should be done before winter.

If you have problems with deer, rabbits or other critters now is the time to put up defenses.

- The trunks of young trees can be wrapped with trunk wraps to protect them from the nibbling of mice and rabbits and rubbing of deer. You can also use chicken wire cages or hardware wire. Be sure the protection goes high enough so critters don't sit on top of the snow to browse and spread chicken wire over the ground about a foot around the plant so they can’t dig under it.

- If deer are an issue, heavy duty deer mesh works well. For shrubs like taxis and arbs you can just wrap the shrub in the netting or burlap. For other shrubs use stakes to attach the mesh and form a protective circle around the shrub. Remember to make the barrier high enough. Deer can stand on their hind legs to eat.

- Shrub coats and burlap tents are good for protecting from wind damage as well as deer. Basically, you are fortifying your yard for the winter!

If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.

Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. Leaving them outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak. A handy way to store them is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable.

Tools should also not be left outside. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.

Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Emerald Ash Borer. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.

If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to syphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you.

Gifts for gardeners:
Lessons from Nature offers gift certificates for Garden Consults or perennials. They are the perfect gift for any gardener. Just contact me for details. I can send the gift certificates to you via email or directly to the person you’re giving it to.

Have a safe and HEALTHY winter!!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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Dear Gardening Friends,

Here we go with October. The time is going by so fast I feel like I’m living in a time warp. October is a wonderful month for gardening. It’s cooler and hopefully we’ll have more regular rain. The following are some tips for this time of year.

-If you haven’t planted spring bulbs yet it would be advisable to do it soon so the blubs can establish some roots. Technically you can plant any time before the soil freezes, but you’ll have a better chance for a good bloom if you don’t wait that long.

- If you have any plants left outside that you plan to bring in for the winter stop reading these tips and do it now. Seriously, the nights have been cold, and some areas have had frost so there is no time to waste. Be sure to rinse them off well and check for critters before bringing in.

-With the dry weather we’ve had during September the leaves of many plants, especially spring bloomers, have already started dying back. I usually don’t cut many plants back in the fall. The crowns help protect the roots over the winter and provide good habitat for beneficial insects. The exception to this is any plants that have disease. Those should be cut down and removed. Do not compost diseased material. Hosta are another exception. Their leaves turn mushy and get funky, so I cut those back. Hosta come up late in the spring. If you leave some of the bloom stems up, they will overwinter and signal where the plants are in the spring.

-If you had problems with 4-lined plant bug (evidenced by small round brown spots on the leaves) cut those stems back to the crown as the insect lays its eggs in the plant stems.

-Moving perennials now is still possible but not ideal toward the end of the month. Just like the bulbs, perennials need time to develop roots. Anything moved this fall needs to be kept well watered until the ground freezes.

-There is still time to plant trees and shrubs. They are going into dormancy so should do well if kept well watered.

-Weeding is a priority. There are some weeds in my garden that are taller than the perennials! Truth be told I’ve not done much in the garden in the last month and it shows. It’s important to remove the weeds. If they are perennial weeds, they will be much easier to remove than next spring when they will be bigger and nastier. Seed heads from annual weeds removed before they drop seeds prevents a ton of weeding next year.

-As your annuals fade, pull them out roots and all. It’s easier to remove them before the frost
makes them mushy.

-Although fall isn’t the best time to prune many trees and shrubs, any dead or damaged branches should be trimmed. This will eliminate the possibility of them breaking during a winter storm, and damaging home, garage, etc. Any branches that have grown large enough to be in the way or in danger of poking someone in the eye should also be removed.

-If you have little flying fungus gnats in the house all of a sudden, they likely came in in the soil of some plants you brought in to overwinter. Keep the soil on the dry side and that will solve the problem. The larva of the gnats live in the top 2 inches of moist soil. If the soil is dry, that will break the cycle. You can also spray with Neem Oil.

Educational Opportunities:

One of the good things resulting from the pandemic is there are a wealth of educational programs available online. Check Botanical Garden sites, Universities like Cornell and Pen state and some of your favorite authors. I’d suggest staying away from sites selling you products. If you have any questions, I’m just a click away.

Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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Dear Gardening Friends,

Here we are in the beginning of September. What a summer this has been! The temperatures are cooling down and we are getting more regular rain. If this weather pattern keeps up it will be time for fall gardening chores. The following are some things you can do:

The first step is to assess what you think needs to be done. I like walking around the
garden with a notebook and writing down ideas of what should be divided, moved, or
eliminated as well as what you’d like to add or change for next year.

Second, I prioritize chores into things to be accomplished this fall and those that can wait
until spring.

Moving and dividing: Due to the wet spring many perennials are extra large, crowding each other, and will need some attention The basic strategy is if it blooms in the spring divide it in the fall and if it blooms in the fall divide it in the spring. This, however, is a generalization that has lots of exceptions. My priorities are to take care of the spring blooming perennials first then see how much time and energy I have left. Signs that a perennial needs to be divided are: overcrowding, reduced blooms, not doing well in that location &/or a “doughnut hole” in the center of the plant which is an indication it needs to be divided. When moving any plant try and get as many of the roots as possible and dig the planting hole no deeper than the root mass but twice as wide. It’s also good to add 1/3 compost to the planting hole to give the soil a nutritional boost. Extra plants can be shared or potted up for use next season.

To winter over potted perennials, you can sink them in the ground and cover them with leaves or put them together in a sheltered area like next to the garage or house and cover with leaves. I have had good luck sinking them in my compost pile. - Other fall chores: It’s a good time to plant trees and shrubs. Check local nurseries for sales. Perennials will be on sale as well. Check sale plants, trees and shrubs carefully for signs of insects and disease. An unhealthy or infested plant is no bargain.

Trees and shrubs, as well as perennials should be planted when they will have at least 4 weeks for their roots to settle in and should be well watered until the soil freezes. This is a good time to cut back stems on plants that are past their prime. If it looks more brown than green you can cut it back. Any diseased plants should be cut back and the cuttings discarded, not put in the compost. It’s not necessary to cut back all the perennials.

Leaving plants with seed heads intact is good food for winter birds. The crowns and leaves of the plants also serve as a protective cover for the plants against temperature changes during the winter. I tend to leave most plants intact for the winter and leave fallen leaves in the garden beds. It’s good for protecting the roots from temperature fluctuations as well as providing necessary winter habitat for many beneficial insects and their larva.

Early September is a good time to bring in annuals for the winter or take cuttings. This should be done BEFORE the nights get cooler and your furnace goes on. It’s also best to take cuttings or bring plants in when they are in their prime. They will not do well after they start diminishing.

Bulbs can be planted now for best results as they will have time to set some roots before winter. That being said, you can technically plant them up until the ground freezes. If you have problems with critters digging up your bulbs, put a square of small gauge chicken wire over the planting hole (under the top surface of soil so it isn’t visible) or you can use pea gravel. The bulbs will grow right through the chicken wire/gravel. Don’t add bone meal to the bulb planting hole as it actually draws critters. If you use any fertilizer mix it into the soil so it doesn’t burn the bulbs.

Lawn care: Fall is a good time to reseed or over-seed your lawn. It’s also a good time to apply fertilizer if your lawn needs it. Applying fertilizer when the lawn is brown and dormant is not advised. Natural fertilizers are much better than chemical fertilizers. However, if you mow high, leave the grass clippings on the lawn and lightly spread some compost over the grass. That’s all you need to do.

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Fall Classes:
The classes will be presented via Zoom and the cost will be $15.00/ class or $40 for all three
classes. Mark your calendar and plan to attend any or all of the following: Tuesday, September 15, 6:30 - 8:00 pm Carol Ann Harlos will present Bulbs and Tubers and Corms, Oh, My! Learn what’s new just in time to plant for a spring show. Wednesday, September 23, 6:30 - 8:00 pm Peggy Koppmann will present Fall Propagation. Autumn is a great time for home gardeners to propagate plants. Learn how to take cuttings of
shrubs and overwinter them. Phyllis Lobbins will discuss the popular Winter Sowing technique
for starting perennials. Gather your milk jugs now.

Saturday, September 26, 6:30 8:00 pm Linda Mayer will present Happy Healthy Houseplants.
Houseplants are the fastest growing area of gardening with new and unusual varieties appearing in nursery centers everywhere. Learn how to keep them happy and healthy.

Register at:
https://reg.cce.cornell.edu/2020_FallGardeningClass_214

Garden Consult:

Late summer is when you can assess your successes and failures and make improvements for next year. What to keep, what to get rid of or what to move. A Garden Consultation can help you decide what worked, what didn’t, why these issues occurred, and what you can do about them. Call or e-mail to set up an appointment.

Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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Dear Gardening Friends,

Hard to believe August is here. I don’t know about you, but the time seems to be flying by. I hadn’t gotten used to it being July and here we are in August. This is a busy month in the garden. The following are a few tips.

- The Japanese Beetles seem to finally be waning. Keep looking and get the last of them in a container of soapy water. Every time I get 2 mating, I know it means they
won’t be laying eggs for next year.

- Some areas have had more rain than others. If you haven’t gotten enough rain don’t let up on the watering and remember your trees and shrubs need water too. However, the grass doesn’t. It might go dormant but will come right back with the next rain.

- It’s better to water for a long time once a week than a little every few days. The water needs to get down where the roots are. In this heat more than one inch a week may be necessary.

- Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product.

- A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.

- Spiders are more common in fall. People don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.

- By early August, discontinue fertilizing all plants except annuals. Perennials, trees and shrubs are starting their slow down into winter dormancy. They need to rest, not
try and push out new growth.

- A good way to prevent seeded annual weeds is by cutting them back and removing the seeds, before they are disbursed. If you don’t have time to weed at least you can cut off the seed heads.

- This technique works for perennials as well. If you don’t want your black-eyed- Susan’s, coneflowers, or asters (just to mention a few) to reseed cut the seed heads
back. If you don’t mind the spread leave the seed heads up to feed the birds during the fall and winter. I love watching the chickadees on the seed heads in the winter.

- Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if this hot and dry weather continues, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler
weather.

- If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler time. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.

- When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.

- If you want to take cuttings of annuals to winter over, now is a good time. Cuttings need to be taken while the plants are in their prime not after they start to fade. You
can get good instructions online. Take cuttings early in the day before the sun hits the plants.

- Dividing and transplanting perennials is ideal once the weather cools down and we get consistent rain. Hopefully, it will cool down by mid-month, if not hold off as there
is plenty of time and the plants will transplant much better. Keep in mind, plants that are overcrowded are prone to fungal disease. Transplanting things in late summer
allows the roots to set in before winter and saves time in the spring.

- The basic rule is things that bloom in spring should be moved in fall. Fall blooming plants should be moved in spring. However, most fall things can be moved in fall
after they are finishing blooming. It’s best not to move any plants in bloom as they have to spend too much energy keeping their flowers going and don’t set roots as
well.

- If you have oak trees be aware there is a new pathogen, Oak Wilt that can be deadly to oaks. To hep prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The
insect that spreads the disease lays it’s eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

Educational Opportunities:

Master Gardener Fall Classes:
The classes will be presented via Zoom and the cost will be $15.00/ class or $40 for all three classes. Mark your calendar and plan to attend any or all of the following:
Tuesday, September 15, 6:30 - 8:00 pm Carol Ann Harlos will present Bulbs and Tubers and Corms, Oh, My! Learn what’s new just in time to plant for a spring show.

Wednesday, September 23, 6:30 - 8:00 pm Peggy Koppmann will present Fall Propagation. Autumn is a great time for home gardeners to propagate plants. Learn how to take cuttings of shrubs and overwinter them. Phyllis Lobbins will discuss the popular Winter Sowing technique for starting perennials. Gather your milk jugs now.

Saturday, September 26, 6:30 8:00 pm Linda Mayer will, present Happy Healthy Houseplants. Houseplants are the fastest growing area of gardening with new and unusual varieties appearing in nursery centers everywhere. Learn how to keep them happy and healthy.
Register at:
https://reg.cce.cornell.edu/2020_FallGardeningClass_214

Lessons from Nature:
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices and help you become a more sustainable and successful gardener. This is an ideal time to plan changes for next season.

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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Dear Gardening Friends,

Looks like our unusual weather is continuing. We’ve had wet and now we’re hot and dry. Time to get out the hoses. The following are some tips for July:

Unfortunately, I’ve already found a few Japanese beetles. If you get the first ones you will decrease the total amount that find you. Get out a container with a few inches of soapy water and knock the little buggers in. Gives me great satisfaction. For more info: https://blogs.cornell.edu/willow/files/2014/10/Japanese-Beetle-Popillia-japonica-fact-sheet-16vi6b4.pdf

Another insect I’ve had a lot of evidence of is 4 lined plant bug. It’s a small yellow and black striped true bug that has a piercing mouth part that leaves small round dark circles in the leaves. Fortunately, this doesn’t damage the plants, but it is unsightly. They lay their eggs in the stems of the effected plants so at the end of the season cutting down those stems helps reduce the infestation next year. For more info: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/four-lined-plant-bug/

Watch for signs of fungal disease like powdery mildew and begin treatment with an environmentally safe fungicide specific to your problem. Remove affected leaves and disinfect your pruner and hands before moving to another plant. Fungal disease can be diminished by giving the plants good air circulation. With the hot weather watering will be very important especially for new plants that were planted or transplanted this season. They do not have root systems established and will need supplemental watering.

For garden watering in general take a trowel or shovel and make a divot down 6 inches. If it’s dry down at the root zone it’s time to water. You can’t tell just by the dryness of the surface soil. In this heat with intense sun the standard 1 inch of water a week may not be enough. It’s much better to water deeply less often that daily shallow watering. The water has to reach the root zone. Pots are another story. Most will need daily watering if they are in the sun. If you fertilize your plants, it’s best to do it when the soil is moist.

Natural fertilizers are much better for the plants and soil than chemical ones. Chemical fertilizers contain salts which kill the natural microbes in the soil which are what feed the plants. Moving plants this late in the season is not advised. Wait till the fall which is an ideal time for moving and adding plants, trees and shrubs. If any of you are having problems with the lily leaf beetle (a small red beetle on true lilies) try a squirt of Dawn dish liquid in a spray bottle of water. A few people have said that helps. I’ve seen them on tricyrtis (toad lily) this year so check out those as well. For more information check: http://news.cornell.edu/stories/2001/07/cornell-cooperative-extension-master-gardeners-spot-invasive-unpleasant-beetles-new

Then there’s weeding… Just when you think you’re finished more pop up. Try and keep up or at least remove or deadhead weeds before they drop seed. If you haven’t mulched this will help control the weeds.

The deer tick population is increasing as has the incidence of Lymes disease. People are finding them in their gardens. Wherever there are deer and black footed mice there is a chance of ticks. For complete information and suggestions check out the Department of Health in Erie County’s website: http://www2.erie.gov/health/index.php?q=ticks-lyme-disease. It has a video of how to remove a tick and info on how to prevent as well as identify.

Gardening events in July:

Even though Garden Walk Buffalo and most of the weekend community garden walks have been canceled Open Gardens on Thursday and Friday are still happening. My gardens are open on Fridays from 10-2. Please stop by. Masks and safe distancing will be required.

Garden Walk Buffalo and the East Side Garden Walk are sharing gardens differently in 2020 with a program called Garden Views.
Activities will happen every day in July and will include strolling by front yard gardens, seeing backyard gardens on video, hearing live gardening experts and hearing garden stories all virtually. For information and schedules go to https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/ or buffaloniagaragardening,com

Master Gardener Online Garden Fence Chats
Join our CCE Erie Master Gardener hotline volunteers as we host virtual hotline hours or ‘Garden Fence Chats’ which are now held Monday and Wednesdays at 10 AM instead of daily. Monday’s chat is on a specific topic and the Wednesday chat covers what’s happening in our gardens.

REGISTER FOR GARDEN FENCE CHATS HERE https://cornell.zoom.us/meeting/register/vpYvcu6trTspMthpDqjMUzrOiSoFqWp1eQ?fbclid=IwAR3qWjL-oua5i7Sjqm6y6lXaanBXl1inS_GOQu3wfjUjA0KaGwZSTrsvGdU

This will be an opportunity to chat with Master Gardener hotline volunteers real time and share your gardening questions either by phone or the computer. The link above will also list the topics for Mondays. They are also listed on Buffalo-niagaragardening.com.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.

Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

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Dear Gardening Friends,

First, I want to thank all of you who ordered plants from my plant sale last month. It was very successful, but I missed seeing everyone at the sale. Hopefully, next year we will be back to normal.

It’s JUNE How did that happen?! I know this cold snap is temporary, but it still feels like March to me. One of the lessons learned from the extreme weather swings we’ve had over the last 3 months is that nature survives. We may have lost some things to the heavy freeze in May and had transplants wilt in the extreme heat last week, but overall plants survive.

I was fascinated at how fast the trees leafed out during that hot week. Some of my ferns grew seemingly overnight. Others are not even up yet, and I’m concerned. Yet, looking at gardens they seem lush and green. We are lucky we have our gardens to distract us during these difficult times.

The following are some tips for this time of year.

There are quite a few things happening in the garden based on all the rain we’ve had. One of which is the plants are growing lush and large. Good air circulation is helpful in preventing fungal disease so you may need to cut back on some plants that are crowding each other.

Another resulting factor of the moist soil is slugs. In my garden I have been experiencing an over abundance of the little buggers. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.

Watch out for any insect issues you have had in the past. As soon as you notice damage, take action. Identify what the insect is and research the best and most ecological way to deal with it. It’s much easier to control at the onset than once a lot of damage is done.

With the cooler weather I am still dividing and moving some perennials. Once they get large or form flower buds it’s best not to disturb them. This will probably be my last week for moving plants.

If you do move a plant, protect it from the intense sun for a few days to prevent the plant from wilting. It’s a major shock for a plant to be uprooted and in combination with the intensity of the sun this time of year, shade helps reduce the shock. Bushel baskets work well, empty plastic planting pots, boxes, even an umbrella works.

The deer tick population is increasing as has the incidence of Lymes disease. People are finding them in their gardens. Wherever there are deer and black footed mice there is a chance of ticks. For complete information and suggestions check out the Department of Health in Erie County’s website: http://www2.erie.gov/health/index.php?q=ticks-lyme-disease. It has a video of how to remove a tick and info on how to prevent as well as identify.

Educational Opportunity:
Master Gardener Online Garden Fence Chats
Join our CCE Erie Master Gardener hotline volunteers as we host virtual hotline hours or ‘Garden Fence Chats’ Monday –Friday via Zoom from 10:00 am to noon.
REGISTER FOR GARDEN FENCE CHATS HERE https://cornell.zoom.us/meeting/register/vpYvcu6trTspMthpDqjMUzrOiSoFqWp1eQ?fbclid=IwAR3qWjL-oua5i7Sjqm6y6lXaanBXl1inS_GOQu3wfjUjA0KaGwZSTrsvGdU
This will be an opportunity to chat with Master Gardener hotline volunteers real time and share your gardening questions either by phone or the computer. The link above will also list the topics for the week. They are also listed on Buffalo-niagaragardening.com.
We will open each day with a short presentation covering a timely topic or frequently asked question and then keep the line open for people to call-in or virtually stop-by with questions. Come hear from your garden friends what is happening in their gardens and what they are learning.

We reuse pots so please drop off left over pots and trays at my home, 170 Pine St (driveway on Lawrence) or 37 N. Union in Wmsvl. (behind the house by back door). I do not use 6 packs or pots smaller than 4 inches. THANKS!

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.

Happy Gardening!

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Mulch, the Good and Not So Good

6/1/2020

Most of us have heard about mulch but just what is it and why should you use it? First of all mulch is basically any material used to cover the bare surface of the soil. Nature has been mulching itself forever. Tree leaves and plants at the end of the season decompose on site and provide soil cover and nutrients for the next season. We have created controlled habitats in our gardens and have to provide this necessary process.

There are multiple reasons to use mulch. The most common one people think of is to prevent weeds from growing. Who likes to spend the summer weeding?! However, other reasons are just as important if not more so; helping the soil retain moisture so you don’t have to water as much, keep the soil cooler which also cuts down on water evaporation and helps prevent cracking during dry periods, protect the soil from heavy rains and erosion, cut down on soil splashing up on the plants and lastly it gives the garden a finished look.

The two main types of mulch are organic and inorganic. Organic simply means it’s made from plant or animal materials that have been ground or composted. Organic mulches will eventually decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Inorganic mulches include stone and plastic sheeting and have no value for the soil.

Organic mulches are the best to use because along with all the ways they help your garden mentioned above they will also help improve the fertility of the soil as well as the structure of the soil making it easier for the roots to grow and easier for you to dig. As the organic mulch decomposes during the season it adds life to the soil through microorganisms. It’s these microorganisms that feed the plants. Most organic mulch consists of items like composted animal manure, leaves, straw, ground wood, sludge and yard and kitchen waste.

Some of the most common mulches are made from chipped or ground wood, bark and branches. This is usually referred to as wood chips or bark mulch. In my opinion the large wood chip mulch is not the best option. It decomposes very slowly and adds little nutrient value to the soil. After a season or two it turns grey and the recommendation is to remove it and add fresh. Seems like a lot of expense and energy for mulch that is not that good at keeping weeds down.

Triple ground wood mulch is a much better option. You will pay more but it’s more effective at weed control and will add nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. Cedar mulch has become popular because of the color however the cedars are being harvested from cedar bogs in the south at a frightening rate. For this reason alone I don’t recommend using it.

Compost is a very affective mulch especially if you have “dirt” instead of good soil. Adding compost is the most effective way of improving your soil. When I started gardening my soil was heavy clay and almost impossible to dig. I mulched with compost for quite a few years and it made a huge difference. You can make your own or buy it by the bag or yard delivered to your driveway. A mixture of triple ground wood mulch and compost is ideal and available at many nurseries.

Mulched leaves are an ideal and FREE mulch. To use as mulch the leaves have to be ground up using a mulching lawn mower. I collect mulched leaves people discard at the curb in the fall and bag them for later use. They make a light weight (no back breaking shoveling of heavy mulch) excellent mulch. I use mulched leaves exclusively now except for one bed in the front which gets a lot of wind.

Mulches to avoid are the non-organic varieties. Stone mulch is not recommended. It’s heavy, expensive, doesn’t improve the soil, increases watering needs and is an ineffective weed barrier. It also absorbs heat which can be harmful to some plants and causes the water in the soil to evaporate faster. Plastic garden or weed barrier is also a very poor choice. You need to cover it with mulch to hold it down and it tends to migrate and show up above the soil after a while. Plastic weed cloth is also very hard to plant through and when weeds do show up are hard to remove.

Bottom line… use an organic mulch that includes some compost. It will make your gardening much easier and improve the soil at the same time. A win/win situation!

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Mulch, the Good and Not So Good