Dear Gardening Friends,

• Watering has to be a priority and the way you water is important.
  • Most pots in the sun will nee watering every day. If it is a very full pot possibly 2/day. Ones in the shade probably less. Watering until the water runs out the bottom of the pot ensures the whole pot is moistened. The way to tell if a pot needs watering is to poke your finger into the soil down a few inches. If the soil is moist you don’t have to water. Overwatering in pots can be as harmful as underwatering.
  • For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
  • Don’t worry if your grass starts to turn brown. Grass naturally goes dormant in dry periods, and it doesn’t harm the grass. It will green up with the next rain.
  • The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
  • For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.
• This past week I’ve seen a few Japanese beetles. If you get the first ones, you will decrease the total amount that find you. Check the plants you know they prefer. Get out a container with a few inches of soapy water and knock the little buggers in. Gives me great satisfaction. For more info: https://blogs.cornell.edu/willow/files/2014/10/Japanese-Beetle-Popillia-japonica-fact-sheet-16vi6b4.pdf
• An insect that is in abundance this season is 4 lined plant bug. It’s a small yellow and black striped true bug that has a piercing mouth part that leaves small round dark circles in the leaves. Fortunately, this doesn’t kill the plants, but it is unsightly. They lay their eggs in the stems of the effected plants so at the end of the season cutting down those stems helps reduce the infestation next year. For more info: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/four-lined-plant-bug/
• I’ve also seen signs of powdery mildew. This is a whiteish coating on the leaves. For plants like phlox that are susceptible to fungal disease you can start treatment before it shows symptoms. Treat with an environmentally safe fungicide specific to your problem. Remove affected leaves and disinfect your pruner and hands before moving to another plant. For more info:  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/powdery-mildew/
• If you fertilize your plants, it’s best to do it when the soil is moist. Natural fertilizers are much better for the plants and soil than chemical ones. Chemical fertilizers contain salts which kill the natural microbes in the soil which are what feed the plants. Chemical fertilizer is OK for pots as that soil is discarded each year.
• Because of the intense heat it’s best to wait till fall to do any transplanting. It’s very stressful for the plants. If you have to move something, give the plant some shelter from the sun with a box or umbrella for a few days and keep it well watered.
• If any of you are having problems with the lily leaf beetle (a small red beetle on true lilies) try a squirt of Dawn dish liquid in a spray bottle of water. A few people have said that helps. I’ve seen them on tricyrtis (toad lily) this year so check out those as well. For more information check:

• Then there’s weeding… Just when you think you’re finished more pop up. Try and keep up or at least remove or deadhead weeds before they drop seed. If you haven’t mulched this will help control the weeds.

 
Gardening events in July:
 
Garden Walk Buffalo, Open Garens and the weekend community garden walks are up and running. Open Gardens are every Thursday and Friday in July. Unfortunately my gardens will not be open this year.
 
For information and schedules go to https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/ or buffaloniagaragardening,com. The Open Garden books which include all activities are also available at select nurseries and some of the Open Gardens.
 
The East Aurora Garden Walk will be July 16 & 17, 10:00 – 3:00. My gardens will be open that weekend. Stop by and say hello.
 
 
Lessons from Nature events:
 
I will start hypertufa and concrete birdbath and steppingstone classes in a few weeks. Each class is $30 and you get to make 2. Contact me and we can set up a class of up to 4 people.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

Because of the few mild spring like days we’ve had we have to remember it is March and spring could be a long way off. This has been an unusual winter so it’s hard to know what to expect. We just must be patient and know spring WILL come eventually. The following are some ideas of what you can do now to prepare for the gardening season.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

• Take advantage of the continuing cold weather to get your garden tools cleaned and sharpened.

• If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance. If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.

• Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.

• Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on shovels as well as pruners. Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)

• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.

• I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If it’s done it when the soil is very wet or still frozen the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.

• Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.

• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.

• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.

• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.

• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.

Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.

Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz

Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 12 from 9:00am – 3:00pm.  

We are excited to announce his year’s Education Day will be in person. This will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:

Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:

 Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden

Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow

Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:

Floriferous Design

The cost is, $45 for MG’s, $60 for the public. Morning break with snacks and hot buffet lunch included.
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 652-5400 ext. 176.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help with pruning, improve your garden and gardening practices and save you money!
 

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera

Lessons from Nature

170 Pine St.

E. Aurora, NY 14052

lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz

652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• If you collected pine boughs for winter plant protection and there’s too much snow to put them out, just save them in the garage or a pile and put them out when the snow melts.
• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• We’ve had a lot of wind lately so it’s a good time to pick up sticks and debris.
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring.

• This is a good time to prune. First check for wind damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Believe it or not you can still plant those bulbs in the garage! As long as the ground isn’t frozen you can plant them.
• Since there isn’t any snow cover (at least as I write this here in E Aurora) there is time to finish those fall chores you didn’t get to like bringing in plant stakes and supports. I just completed that core this week.
• Anything else like garden art, birdbaths or pots should be brought in the garage, basement or wherever you keep things that will be damaged by winters snow and ice.
• If you still have unplanted trees or shrubs that can be planted as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Left over potted perennials can be dug into the ground or compost pile. They can also be placed together in ground cover or in the garage and covered with leaves or straw to protect from temperature fluctuations.
• Perennial weeds can be removed if you can reach them without stepping on the soft soil. Imagine weeding in January!
• Many of the perennials left up will get knocked over by snow or wind. That’s OK. They form a nice winter protection for the root systems.
• Check out last month’s Garden Tips on my website (lessonsfromnature.biz) for more tips on winter protection. Since we haven’t had much snow it’s necessary to offer some added protection from temperature fluctuations AND critters.

• Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
• Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.

Dear Gardening Friends,
 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Leaves work well also. Instead of raking them all to the street save a few bags or piles to much those tender perennials.
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• This is a good time to prune away any branches that have been or might be damaged from winter wind or in the way. Make sure to trim back to a branch join and not leave stubs. Most other pruning should wait till late winter/early spring.
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Pull all annuals. It’s tough when some still look so good but they are easier to deal with before they collapse from frost 
• It’s late to bring in annuals as the nights have been so cold, they won’t adapt well to the warm house. This goes for cuttings also.
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. 
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. Leaving them outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak. A handy way to store them is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable. 
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. My fencing will start going up this weekend. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while for the shrub coats. It’s predicted to be a warmer than average November, but time will tell. (Check my website for last months Garden Tips. They contain more detailed info on winter protection.)
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.
• Tools should also not be left outside. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Emerald Ash Borer. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to syphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you.
• Houseplant tips: If you brought in houseplants that were outside all summer check them for insects. They will probably drop some leaves which is a normal reaction to being moved inside. Make sure to give them the appropriate conditions. It’s best not to crowd them although being grouped together lightly helps hold in humidity. Most plants will not do well in windowsills where it’s colder and the leaves come in contact with the cold glass. It’s better to put up a table in front of the window.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• The temps have been below 50 a few nights so if you haven’t brought in your plants for the winter do it now. While the cooler temps won’t necessarily kill a houseplant or annual it makes the transition to indoor living and dry furnace heat less of a shock and they may not do as well. Be sure to wash them off well with soapy water and check for critters before bringing in. 
• Weed,weed,weed! With the soil a little more moist it’s much easier and you’ll thank yourself in the spring when those perennial weeds aren’t there. Besides weeding is a great way to notice things that need attention in the garden.
• Cut back and remove any perennial that has had a disease like black spot or powdery mildew and remove any leaves left on the soil. Do not compost diseased plant material, dispose of it.
• As far as moving perennials now, they need at least 4 weeks to settle their roots in before the soil gets below 50 degrees. That’s the iffy part. It’s impossible to predict. I moved some ground cover a week ago and am hoping the mild weather lasts. At this point it may be safer to wait till spring. Anything transplanted this fall should be kept well watered until the ground freezes and mulch it well after the ground does freeze.
• Many perennials can be left up over winter. The crowns help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations and birds eat the seeds. There are also many beneficial insects which overwinter in the leaf litter or lay their eggs in the stems.
• If you have any potted perennials that haven’t been planted yet you can store them in a garage, dig the pot into the soil or place it among ground cover and cover with leaves. The important thing is to prevent the roots from freezing. If you have an open compost pile you can dig them in there and cover with leaves. It’s a good idea to hold the leaves down with deer or bird netting so they don’t blow away over the winter. This also helps prevent small critters from digging in. 
• As your annuals fade, pull them out roots and all. It’s easier to remove them before the frost makes them mushy. They can be added to the compost, soil on the roots as well.
• Although fall isn’t the best time to prune many trees and shrubs, any dead or damaged branches should be trimmed. This will eliminate the possibility of them breaking during a winter storm, and damaging home, garage, etc. Any branches that have grown large enough to be in the way or in danger of poking someone in the eye should also be removed.
• That being said, if a dead branch or tree, is not in the way of harming anything you can leave it up. Dead trees and branches are a wonderful habitat for beneficial insects and a natural bird feeder for woodpeckers and other insect eating birds.
• There’s still time to plant bulbs but do it soon as it’s best of they have time to set roots and make them strong for spring bloom. If you have trouble with critters digging up the bulbs, put a layer of pea gravel just under the soil level as you fill the planting hole. This will keep them from digging. You can also use small chicken wire.
• When you do the last mowing of the season leaves the mulched leaves on the lawn along with the grass clippings. It’s good “food” for the lawn.
• Speaking of leaves…SAVE THOSE LEAVES! Let the leaves protect your gardens, you can remove them in the spring if needed. Save any mulched leaves for use as mulch next spring. You can store them in a pile outside or in leaf bags. I keep my bags of mulched leaves under some trees for the winter and it’s ready to use in the spring. Mulched leaves are proving to be the most beneficial garden mulch as it helps improve the soil as well as keep the weeds down.

 
You can still contact me for a garden consult. Having plans in place for improvements next spring is ideal.
        
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
716-652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• The first step is to assess what you think needs to be done. I like walking around the garden with a notebook and writing down ideas of what should be divided, moved, or eliminated as well as what you’d like to add or change for next year.
• Second, I prioritize chores into things to be accomplished this fall and those that can wait until spring. Some of which depend on the weather and of course how long my energy lasts! 
• When the weather starts cooling down and we get more consistent rain it will be time to start dividing and moving perennials. I have been holding off until the weather cooperates as it’s really hard on plants to be moved in this dry heat.
• Reasons for moving and/or dividing can be:
  • When a plant develops a “doughnut hole” or bare spot in the middle of the clump.
  • If a perennial has become overcrowded &/or oversized.
  • If a plant isn’t performing well where it has been for a few years. You can move it to a more appropriate location to meet its growing needs or share with a friend.
  • You just don’t like the way it looks in that spot.
• Fall clean up will depend on the weather. I tend to leave up perennials that don’t have disease or insect infestation. The seed heads feed the birds and the crowns of the plants help protect them from winter temperature fluctuations.
  • Plants with powdery mildew should be cut back to the base and all stray leaves cleaned up from the ground. This is important as the fungal spores can winter over if left.
  • Plants that had 4 lined plant bug damage (small lines of black spots on the leaves) should be cut to the base as the insect lays its eggs in the stems of affected plants.
• Weeding is an important fall job. The seeded annual weeds you remove won’t be dropping seeds for next spring and the perennial weeds will be removed before they get larger and harder to deal with. This will be a chore until the first freeze.
• Many people ask about pruning in the fall.
  • Most pruning should be done late winter early spring including roses, trees, and shrubs.
  • The exception is spring blooming trees and shrubs. They should be pruned right after blooming.
  • Another exception is any branches that are in the way, damaged or dead. Dead plant material can be removed anytime.
• Fall is an ideal time to plant grass seed but wait for cooler weather and look for grass seed that is appropriate for your site. Don’t forget to keep it watered. 
• It’s a good time to plant trees and shrubs. Check local nurseries for sales.
  • Perennials will be on sale as well. Check sale plants, trees and shrubs carefully for signs of insects and disease. An unhealthy or infested plant is no bargain.
  • Trees and shrubs, as well as perennials should be planted when they will have at least 4 weeks for their roots to settle in and should be well watered until the soil freezes.
• Now is also a good time to plant bulbs. They will have time to settle in before the ground freezes.

 
Educational Opportunity:
 
Master Gardener Fall Gardening Classes will be held live this year and you won’t want to miss them. All classes will be held at CCE, East Aurora
 
Tuesday, September 14, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Mackenzie Schuler, Lockwood’s Garden Center
‘Growing Succulents Indoors and Outdoors’: Learn about special soil, watering, and sunlight exposure needs to care for these popular and unusual plants.
 
Wednesday, September 22, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Nate Morey, NYS DEC Forestry Region 9
‘Caring for Trees and Shrubs’: Choose the right tree for your site and learn how to plant,
fertilize, water and protect it from disease and invasive insects.
 
Saturday, September 25, 10:00 – 11:30 am
Emere Nieves, Community Garden Trainer
‘Worm Composting’: An alternative to traditional composting, worm composting
recycles food scraps and other organic material into a nutrient rich soil amendment.
 
Cost: Individual class: $15, Public: 3 classes for $45, Master Gardeners: 3 classes for $40
Registration information at: erie.cce.cornell.edu
 
Fall Perennial Sale: Lessons from Nature, 170 Pine Street E Aurora
 
My garden is overflowing with plants that can’t wait till spring to be divided. The sale will be by pre-order only. Let me know what you want, and I will let you know when you can pick them up.
If you have any questions about the plants just let me know. (Contact info below)
 
Native white violet                             Large blue hosta
Lenten Rose seedlings                                    Med. Late blooming hosta
Brunnera                                             Native Big leaf aster
Native Gold Star                                 Native Wood Poppy
Tricyrtis                                              Dwarf Astilbe
White & Yellow Corydalis                 Native Chocolate Snake Root
Curly Ginger                                       Dragon Arum
Pachysandra                                        Native White Wood Aster
Tansy                                                  Holly Fern
Native Flowering raspberry                Native Golden Ragwort
Native Amsonia                                  Native Blue Wood Aster
Native Shrubby St. John’s Wort         Persicaria
Forget-Me-Not                                    Native White Snake Root
Joe Pye weed             
 
Garden Consult:
 
Late summer is when you can assess your successes and failures and make improvements for next year. What to keep, what to get rid of or what to move. A Garden Consultation can help you decide what worked, what didn’t, why these issues occurred, and what you can do about them. Call or e-mail to set up an appointment.
 
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
716-652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Japanese beetles are almost done (at least in my garden). I’m only getting 4 or 5/day instead of lots. I count them as I flick them into a container of soapy water. It gives me great pleasure.
• You may notice some things are blooming either early or late. This is probably due to the erratic weather we’ve had since early spring. It’s not a long-term concern but I do hope there are some fall blooms left in late fall for the hungry pollinators. 
• Depending on the weather, mid to late August is a good time to start dividing and transplanting perennials. A few tips:
  • If it’s hot and dry hold off till the temps cool down and we get rain. It’s very stressful for a perennial to be dug up and replanted when it’s hot and dry especially if they are in the sun. They go into shock. Giving them some shade with a basket or box for a few days really helps. Transplanting in the shade is much more forgiving.
  • Cutting a tall perennial back a little to reduce the amount of greenery the newly moved plant has to support is less stressful for the plant.
  • Wait to divide until a plant has stopped blooming.
  • The old standard recommendation is if it blooms in the spring move it in the fall and if it blooms in summer/fall move it in spring.
  • This being said, there are many perennials you can divide and move anytime, daylilies. hosta, many groundcovers, and ferns among them.
  • Make sure the plants you move are well hydrated until the ground freezes.
• By mid-August you can stop fertilizing if that is part of your routine. The plants are slowing down and preparing for winter dormancy.
• Leave seed heads on plants as they provide winter food for birds.
• Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product. 
• A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.
• Spiders are more common in fall. Some people don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.
• Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if it’s hot, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler weather.
  • If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler weather. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.
  • When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.
  • If you do reseed make sure to keep the area well watered.

• Pruning trees and shrubs, including roses is best done in early spring. Pruning in the fall can cause new growth to sprout which will be too weak to survive the winter.
  • The exception is if there are damaged branches or branches that are in the way. They should be removed.
• If you have oak trees, be aware there is a pathogen, Oak Wilt, that can be deadly to oaks. To help prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The insect that spreads the disease lays its eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Japanese beetles are almost done (at least in my garden). I’m only getting 4 or 5/day instead of lots. I count them as I flick them into a container of soapy water. It gives me great pleasure.
• You may notice some things are blooming either early or late. This is probably due to the erratic weather we’ve had since early spring. It’s not a long-term concern but I do hope there are some fall blooms left in late fall for the hungry pollinators. 
• Depending on the weather, mid to late August is a good time to start dividing and transplanting perennials. A few tips:
  • If it’s hot and dry hold off till the temps cool down and we get rain. It’s very stressful for a perennial to be dug up and replanted when it’s hot and dry especially if they are in the sun. They go into shock. Giving them some shade with a basket or box for a few days really helps. Transplanting in the shade is much more forgiving.
  • Cutting a tall perennial back a little to reduce the amount of greenery the newly moved plant has to support is less stressful for the plant.
  • Wait to divide until a plant has stopped blooming.
  • The old standard recommendation is if it blooms in the spring move it in the fall and if it blooms in summer/fall move it in spring.
  • This being said, there are many perennials you can divide and move anytime, daylilies. hosta, many groundcovers, and ferns among them.
  • Make sure the plants you move are well hydrated until the ground freezes.
• By mid-August you can stop fertilizing if that is part of your routine. The plants are slowing down and preparing for winter dormancy.
• Leave seed heads on plants as they provide winter food for birds.
• Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product. 
• A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.
• Spiders are more common in fall. Some people don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.
• Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if it’s hot, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler weather.
  • If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler weather. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.
  • When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.
  • If you do reseed make sure to keep the area well watered.

• Pruning trees and shrubs, including roses is best done in early spring. Pruning in the fall can cause new growth to sprout which will be too weak to survive the winter.
  • The exception is if there are damaged branches or branches that are in the way. They should be removed.
• If you have oak trees, be aware there is a pathogen, Oak Wilt, that can be deadly to oaks. To help prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The insect that spreads the disease lays its eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

• For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
• The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
• For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.