Dear Gardening Friends,  

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end May. If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease and makes even watering difficult. (I speak from experience)
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots.

• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• It’s best for nature not to remove too much leaf litter and plant stems left up over the winter as they are both good habitat for beneficial insects. So, when do you clean up? The best advice is to wait for a week of consistently above 50 temps. This gives the insects and larva a chance to come out.
• It’s OK to leave leaves in the garden as long as they aren’t smothering the crowns of plants/bulbs and prohibiting their growth.
• Thanks to the cool March there is still plenty of time to prune thanks to the slowdown of budding. Remember not to prune any spring blooming shrubs until after they bloom. If you need advice on pruning, call for a consultation. We can work through it together and you will learn proper pruning techniques for the future. You can also look up pruning advice on specific trees and shrubs at any “.edu” or botanical Garden site. Don’t go to chat rooms to get advice, it may not be accurate.
• If your tree/shrub has broken or damaged branches those should be pruned back to a main branch or stem. Don’t leave stubs is one of the basic rules of pruning. 
• Many damaged shrubs can just be cut back, and they will regrow. My Oak Leaf Hydrangea is so badly damaged from rabbits I’m going to cut the whole thing back about 8 inches from the ground and hope for the best.
• Before starting any pruning or gardening chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference. Even your shovels will dig better after cleaning and sharpening. You can use a regular knife/pruner sharpening blade for shovels. Give it a try, you’ll be amazed.
• Be mindful not to walk on the soft wet ground. If you leave a footprint, stay off. Whatever it is can wait till the soil dries out a little. As I write this there has been very little rain and the soil is firm.
• Rake or sweep up the road grit from the driveway and road edges. You can also rinse the area down with a hose to dilute the salt and road chemicals.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to:      http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• Don’t be in a rush to divide or move perennials. The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up for the next few weeks. A lot will depend on how much rain we get and how wet the soil is.
• If you’re dying to do some gardening, work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good washing/dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil, it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with a wire scrubber or brush.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat it.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

Dear Gardening Friends,  

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general. Check the contents of any product you use.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it. 
• If you have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient and let them melt out naturally. It’s more damaging to try and remove the branch.
• When there is a heavy snow build up on beaches you can gently brush it off. If the snow is frozen on the branch it’s best to leave it and let it melt naturally.
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners. You can use steel wool to remove rust and Goo Gone to remove the sticky sap build up. Don’t forget to clean and sharpen shovels also. It makes a huge difference and your tools will last a lifetime.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged or dead branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring. 
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength. Over fertilization is counter productive.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil can be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs, spider mites and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue or seeing webbing around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Pine boughs make an easy mulch. When people discard their Christmas trees, lower branches can be pruned off and placed over plants covering the crowns and root zones. These boughs are easily removed in the spring and discarded.
• If you have snow cover now keep the boughs for when it melts. If there is just a little snow you can put the boughs right over the snow where the plant is.
• Leaves are nature’s mulch. If you don’t have any leaves now, remember to leave them in your garden beds next fall or save some up for use as mulch.
• If leaves or boughs aren’t an option, you can use straw. One bale of straw will cover quite a number of plants.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Large pine boughs can also be used around small shrubs to keep the deer from munching. Simply stick the stems in the ground so the boughs are upright and cover the sides and top of the shrub. Works like a charm, it’s free and easy to do.
•  Straw can be used as winter mulch and purchased at a garden or farm supply store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The leaves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. I just discovered some mealy bugs on one plant and will examine all the plants carefully. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do with a particular pest.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix. Meanwhile, you can scrape the crusty soil off and cover with some fresh potting soil. 
• It’s best to wait on repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants until late Feb. Right now, they are resting for the winter and best not to disturb their “nap”.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Save yourself some time and leave the leaves in your garden beds. They are a wonderful winter protective blanket for the plants and also provide a much needed habitat for beneficial insects.
• Leaves can also be left in ground cover plants like pachysandra and myrtle. The leaves will trickle down and help protect the roots over the winter, decompose and feed the soil in spring. If there’s an area with thick piles of leaves, they can be easily dispersed by sweeping them into the ground cover with a broom. (I know that looks funny, but it works)
• Many perennials can be left up for winter. Anything with seed heads provides much needed food for winter birds. Also, many beneficial insects winter over or lay eggs in the stems. Besides I love how they look in winter with snow on them. Perennials with disease or insect infestation should be cut back and discarded.
• If you have extra leaves, they can be mulched with your lawn mower, bagged or piled whole and saved for use as mulch next season. The piles of leaves will naturally decompose and turn into “leaf mold” which is not moldy but is an excellent soil amendment.
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. Concrete or terra cotta planters & bird baths will crack during the winter, so be sure to get those put away. (I speak from experience) 
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. To empty the hose, start at one end and lift it up waist high before coiling it on the ground. Keep lifting and coiling until the whole hose is empty and coiled. This forces the water out the other end. Leaving hoses outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak.
• A handy way to store hoses is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 or 3 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable.
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while to put on the shrub coats. Shrubs protected with deer mesh fencing have already been installed. The mesh keeps deer from munching but is not good as winter wind protection.
• Shrubs that need protection from winter cold & winds should be wrapped in burlap or a shrub coat. Waiting until the leaves drop for shrub coats is OK.
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products. 
• Tools should not be stored while dirty. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Spotted Lantern Fly. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea is to use the water that’s left to siphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you all winter.
• Lucky us, there’s still plenty of time to weed! Every weed pulled now won’t be there in the spring.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• The temps have been below 50 a few nights so if you haven’t brought in your plants for the winter do it now. While the cooler temps won’t necessarily kill a houseplant or annual it makes the transition to indoor living and dry furnace heat less of a shock and they may not do as well. Be sure to wash them off well with soapy water and check for critters before bringing in.
• Another tip on bringing plants in is to keep them on the dry side for 2-3 weeks. Fungus gnats always seem to come in with the plants. Their larva live in the top few inches of the potting soil. If you keep that dry their cycle is stopped.
• Weed, weed, weed, you’ll thank yourself in the spring when those perennial weeds aren’t there.  Any annuals you can’t remove, at least cut off the seed heads (and remove) to reduce the seedlings next season. Besides weeding is a great way to notice things that need attention in the garden.
• Cut back and remove any perennial that has had a disease like black spot or powdery mildew and remove any leaves left on the soil. Do not compost diseased plant material, dispose of it.
• As far as moving perennials now, they need at least 4 weeks to settle their roots in before the soil gets below 50 degrees. That’s the iffy part. It’s impossible to predict. I moved some ground cover a week ago and am hoping for the mild weather to last. Anything transplanted this fall should be kept well watered until the ground freezes and mulch it well after the ground does freeze.
• Many perennials can be left up over winter. The crowns help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations and birds eat the seeds. There are also many beneficial insects which overwinter in the leaf litter or lay their eggs in the stems.
• If you have any potted perennials that you don’t get planted  you can store them in a garage, dig the pot into the soil or place it among ground cover and cover with leaves. The important thing is to prevent the roots from freezing. If you have an open compost pile you can dig them in there and cover with leaves. It’s a good idea to hold the leaves down with deer or bird netting so they don’t blow away over the winter. This also helps prevent small critters from digging in.
• As your annuals fade, pull them out roots and all. It’s easier to remove them before the frost makes them mushy. They can be added to the compost, soil on the roots as well.
• Although fall isn’t the best time to prune many trees and shrubs, any dead or damaged branches should be trimmed. This will eliminate the possibility of them breaking during a winter storm, and damaging home, garage, etc. Any branches that have grown large enough to be in the way or in danger of poking someone in the eye should also be removed.
• That being said, if a dead branch or tree, is not in the way of harming anything you can leave it up. Dead trees and branches are a wonderful habitat for beneficial insects and a natural bird feeder for woodpeckers and other insect eating birds.
• There’s still time to plant bulbs but do it soon as it’s best of they have time to set roots and make them strong for spring bloom. If you have trouble with critters digging up the bulbs, put a layer of pea gravel or small chicken wire just under the soil level as you fill the planting hole. This will keep them from digging.
• When you do the last mowing of the season leaves the mulched leaves on the lawn along with the grass clippings. It’s good “food” for the lawn.
• Speaking of leaves…SAVE THOSE LEAVES! Let the leaves protect your gardens, you can remove them in the spring if needed. Save any mulched leaves for use as mulch next spring. You can store them in a pile outside or in leaf bags. I keep my bags of mulched leaves under some trees for the winter and it’s ready to use in the spring. Mulched leaves are proving to be the most beneficial garden mulch as it helps improve the soil as well as keep the weeds down.
• Rain has been below normal for some areas this fall and average in others. It’s very important to keep your plants hydrated going into the winter. Anything planted this season is especially important to keep well watered.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Check them well for insets and signs of disease – A good soapy water bath is very

• Remove weak or damaged leaves.
• Give them a few days on the porch or other sheltered area where they can start adjusting to indoor light conditions.
• Watch carefully after they’re inside in case any hitchhikers came along.
• Then there is always weeding! Anytime is the right time to weed. The seeded annual weeds you remove now won’t be dropping seeds for next spring and the perennial weeds will be removed before they get larger and harder to deal with. This will be a chore until the first freeze. Definitely time well spent.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• With all the rain plants are really large, and so are the weeds. I have some dandelions that look like they’re on steroids. Weeding is a priority.
  • When digging a weed, make sure to get all the roots. Don’t just pull from the top unless it’s the type of weed that pulls easily, roots and all.  I just spent much of today pulling forget-me-nots as they were all over this year and were about to drop seed.
  • If you can’t get to weed, at least remove the seed head. This also goes for perennials that have a tendency to seed all over. Another chore I just completed was cutting back the seed heads on a few spring blooming perennials that seed readily.

• The soil has been wet more than dry and it has been difficult to plant, move & divide. It’s best for the plant to wait until the soil is more crumbly so the soil covers the roots well. If the soil is wet and clumpy this will not happen.

• Now that it’s much warmer it’s best to protect newly planted perennials or annuals from the hot sun. It’s helpful to cover them with a box, bushel basket or large pot to protect them from the heat and hot sun for a few days. It really cuts down on plant shock.

• Anything newly planted or moved should be watered almost daily depending on your conditions. Containers and hanging baskets need frequent watering as well if we don’t get rain.

• When you plant a new annual, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going. Make a bouquet out of the flowers so you can enjoy them. The annuals will send up more blooms.

• Early to mid-June is the ideal time to cut back perennials that get very tall to about 1/3 to  ½ to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum. Make sure to cut back to a leaf join and not leave stubs.

• With all the rain, slugs and snails are everywhere. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again. You can also sprinkle a little salt on them, and they will die. The best times to scout for slugs is early morning or evening. Plants with random holes are a good clue there are slugs around. Beer traps also work. It’s a real battle this year. For more info on slug control go to: https://cals.cornell.edu/new-york-state-integrated-pest-management/outreach-education/fact-sheets/slug-and-snail-control

• Keep your eye out for insects and diseases. It’s always best to first identify what it is and then what to do about it. I’ve already seen Powdery Mildew on my nine bark.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Weeding is also best done when the soil is not very wet. It’s harder to get all the roots out of the soil when it is a clump of mud.
• Mowing is another issue in this wet weather. If you leave a footprint on the lawn it’s best to stay off. Just think of the tracks your riding lawnmower (if you have one) will make in the soft soil.
• Unless your grass is long enough to leave big piles of grass clippings, it’s best to leave the clippings on the grass. It will decompose, feed the grass, and not cause thatch.
• It’s much too soon to put out annuals or vegetable starts.  For example, tomatoes planted too soon don’t do as well as those planted at the end of May. Remember Patience! The final average frost isn’t until late May so don’t get fooled by a few warm days.
• Due to the fluctuating temps many perennials are up early. Be careful when you are working in your gardens as there are a lot of plants that aren’t up yet and stepping on one or digging a shovel into the crown are things you want to avoid.
• If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease. 
• Once the soil warms and is workable May is an ideal time to divide or move perennials already in your gardens. Signs they need dividing are: overcrowding, lower bloom the previous season, and if plant has a bare spot in the center known as the donut hole. If after 3 years in a location a plant isn’t thriving, try moving it to a more suitable spot or share it with a friend.
• If you have problems with deer, rabbits and other critters start your spraying, fencing, caging or whatever you do. I’ve already had damage and quickly put up some caging and got out the deer spray. Since the plants are growing fast now, I spray susceptible plants every week until they reach full size then cut back to every 3-4 weeks. It’s a battle!
• When buying plants look for ones that are deer resistant. There are many excellent lists online including the one from Cornell below: warren.cce.cornell.edu › gardening-landscape › deer-resistant-plants
• RECYCLE pots & trays. I can use pots 4 inches and up and flat carrying trays. No 6 packs. Also, if you are discarding any Venetian blinds or see some in the garbage, please save them for me. I use the blinds for price tags for the plant sale.
• When plant shopping look for resistant plants. Ther are tomato plants resistant to blight, Phlox resistant to powdery mildew & roses resistant to black spot to mention a few.
• When looking for native plants be sure to look for the species name in Latin. If there is an English name (usually in parenthesis) after the name that means it’s a cultivar and may not produce the nectar, pollen and seed that pollinators and birds need. An example is Echinacea purpures, “Autumn Sunset”. The more we ask for true natives the more nurseries will offer them.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Don’t remove your leaves or winter mulch just yet. There are a lot of beneficial insects that overwinter in the ground duff (leaves and plant material on top of the soil). If some spring bulbs are trying to push through just rake some away and leave a light covering that the shoots can grow through.
• If you’ve left plant stems up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown.
• There is still plenty of time to prune thanks to the slow down of budding during the cold last week. Remember not to prune any spring blooming shrubs until after they bloom. If you need advice on pruning, call for a consultation. We can work through it together and you will learn proper pruning techniques for the future.
• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
• Be mindful not to walk on the soft wet ground. If you leave a footprint, stay off. Whatever it is can wait till the soil dries out a little.
• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. You can also rinse it down with a hose to dilute the salt and road chemicals.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to:      http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• If the freezing temps last week browned the tips of perennial foliage like day lilies that may have started growing, you can just cut the tip off. The new foliage should be OK.
• Don’t be in a rush to divide or move perennials. The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up for the next few weeks. A lot will depend on how much rain we get and how wet the soil is.
• If you’re dying to do some gardening, work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good washing/dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil, it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with a wire scrubber or brush.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat it.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance.
  • If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.
  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.
  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on pruners and shovels.
  • Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels too. It makes a huge difference.
• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• Broken or snapped branches should be pruned off back to the main trunk or nearest branch. DON’T LEAVE STUBS. That’s a basic rule of pruning.
• Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way. Also check for branches that are crossing each other and creating a wound from the rubbing.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to:

• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. It’s good to leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.
• It’s too soon to plant or divide perennials. The soil is too wet and cold and who knows what the weather will be like in March. It’s questionable we will be able to do anything other than clean up and prune by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation.
• It’s going to be interesting to see what March brings. It could be Spring or Winter.
• Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• As the snow melts lots of downed branches and debris shows up. Be very careful of walking on the soft ground to pick up branches. They can wait till the ground firms up. Anything you can reach from walkways, driveway etc. are fine to tackle.
• If you still have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient and let them melt out naturally. I still have a shrub in front near the street, that the snow mound hasn’t melted yet.
• Broken branches should be pruned off just outside of where the branch meets the tree. This is called the branch collar and is a raised section of the bark. If a branch has been pulled down but didn’t break off it also needs to be removed. If left the next snow may cause it to rip down further.
• If you have ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it. 
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is the perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring. 
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference. 
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Pine boughs make an easy mulch. When people discard their Christmas trees, lower branches can be pruned off and placed over plants covering the crowns and root zones. These boughs are easily removed in the spring and discarded.
• Leaves are nature’s mulch. If you don’t have any leaves at this point in time, remember to leave them in your garden beds next fall or save some up for use as mulch.
• If leaves or boughs aren’t an option, you can use straw. One bale of straw will cover quite a number of plants.

• Cut This Not That, Lessons in Pruning (I will be presenting this topic)
• Want to Start Your Own Seeds? This class will cover a variety of easy methods Including Winter Sowing

• 1 day/2 classes $20 (MG) $25 (public)
• 2 days/4 classes $35 (MG) $45 (public)

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Large pine boughs can also be used around small shrubs to keep the deer from munching. Simply stick the stems in the ground so the boughs are upright and cover the sides and top of the shrub. Works like a charm, it’s free and easy to do.
•  Straw can be used as winter mulch and purchased at a garden or farm supply store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The leaves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. I just discovered some mealy bugs on one plant and will examine all the plants carefully. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do with a particular pest.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix. Meanwhile, you can scrape the crusty soil off and cover with some fresh potting soil. 
• It’s best to wait on repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants until late Feb. Right now, they are resting for the winter and best not to disturb their “nap”.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Save yourself some time and leave the leaves in your garden beds. They are a wonderful winter protective blanket for the plants and also provide a much needed habitat for beneficial insects.
• Leaves can also be left in ground cover plants. The leaves will trickle own and help protect the roots over the winter, decompose and feed the soil in spring. If there’s an area with thick piles of leaves they can be easily dispersed by sweeping them into the ground cover with a broom. 
• Many perennials can also be left up for winter. Anything with seed heads provide much needed food for winter birds. Besides I love how they look in winter with snow on them. Perennials with disease or insect infestation should be cut back and discarded.
• If you have extra leaves, they can be mulched with your lawn mower, bagged or piled and saved for use as mulch next season. 
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. Concrete or terra cotta planters & bird baths will crack during the winter, so be sure to get those put away. (I speak from experience)
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. To empty the hose, start at one end and lift it up waist high before coiling it on the ground. Keep lifting and coiling until the whole hose is empty and coiled. This forces the water out the other end. Leaving hoses outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak.
• A handy way to store hoses is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 or 3 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable.
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while to put on the shrub coats. Shrubs protected with deer mesh I’ve already started covering. The mesh keeps deer from munching but is not good as a winter wind protection. Shrubs that need protection from winter winds should be wrapped in burlap or a shrub coat. Waiting until the leaves drop for shrub coats is OK.
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.
• Tools should not be stored while dirty. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Spotted Lantern Fly. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to siphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you all winter.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• It’s probably too late to take cuttings from annuals but if you have some healthy plants give it a try.
• When you bring in any annual or houseplants, remove any damaged leaves. Rinse them off thoroughly with a gentle spray hose and check for insects.
• You can wash the leaves with a Dawn or other mild detergent mixed with water. This can also be used to douche the soil to help get rid of small insects in the soil. Then rinse well. 
• Give the plants time to adjust to the move from outside to inside by putting them in a sheltered place for a few days. Ideally the plants can be moved into the house on a day when the outside and inside temps are close.
• Expect some yellowing and/or leaf drop as the plants adjust to being inside.
• Bringing any plant in usually is accompanied by the appearance of fungus gnats, those pesky little flies that fly in your face. Keep the soil dry and water from the bottom if possible. They reproduce in the top few inches of damp soil. Letting your plants dry out between waterings really helps.

• Start planning now for protection from rabbits, deer, and cold winds. As winter approaches you will be ready to take the appropriate steps.

• Leave the ones that fall in the gardens. Leaves make an effective and free winter mulch. They help protect the crowns from temperature fluctuations.
• Gather mulched leaves for use in compost or save for mulch next spring. They can be stored in large plastic bags.
• If you have a mulching lawn mower leave the mulched leaves and grass in place after the last mowing of the season. It will decompose and feed the grass. If the leaves are really thick in spots spread them around.

• If you have to move a perennial but don’t know where to plant it, pot it up in potting soil and winter over in a protected area.
• If you have an area of groundcover that is out of the wind, put the potted plants right in the groundcover and cover with leaves. Burying the pot in the compost pile and covering with leaves also works well.  If your garage isn’t heated that is another option, again cover with leaves.
• Cut back and remove any perennial that has had a disease like black spot or powdery mildew and remove any leaves left on the soil. Do not compost diseased plant material, dispose of it.
• Many perennials can be left up over winter. The crowns help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations and birds eat the seeds. There are also many beneficial insects which overwinter in the leaf litter or lay their eggs in the stems. In winter I really enjoy seeing the plants peeking up through the snow.

• The Town & Country Garden Club is sponsoring my program on Using Native Plants in Your Garden, Thursday, October 12, from 2-4pm, at the Audubon Public Library, 350 John James Audubon Pkwy.  Seating is limited.  If interested call the library at 716-689-4922 to reserve a seat.
• October is a big month for University Express classes. Check out their full schedule online at: https://www4.erie.gov/universityexpress/  All classes are free and open to the public. I will be offering Fall Is For Gardening at the following locations:
  • 10/2 – 1:00 PM at W. Seneca Sr. Center
  • 10/16 – 1:00 PM at Town of Tonawanda Library
  • 10/20 – 10:30 AM at Orchard Park Senior Center

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Check them well for insets and signs of disease
• Remove weak or damaged leaves
• Wash well with soapy water (a squirt of Dawn in water works well)
• Give them a few days on the porch or other sheltered area where they can start adjusting to indoor light conditions.
• Watch carefully after they’re inside in case any hitch hikers came along.

Dear Gardening Friends,   

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Watering deeply is the key. The moisture must go down where the roots are. The top of the soil can appear moist or dry depending on the circumstances but don’t be fooled by the top few inches of soil. Take a trowel or shovel and make a divot to see if the soil is moist down 6-8 inches.
• The soil in a sunny area can dry out quickly so it’s important to check the moisture where the roots are. There are moisture probes you can purchase that are very helpful.
• I’m not lucky enough to have a drip irrigation system so use a sprinkler. It’s helpful to put a can or jar out near the sprinkler so you can tell how much water is being spread. An inch a week is typical but in this heat it’s definitely not enough. My sprinkler is on for about an hour in the shady areas and almost 2 hours in the sunny, dry sections. Sounds like a long time but you won’t have to water as often.
• Mulching is an excellent way to help the soil retain whatever moisture it gets. Without that protective covering the water evaporates quickly.
• Now that we’ve covered watering it will probably be a rainy June. That would be fine with me.
• Because of the weather I’m not moving/dividing perennials anymore. Had many more plants on the list to be moved &/or divided but now those chores will have to wait till fall. 
• For newly planted perennials or annuals it’s helpful to cover them with a box, bushel basket or large pot to protect them from the heat and hot sun for a few days. It really cuts down on plant shock.
• Anything newly planted or moved should be watered almost daily depending on your conditions. Containers and hanging baskets need frequent watering as well.
• When you plant a new perennial, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going. Make a bouquet out of the flowers so you can enjoy them.
• Early to mid-June is the ideal time to cut back perennials that get very tall to about ½ to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum. Make sure to cut back to a leaf join and not leave stubs.
• Watch out for slugs and snails. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.
• Keep your eye out for insects and diseases. It’s always best to first identify what it is and then what to do about it.
• Weeding is a huge priority. Don’t let them get ahead of you. Once they are well established weeds are much more difficult to remove and they drop seeds to make more weeds for you to deal with. Once you weed, a good layer of mulch will help hold down the weeds and keep moisture from evaporating as quickly.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end May. If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease.
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots.

• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• If you’re dying to do some gardening work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with steel wool.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

• There’s lots you can do outside. Whatever you do be mindful of not walking on the soft soil. If you can see your footprint don’t go on the soil.
  • Lots of sticks and branches are down after our damaging winter. Pick up the ones you can reach.
  • This is the ideal time to prune most trees or shrubs (that don’t bloom in the spring).
  • If your tree/shrub has broken or damaged branches those should be pruned back to a main branch or stem. Don’t leave stubs is one of the basic rules of pruning.
  • If a shrub, like an arb, is splayed you can try wrapping it up with twine (not plastic cord). It should be OK.
  • Some trees may just have to be removed. Check with an arborist for an assessment of the damage.
  • Many damaged shrubs can just be cut back, and they will regrow. My Bottle Brush Buckeye is so badly damaged I’m going to cut the whole thing back about 6 inches from the ground and hope for the best.
  • Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.

• Other timely tips
  • Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
  • There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
  • Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
  • Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
  • The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432