Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Watering deeply is the key. The moisture must go down where the roots are. The top of the soil can appear moist or dry depending on the circumstances but don’t be fooled by the top few inches of soil. Take a trowel or shovel and make a divot to see if the soil is moist down 6-8 inches.
• The soil in a sunny area can dry out quickly so it’s important to check the moisture where the roots are. There are moisture probes you can purchase that are very helpful.
• I’m not lucky enough to have a drip irrigation system so use a sprinkler. It’s helpful to put a can or jar out near the sprinkler so you can tell how much water is being spread. An inch a week is typical but in this heat it’s definitely not enough. My sprinkler is on for about an hour in the shady areas and almost 2 hours in the sunny, dry sections. Sounds like a long time but you won’t have to water as often.
• Mulching is an excellent way to help the soil retain whatever moisture it gets. Without that protective covering the water evaporates quickly.
• Now that we’ve covered watering it will probably be a rainy June. That would be fine with me.
• Because of the weather I’m not moving/dividing perennials anymore. Had many more plants on the list to be moved &/or divided but now those chores will have to wait till fall. 
• For newly planted perennials or annuals it’s helpful to cover them with a box, bushel basket or large pot to protect them from the heat and hot sun for a few days. It really cuts down on plant shock.
• Anything newly planted or moved should be watered almost daily depending on your conditions. Containers and hanging baskets need frequent watering as well.
• When you plant a new perennial, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going. Make a bouquet out of the flowers so you can enjoy them.
• Early to mid-June is the ideal time to cut back perennials that get very tall to about ½ to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum. Make sure to cut back to a leaf join and not leave stubs.
• Watch out for slugs and snails. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.
• Keep your eye out for insects and diseases. It’s always best to first identify what it is and then what to do about it.
• Weeding is a huge priority. Don’t let them get ahead of you. Once they are well established weeds are much more difficult to remove and they drop seeds to make more weeds for you to deal with. Once you weed, a good layer of mulch will help hold down the weeds and keep moisture from evaporating as quickly.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance.
  • If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.
  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.
  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on pruners and shovels.
  • Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• If some of your trees or shrubs are still bent over from the snow and ice wait till it warms up a little and they straighten out.
• Broken or snapped branches should be pruned off back to the main trunk or nearest branch. DON’T LEAVE STUBS. That’s a basic rule of pruning.
• Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way. Also check for branches that are crossing each other and creating a wound from the rubbing.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.
• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation
• It’s going to be interesting to see what March brings. It could be Spring or Winter.
• Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs. His books will be available for sale. 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• If you still have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient an let them melt out naturally. I still have a shrub in front near the street, that the snow mound never totally melted. At this rate it may be there till spring!
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener 

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.
• There are many arbs and other shrubs that are totally bent over. It’s so tempting to try to straighten them but leaving them for now is the best approach.
• If a whole tree has come over and you can right it and cover the roots wit soil it may survive. You’ll probably have to stake it for support until next summer when the roots have taken hold.
• Gathering lower branches from discarded Christmas trees makes an excellent winter mulch to protect tender perennials from temperature fluctuation 
• This is a good time to spend time with your houseplants.
  • Give them a bath to wipe off the accumulated dust and grease. This is especially important for plants in the kitchen where grease is more of an issue.
  • If the plant is small enough, you can take them to the sink and spray them with tepid water. It’s also good to let the water drain through the soil. This helps rinse out accumulated salts.
  • For larger plants you can wipe down the leaves with a mild soapy water cloth or sponge. Then wipe with clear water.
  • Give your plants a haircut. Remove damaged or dead leaves or prune to control size.
  • Check for insects. Sticky residue on leaves or surfaces around the plant is caused by insect droppings. Check the plant carefully to see what insect is there. The most common are aphids, spider mites, white fly or scale.
  • To help in ID check “houseplant pests” on the Cornell website. The site will also have suggestions for control.
• January is when many of us start dreaming of spring and gardening. It’s a good time to plan for improvements and changes. Make a list of what worked and what didn’t then list ideas for what to do next season.
• There are some great educational opportunities coming up that can help in your planning.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening 
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth. 
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a ”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book n hydrangeas will speak on  Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

•  Nature’s Best Hope, by Doug Tallamy. This book covers a new approach to conservation which starts in your yard.
•  Deer Resistant Native Plants for the Northeast, by Ruth Rogers Clausen and Gregory Tipper. A wonderful resource for anyone with deer issues. Covers detailed information about each plant.
• A Lessons from Nature gift certificate for a garden consult or perennials from the plant sale next May.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Watering has to be a priority and the way you water is important.
  • Most pots in the sun will nee watering every day. If it is a very full pot possibly 2/day. Ones in the shade probably less. Watering until the water runs out the bottom of the pot ensures the whole pot is moistened. The way to tell if a pot needs watering is to poke your finger into the soil down a few inches. If the soil is moist you don’t have to water. Overwatering in pots can be as harmful as underwatering.
  • For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
  • Don’t worry if your grass starts to turn brown. Grass naturally goes dormant in dry periods, and it doesn’t harm the grass. It will green up with the next rain.
  • The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
  • For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.
• This past week I’ve seen a few Japanese beetles. If you get the first ones, you will decrease the total amount that find you. Check the plants you know they prefer. Get out a container with a few inches of soapy water and knock the little buggers in. Gives me great satisfaction. For more info: https://blogs.cornell.edu/willow/files/2014/10/Japanese-Beetle-Popillia-japonica-fact-sheet-16vi6b4.pdf
• An insect that is in abundance this season is 4 lined plant bug. It’s a small yellow and black striped true bug that has a piercing mouth part that leaves small round dark circles in the leaves. Fortunately, this doesn’t kill the plants, but it is unsightly. They lay their eggs in the stems of the effected plants so at the end of the season cutting down those stems helps reduce the infestation next year. For more info: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/four-lined-plant-bug/
• I’ve also seen signs of powdery mildew. This is a whiteish coating on the leaves. For plants like phlox that are susceptible to fungal disease you can start treatment before it shows symptoms. Treat with an environmentally safe fungicide specific to your problem. Remove affected leaves and disinfect your pruner and hands before moving to another plant. For more info:  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/powdery-mildew/
• If you fertilize your plants, it’s best to do it when the soil is moist. Natural fertilizers are much better for the plants and soil than chemical ones. Chemical fertilizers contain salts which kill the natural microbes in the soil which are what feed the plants. Chemical fertilizer is OK for pots as that soil is discarded each year.
• Because of the intense heat it’s best to wait till fall to do any transplanting. It’s very stressful for the plants. If you have to move something, give the plant some shelter from the sun with a box or umbrella for a few days and keep it well watered.
• If any of you are having problems with the lily leaf beetle (a small red beetle on true lilies) try a squirt of Dawn dish liquid in a spray bottle of water. A few people have said that helps. I’ve seen them on tricyrtis (toad lily) this year so check out those as well. For more information check:

• Then there’s weeding… Just when you think you’re finished more pop up. Try and keep up or at least remove or deadhead weeds before they drop seed. If you haven’t mulched this will help control the weeds.

 
Gardening events in July:
 
Garden Walk Buffalo, Open Garens and the weekend community garden walks are up and running. Open Gardens are every Thursday and Friday in July. Unfortunately my gardens will not be open this year.
 
For information and schedules go to https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/ or buffaloniagaragardening,com. The Open Garden books which include all activities are also available at select nurseries and some of the Open Gardens.
 
The East Aurora Garden Walk will be July 16 & 17, 10:00 – 3:00. My gardens will be open that weekend. Stop by and say hello.
 
 
Lessons from Nature events:
 
I will start hypertufa and concrete birdbath and steppingstone classes in a few weeks. Each class is $30 and you get to make 2. Contact me and we can set up a class of up to 4 people.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

Because of the few mild spring like days we’ve had we have to remember it is March and spring could be a long way off. This has been an unusual winter so it’s hard to know what to expect. We just must be patient and know spring WILL come eventually. The following are some ideas of what you can do now to prepare for the gardening season.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

• Take advantage of the continuing cold weather to get your garden tools cleaned and sharpened.

• If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance. If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.

• Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.

• Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on shovels as well as pruners. Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)

• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.

• I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If it’s done it when the soil is very wet or still frozen the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.

• Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.

• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.

• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.

• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.

• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.

Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.

Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz

Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 12 from 9:00am – 3:00pm.  

We are excited to announce his year’s Education Day will be in person. This will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:

Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:

 Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden

Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow

Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:

Floriferous Design

The cost is, $45 for MG’s, $60 for the public. Morning break with snacks and hot buffet lunch included.
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 652-5400 ext. 176.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help with pruning, improve your garden and gardening practices and save you money!
 

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera

Lessons from Nature

170 Pine St.

E. Aurora, NY 14052

lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz

652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• If you collected pine boughs for winter plant protection and there’s too much snow to put them out, just save them in the garage or a pile and put them out when the snow melts.
• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• We’ve had a lot of wind lately so it’s a good time to pick up sticks and debris.
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring.

• This is a good time to prune. First check for wind damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Believe it or not you can still plant those bulbs in the garage! As long as the ground isn’t frozen you can plant them.
• Since there isn’t any snow cover (at least as I write this here in E Aurora) there is time to finish those fall chores you didn’t get to like bringing in plant stakes and supports. I just completed that core this week.
• Anything else like garden art, birdbaths or pots should be brought in the garage, basement or wherever you keep things that will be damaged by winters snow and ice.
• If you still have unplanted trees or shrubs that can be planted as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Left over potted perennials can be dug into the ground or compost pile. They can also be placed together in ground cover or in the garage and covered with leaves or straw to protect from temperature fluctuations.
• Perennial weeds can be removed if you can reach them without stepping on the soft soil. Imagine weeding in January!
• Many of the perennials left up will get knocked over by snow or wind. That’s OK. They form a nice winter protection for the root systems.
• Check out last month’s Garden Tips on my website (lessonsfromnature.biz) for more tips on winter protection. Since we haven’t had much snow it’s necessary to offer some added protection from temperature fluctuations AND critters.

• Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
• Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.

Dear Gardening Friends,
 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Leaves work well also. Instead of raking them all to the street save a few bags or piles to much those tender perennials.
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• This is a good time to prune away any branches that have been or might be damaged from winter wind or in the way. Make sure to trim back to a branch join and not leave stubs. Most other pruning should wait till late winter/early spring.
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.