Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Watering deeply is the key. The moisture must go down where the roots are. The top of the soil can appear moist or dry depending on the circumstances but don’t be fooled by the top few inches of soil. Take a trowel or shovel and make a divot to see if the soil is moist down 6-8 inches.
• The soil in a sunny area can dry out quickly so it’s important to check the moisture where the roots are. There are moisture probes you can purchase that are very helpful.
• I’m not lucky enough to have a drip irrigation system so use a sprinkler. It’s helpful to put a can or jar out near the sprinkler so you can tell how much water is being spread. An inch a week is typical but in this heat it’s definitely not enough. My sprinkler is on for about an hour in the shady areas and almost 2 hours in the sunny, dry sections. Sounds like a long time but you won’t have to water as often.
• Mulching is an excellent way to help the soil retain whatever moisture it gets. Without that protective covering the water evaporates quickly.
• Now that we’ve covered watering it will probably be a rainy June. That would be fine with me.
• Because of the weather I’m not moving/dividing perennials anymore. Had many more plants on the list to be moved &/or divided but now those chores will have to wait till fall. 
• For newly planted perennials or annuals it’s helpful to cover them with a box, bushel basket or large pot to protect them from the heat and hot sun for a few days. It really cuts down on plant shock.
• Anything newly planted or moved should be watered almost daily depending on your conditions. Containers and hanging baskets need frequent watering as well.
• When you plant a new perennial, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going. Make a bouquet out of the flowers so you can enjoy them.
• Early to mid-June is the ideal time to cut back perennials that get very tall to about ½ to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum. Make sure to cut back to a leaf join and not leave stubs.
• Watch out for slugs and snails. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.
• Keep your eye out for insects and diseases. It’s always best to first identify what it is and then what to do about it.
• Weeding is a huge priority. Don’t let them get ahead of you. Once they are well established weeds are much more difficult to remove and they drop seeds to make more weeds for you to deal with. Once you weed, a good layer of mulch will help hold down the weeds and keep moisture from evaporating as quickly.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end May. If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease.
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots.

• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Lessons from Nature
Plant List for Perennial Sale
May 20, 2023

 
Some varieties there are only 1 or 2 of, others quite a few. A few items aren’t even up yet so additional plants will be added during the weeks to come. First come first served.
 
170 Pine Street, E Aurora
Sat, May 20 – 9:00-2:00
 
Shrubs:
                                              
Pussy Willow                                         Little Kim Lilac
Lynwood Gold Forsythia                       Bridal Veil Spirea
Shrubby St. Johns Wort                       Spicebush  
Flowering Raspberry                            Twisted willow (tree)
Anabelle hydrangea
                        
Sun:
                                                                                             
Perennial geranium                    Shasta daisy                                     Sundrops                                    Zig-zag goldenrod
Variety of asters                          Bouncing Bet                                               
Barren Strawberry                     Monkshood
Black-Eyed-Susan                     Daisy Fleabane
Filipendula                                 Crainsbill Geranium
Sunflower                                   Phloz
Mini Cranesbill Geranium
                                
Part Sun:
                                           
Forget-Me-Not                           Anemone – white, & ruffled
Dwarf  Solomon’s seal              Candelabra primrose                                
Ladies Mantle                           Shredded Umbrella
Astilbe (dwarf)                          Stary Solomon’s Seal
White wood anemone            Corydalis –Yellow & white                     
Blue lobelia                              Bouncing bet
Astilbe – variety of colors        Sundrops
Golden ragwort                       Wood pea
Bachelor buttons                     Blue Wood Aster
White Wood Aster                   Ajuga                                   
Gold Star                                 Bleeding Heart
Kirengeshoma                         Clematis
Rodgesia                                  Brunnera
Japanese hydrangea              Chocolate snake root
                                           
                                    
Shade:
                                           
Dwarf Comfrey                          Hosta – a few varieties, minis
Persicaria                                  Primrose
Toad Lily                                    Pulmonaria –
European Ginger                      Lenten Rose, white, pink & deep purple 
Curley Ginger                            Native ginger
Primula kisoana – rare variety   Candelabra primrose                                
Corydalis                                    Astilboides tabularis    
Wood Poppy                              Bloodroot, single & double
Brunnera                                    Twin leaf
Early & Tall Meadow Rue          White Violet
Japanese Painted Fern              Ostrich Fern
Tall meadow rue                         Early meadow rue
Double green trillium                 Pink lily of the valley
Goldenseal                                 Sweet woodruff
Marsh marigold                          Water leaf                                                                                     
                                                                                             
         Natives:
 
Evening Primrose                      Tall Meadow Rue
Solomon’s Seal                          Twinleaf
Ginger                                        Golden Ragwort
Gold Star                                     Goldenseal                   
Blue Wood Aster                        Early Meadow Rue
Ostrich fern                                Clematis
White Wood Aster                      Wood Poppy
Bloodroot                                    Marsh marigold
Filapendula                                White violet
Flowering raspberry                    Lobelia – blue
Waterleaf                                     Double Bloodroot
Zig-zag goldenrod                       Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Monkshood                                  Starry Solomon's seal
Chocolate snake root
 

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• If you’re dying to do some gardening work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with steel wool.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

• There’s lots you can do outside. Whatever you do be mindful of not walking on the soft soil. If you can see your footprint don’t go on the soil.
  • Lots of sticks and branches are down after our damaging winter. Pick up the ones you can reach.
  • This is the ideal time to prune most trees or shrubs (that don’t bloom in the spring).
  • If your tree/shrub has broken or damaged branches those should be pruned back to a main branch or stem. Don’t leave stubs is one of the basic rules of pruning.
  • If a shrub, like an arb, is splayed you can try wrapping it up with twine (not plastic cord). It should be OK.
  • Some trees may just have to be removed. Check with an arborist for an assessment of the damage.
  • Many damaged shrubs can just be cut back, and they will regrow. My Bottle Brush Buckeye is so badly damaged I’m going to cut the whole thing back about 6 inches from the ground and hope for the best.
  • Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.

• Other timely tips
  • Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
  • There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
  • Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
  • Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
  • The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance.
  • If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.
  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.
  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on pruners and shovels.
  • Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• If some of your trees or shrubs are still bent over from the snow and ice wait till it warms up a little and they straighten out.
• Broken or snapped branches should be pruned off back to the main trunk or nearest branch. DON’T LEAVE STUBS. That’s a basic rule of pruning.
• Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way. Also check for branches that are crossing each other and creating a wound from the rubbing.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.
• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation
• It’s going to be interesting to see what March brings. It could be Spring or Winter.
• Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs. His books will be available for sale. 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• If you still have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient an let them melt out naturally. I still have a shrub in front near the street, that the snow mound never totally melted. At this rate it may be there till spring!
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener 

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.
• There are many arbs and other shrubs that are totally bent over. It’s so tempting to try to straighten them but leaving them for now is the best approach.
• If a whole tree has come over and you can right it and cover the roots wit soil it may survive. You’ll probably have to stake it for support until next summer when the roots have taken hold.
• Gathering lower branches from discarded Christmas trees makes an excellent winter mulch to protect tender perennials from temperature fluctuation 
• This is a good time to spend time with your houseplants.
  • Give them a bath to wipe off the accumulated dust and grease. This is especially important for plants in the kitchen where grease is more of an issue.
  • If the plant is small enough, you can take them to the sink and spray them with tepid water. It’s also good to let the water drain through the soil. This helps rinse out accumulated salts.
  • For larger plants you can wipe down the leaves with a mild soapy water cloth or sponge. Then wipe with clear water.
  • Give your plants a haircut. Remove damaged or dead leaves or prune to control size.
  • Check for insects. Sticky residue on leaves or surfaces around the plant is caused by insect droppings. Check the plant carefully to see what insect is there. The most common are aphids, spider mites, white fly or scale.
  • To help in ID check “houseplant pests” on the Cornell website. The site will also have suggestions for control.
• January is when many of us start dreaming of spring and gardening. It’s a good time to plan for improvements and changes. Make a list of what worked and what didn’t then list ideas for what to do next season.
• There are some great educational opportunities coming up that can help in your planning.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening 
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth. 
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a ”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book n hydrangeas will speak on  Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

•  Nature’s Best Hope, by Doug Tallamy. This book covers a new approach to conservation which starts in your yard.
•  Deer Resistant Native Plants for the Northeast, by Ruth Rogers Clausen and Gregory Tipper. A wonderful resource for anyone with deer issues. Covers detailed information about each plant.
• A Lessons from Nature gift certificate for a garden consult or perennials from the plant sale next May.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432