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    Lyn Chimera is a Master Gardener, consultant and lecturer.

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Reducing Lawn

9/1/2021

 
By: Lyn Chimera

Whether you live in the city, suburbs or in a rural area, lawns are a big part of the landscape. People have treated lawns as a status symbol for centuries. The movement began in Europe where having a manicured lawn was only available to the wealthy who could afford the workforce to keep it looking good.

Unfortunately having that perfectly manicured lawn is still a status symbol for many people. They want their lawn to look like a golf course. Anyone who has tried to have that perfect lawn realizes what a lot of work it is to keep it that way. Not only is it time consuming but costly as well. There’s the lawn mower which needs gas and yearly maintenance, fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides which are not only tough on the pocketbook but very hard on the environment
Let’s look at a few facts. Lawns across America use about 9 BILLION gallons of water a DAY! That’s the main reason during the drought out west watering lawns has been banned. The EPA reports that 50% of that water is wasted through evaporation and run off. According to 1971 NASA report lawns take up 3 times as much space as the next irrigated crop, corn. On top of that around 90 million pounds of fertilizers and about 75 million pounds of pesticides are used per year.
Just why do we have all this lawn? What do we actually use it for? Some turf is productive like athletic fields, golf courses and recreational areas. We have to ask ourselves if this is the best use of our landscape space.

There has been much written about habitat loss and the reduction of much needed pollinators, birds and other forms of life. Lawn doesn’t support any of that. Nature needs our help and that’s why so many people are reducing their lawn and developing more sustainable landscaping. This movement has been dubbed “unlawning”. There are many ways to reduce your lawn and have that space contribute to nature.

One of the fastest growing ways to reduce lawn is to grow vegetables, fruit trees and berries. Many people have vegetable gardens in their back yards, but front yard gardens are gaining in popularity. Often the front or side yard is the only place that has enough sun to support growing food crops. Growing some of your own food not only enables your garden to be productive for nature but provides your family with fresh pesticide free fruits and vegetables. Fruits and vegetables need pollinators so you’re supporting nature.

There are many ways to incorporate food crops; raised beds, in ground garden, containers or interspersed among your perennials. Meanwhile you won’t have so much lawn to take care of.
Another option for unlawning is to transform some of the lawn space to meadow or pollinator gardens. This doesn’t mean you have to have an unkept field in your front yard. A section of lawn could be parceled out to be a pollinator garden/meadow. These sections could be shaped and mowed around to make it look more purposeful. The same effect can happen with wide mowed paths through the area. Organizing like species of plants rather than a general mixture also makes the meadow look more organized and like a garden if that is the look you prefer. Using native plants that support nature are the most effective plants to replace some lawn. They are beautiful and are the easiest way homeowners can help support nature and be sustainable. For ideas on how this might look check out: https://unlawningamerica.societyrne.net/unlawning-strategies.html

I’m not trying to suggest everyone eliminate their lawns. Rather rethink areas that you don’t use that might be more sustainable for your families and nature. If you don’t want to reduce the amount of lawn, at least consider not using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Lawns will do just fine without them. Also you don’t have to water the lawn. Grasses naturally go dormant when it’s dry. They will green up with the first rain.


Happy Gardening!
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September 2021 Gardening Tips

9/1/2021

 
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Dear Gardening Friends,

 
Hard to believe it’s September with the weather we’ve been having. I’m actually looking forward to the cooler weather.
 
September is definitely NOT the end of the garden season but the beginning of preparing for winter and spring. The following are a few tips:
 
  • The first step is to assess what you think needs to be done. I like walking around the garden with a notebook and writing down ideas of what should be divided, moved, or eliminated as well as what you’d like to add or change for next year.
  • Second, I prioritize chores into things to be accomplished this fall and those that can wait until spring. Some of which depend on the weather and of course how long my energy lasts! 
  • When the weather starts cooling down and we get more consistent rain it will be time to start dividing and moving perennials. I have been holding off until the weather cooperates as it’s really hard on plants to be moved in this dry heat.
  • Reasons for moving and/or dividing can be:
    • When a plant develops a “doughnut hole” or bare spot in the middle of the clump.
    • If a perennial has become overcrowded &/or oversized.
    • If a plant isn’t performing well where it has been for a few years. You can move it to a more appropriate location to meet its growing needs or share with a friend.
    • You just don’t like the way it looks in that spot.
  • Fall clean up will depend on the weather. I tend to leave up perennials that don’t have disease or insect infestation. The seed heads feed the birds and the crowns of the plants help protect them from winter temperature fluctuations.
    • Plants with powdery mildew should be cut back to the base and all stray leaves cleaned up from the ground. This is important as the fungal spores can winter over if left.
    • Plants that had 4 lined plant bug damage (small lines of black spots on the leaves) should be cut to the base as the insect lays its eggs in the stems of affected plants.
  • Weeding is an important fall job. The seeded annual weeds you remove won’t be dropping seeds for next spring and the perennial weeds will be removed before they get larger and harder to deal with. This will be a chore until the first freeze.
  • Many people ask about pruning in the fall.
    • Most pruning should be done late winter early spring including roses, trees, and shrubs.
    • The exception is spring blooming trees and shrubs. They should be pruned right after blooming.
    • Another exception is any branches that are in the way, damaged or dead. Dead plant material can be removed anytime.
  • Fall is an ideal time to plant grass seed but wait for cooler weather and look for grass seed that is appropriate for your site. Don’t forget to keep it watered. 
  • It’s a good time to plant trees and shrubs. Check local nurseries for sales.
    • Perennials will be on sale as well. Check sale plants, trees and shrubs carefully for signs of insects and disease. An unhealthy or infested plant is no bargain.
    • Trees and shrubs, as well as perennials should be planted when they will have at least 4 weeks for their roots to settle in and should be well watered until the soil freezes.
  • Now is also a good time to plant bulbs. They will have time to settle in before the ground freezes.

 
Educational Opportunity:
 
Master Gardener Fall Gardening Classes will be held live this year and you won’t want to miss them. All classes will be held at CCE, East Aurora
 
Tuesday, September 14, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Mackenzie Schuler, Lockwood’s Garden Center
‘Growing Succulents Indoors and Outdoors’: Learn about special soil, watering, and sunlight exposure needs to care for these popular and unusual plants.
 
Wednesday, September 22, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Nate Morey, NYS DEC Forestry Region 9
‘Caring for Trees and Shrubs’: Choose the right tree for your site and learn how to plant,
fertilize, water and protect it from disease and invasive insects.
 
Saturday, September 25, 10:00 – 11:30 am
Emere Nieves, Community Garden Trainer
‘Worm Composting’: An alternative to traditional composting, worm composting
recycles food scraps and other organic material into a nutrient rich soil amendment.
 
Cost: Individual class: $15, Public: 3 classes for $45, Master Gardeners: 3 classes for $40
Registration information at: erie.cce.cornell.edu
 
Fall Perennial Sale: Lessons from Nature, 170 Pine Street E Aurora
 
My garden is overflowing with plants that can’t wait till spring to be divided. The sale will be by pre-order only. Let me know what you want, and I will let you know when you can pick them up.
If you have any questions about the plants just let me know. (Contact info below)
 
Native white violet                             Large blue hosta
Lenten Rose seedlings                                    Med. Late blooming hosta
Brunnera                                             Native Big leaf aster
Native Gold Star                                 Native Wood Poppy
Tricyrtis                                              Dwarf Astilbe
White & Yellow Corydalis                 Native Chocolate Snake Root
Curly Ginger                                       Dragon Arum
Pachysandra                                        Native White Wood Aster
Tansy                                                  Holly Fern
Native Flowering raspberry                Native Golden Ragwort
Native Amsonia                                  Native Blue Wood Aster
Native Shrubby St. John’s Wort         Persicaria
Forget-Me-Not                                    Native White Snake Root
Joe Pye weed             
 
Garden Consult:
 
Late summer is when you can assess your successes and failures and make improvements for next year. What to keep, what to get rid of or what to move. A Garden Consultation can help you decide what worked, what didn’t, why these issues occurred, and what you can do about them. Call or e-mail to set up an appointment.
 
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
716-652-2432

 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

 
Don’t know about you but I’m ready to wish July a fond farewell. Many of you had way too much rain but the bright side is we didn’t have to drag hoses around for much of the time. On top of the rain there was more than enough heat and humidity for me. Let’s hope August is a little more even weather wise. Below are some tips for August in the garden.
  • Japanese beetles are almost done (at least in my garden). I’m only getting 4 or 5/day instead of lots. I count them as I flick them into a container of soapy water. It gives me great pleasure.
  • You may notice some things are blooming either early or late. This is probably due to the erratic weather we’ve had since early spring. It’s not a long-term concern but I do hope there are some fall blooms left in late fall for the hungry pollinators. 
  • Depending on the weather, mid to late August is a good time to start dividing and transplanting perennials. A few tips:
    • If it’s hot and dry hold off till the temps cool down and we get rain. It’s very stressful for a perennial to be dug up and replanted when it’s hot and dry especially if they are in the sun. They go into shock. Giving them some shade with a basket or box for a few days really helps. Transplanting in the shade is much more forgiving.
    • Cutting a tall perennial back a little to reduce the amount of greenery the newly moved plant has to support is less stressful for the plant.
    • Wait to divide until a plant has stopped blooming.
    • The old standard recommendation is if it blooms in the spring move it in the fall and if it blooms in summer/fall move it in spring.
    • This being said, there are many perennials you can divide and move anytime, daylilies. hosta, many groundcovers, and ferns among them.
    • Make sure the plants you move are well hydrated until the ground freezes.
  • By mid-August you can stop fertilizing if that is part of your routine. The plants are slowing down and preparing for winter dormancy.
  • Leave seed heads on plants as they provide winter food for birds.
  • Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product. 
  • A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.
  • Spiders are more common in fall. Some people don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.
  • Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if it’s hot, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler weather.
    • If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler weather. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.
    • When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.
    • If you do reseed make sure to keep the area well watered.
  • Pruning trees and shrubs, including roses is best done in early spring. Pruning in the fall can cause new growth to sprout which will be too weak to survive the winter.
    • The exception is if there are damaged branches or branches that are in the way. They should be removed.
  • If you have oak trees, be aware there is a pathogen, Oak Wilt, that can be deadly to oaks. To help prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The insect that spreads the disease lays its eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

Perennials for sale:
 
My gardens have become quite overgrown from a combination of the spring weather turning hot so quickly I didn’t get a chance to do all the dividing I planned and the rain we’ve had this past month. It’s starting to look like a jungle out there! As a result, I will have some plants to sell this fall. This will be by preorder only. I will let you know what’s available in the September Garden Tips.
 
Garden Consultations:
 
If you’ve been experiencing difficulties with your garden or would like to make improvements for next year, give me a call. Now is the perfect time to plan changes and improvements for next year.
 
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
lyn@lessonsfromnature.biz
652-2432
 
 
 
 
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