Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Large pine boughs can also be used around small shrubs to keep the deer from munching. Simply stick the stems in the ground so the boughs are upright and cover the sides and top of the shrub. Works like a charm, it’s free and easy to do.
•  Straw can be used as winter mulch and purchased at a garden or farm supply store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The leaves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. I just discovered some mealy bugs on one plant and will examine all the plants carefully. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do with a particular pest.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix. Meanwhile, you can scrape the crusty soil off and cover with some fresh potting soil. 
• It’s best to wait on repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants until late Feb. Right now, they are resting for the winter and best not to disturb their “nap”.

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• Save yourself some time and leave the leaves in your garden beds. They are a wonderful winter protective blanket for the plants and also provide a much needed habitat for beneficial insects.
• Leaves can also be left in ground cover plants. The leaves will trickle own and help protect the roots over the winter, decompose and feed the soil in spring. If there’s an area with thick piles of leaves they can be easily dispersed by sweeping them into the ground cover with a broom. 
• Many perennials can also be left up for winter. Anything with seed heads provide much needed food for winter birds. Besides I love how they look in winter with snow on them. Perennials with disease or insect infestation should be cut back and discarded.
• If you have extra leaves, they can be mulched with your lawn mower, bagged or piled and saved for use as mulch next season. 
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. Concrete or terra cotta planters & bird baths will crack during the winter, so be sure to get those put away. (I speak from experience)
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. To empty the hose, start at one end and lift it up waist high before coiling it on the ground. Keep lifting and coiling until the whole hose is empty and coiled. This forces the water out the other end. Leaving hoses outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak.
• A handy way to store hoses is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 or 3 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable.
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while to put on the shrub coats. Shrubs protected with deer mesh I’ve already started covering. The mesh keeps deer from munching but is not good as a winter wind protection. Shrubs that need protection from winter winds should be wrapped in burlap or a shrub coat. Waiting until the leaves drop for shrub coats is OK.
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.
• Tools should not be stored while dirty. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Spotted Lantern Fly. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to siphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you all winter.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• It’s probably too late to take cuttings from annuals but if you have some healthy plants give it a try.
• When you bring in any annual or houseplants, remove any damaged leaves. Rinse them off thoroughly with a gentle spray hose and check for insects.
• You can wash the leaves with a Dawn or other mild detergent mixed with water. This can also be used to douche the soil to help get rid of small insects in the soil. Then rinse well. 
• Give the plants time to adjust to the move from outside to inside by putting them in a sheltered place for a few days. Ideally the plants can be moved into the house on a day when the outside and inside temps are close.
• Expect some yellowing and/or leaf drop as the plants adjust to being inside.
• Bringing any plant in usually is accompanied by the appearance of fungus gnats, those pesky little flies that fly in your face. Keep the soil dry and water from the bottom if possible. They reproduce in the top few inches of damp soil. Letting your plants dry out between waterings really helps.

• Start planning now for protection from rabbits, deer, and cold winds. As winter approaches you will be ready to take the appropriate steps.

• Leave the ones that fall in the gardens. Leaves make an effective and free winter mulch. They help protect the crowns from temperature fluctuations.
• Gather mulched leaves for use in compost or save for mulch next spring. They can be stored in large plastic bags.
• If you have a mulching lawn mower leave the mulched leaves and grass in place after the last mowing of the season. It will decompose and feed the grass. If the leaves are really thick in spots spread them around.

• If you have to move a perennial but don’t know where to plant it, pot it up in potting soil and winter over in a protected area.
• If you have an area of groundcover that is out of the wind, put the potted plants right in the groundcover and cover with leaves. Burying the pot in the compost pile and covering with leaves also works well.  If your garage isn’t heated that is another option, again cover with leaves.
• Cut back and remove any perennial that has had a disease like black spot or powdery mildew and remove any leaves left on the soil. Do not compost diseased plant material, dispose of it.
• Many perennials can be left up over winter. The crowns help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations and birds eat the seeds. There are also many beneficial insects which overwinter in the leaf litter or lay their eggs in the stems. In winter I really enjoy seeing the plants peeking up through the snow.

• The Town & Country Garden Club is sponsoring my program on Using Native Plants in Your Garden, Thursday, October 12, from 2-4pm, at the Audubon Public Library, 350 John James Audubon Pkwy.  Seating is limited.  If interested call the library at 716-689-4922 to reserve a seat.
• October is a big month for University Express classes. Check out their full schedule online at: https://www4.erie.gov/universityexpress/  All classes are free and open to the public. I will be offering Fall Is For Gardening at the following locations:
  • 10/2 – 1:00 PM at W. Seneca Sr. Center
  • 10/16 – 1:00 PM at Town of Tonawanda Library
  • 10/20 – 10:30 AM at Orchard Park Senior Center

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Check them well for insets and signs of disease
• Remove weak or damaged leaves
• Wash well with soapy water (a squirt of Dawn in water works well)
• Give them a few days on the porch or other sheltered area where they can start adjusting to indoor light conditions.
• Watch carefully after they’re inside in case any hitch hikers came along.

Dear Gardening Friends,   

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Watering deeply is the key. The moisture must go down where the roots are. The top of the soil can appear moist or dry depending on the circumstances but don’t be fooled by the top few inches of soil. Take a trowel or shovel and make a divot to see if the soil is moist down 6-8 inches.
• The soil in a sunny area can dry out quickly so it’s important to check the moisture where the roots are. There are moisture probes you can purchase that are very helpful.
• I’m not lucky enough to have a drip irrigation system so use a sprinkler. It’s helpful to put a can or jar out near the sprinkler so you can tell how much water is being spread. An inch a week is typical but in this heat it’s definitely not enough. My sprinkler is on for about an hour in the shady areas and almost 2 hours in the sunny, dry sections. Sounds like a long time but you won’t have to water as often.
• Mulching is an excellent way to help the soil retain whatever moisture it gets. Without that protective covering the water evaporates quickly.
• Now that we’ve covered watering it will probably be a rainy June. That would be fine with me.
• Because of the weather I’m not moving/dividing perennials anymore. Had many more plants on the list to be moved &/or divided but now those chores will have to wait till fall. 
• For newly planted perennials or annuals it’s helpful to cover them with a box, bushel basket or large pot to protect them from the heat and hot sun for a few days. It really cuts down on plant shock.
• Anything newly planted or moved should be watered almost daily depending on your conditions. Containers and hanging baskets need frequent watering as well.
• When you plant a new perennial, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going. Make a bouquet out of the flowers so you can enjoy them.
• Early to mid-June is the ideal time to cut back perennials that get very tall to about ½ to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum. Make sure to cut back to a leaf join and not leave stubs.
• Watch out for slugs and snails. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.
• Keep your eye out for insects and diseases. It’s always best to first identify what it is and then what to do about it.
• Weeding is a huge priority. Don’t let them get ahead of you. Once they are well established weeds are much more difficult to remove and they drop seeds to make more weeds for you to deal with. Once you weed, a good layer of mulch will help hold down the weeds and keep moisture from evaporating as quickly.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• Patience is still the best approach. The soil is quite cold and it’s way too soon to even think about planting annuals. Hopefully by mid to end May. If you are tempted and purchase plants that can’t be planted now, keep them in a sheltered place. If the annuals are in flats spread them out so there is good air circulation. Storing them crowded in a flat invites fungal disease.
• If you leave a footprint on the soil that’s a sign the soil is too wet to work in. It’s easy to compact the soil with every footfall so stay off until things dry out.
• It’s helpful to have paths or steppingstones in gardens so you can navigate without harming the soil. If a path isn’t appropriate a few rocks or steppingstones placed appropriately are practical and attractive.

• However, don’t move perennials when the soil is too wet. “Workable” soil means the soil will break apart easily after you make it into a ball in your hand. Clumpy soil won’t settle around the roots well and cause air pockets which can dry out the roots.

• There are lots of deer and critter sprays available. Basically, there are two types, those that smell bad or taste bad. I always prefer the smelly types as I don’t want deer to munch a bit before they realize it tastes bad. It stinks while you’re spraying but dissipates by the next day. There are also products/granules you spread on the ground. Try a variety of products and rotate the ones that work the best for you.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,   

• If you’re dying to do some gardening work on your houseplants. This is a good time to repot, trim and give them a good dusting.
  • If there is a whitish/yellow crusty surface on the top of the soil it’s a good clue to repot and replenish with fresh soil. The buildup is a concentration of salts which is not good for the plant.
  • This can also occur on the outside of the pot. If so, it can be scrubbed off with steel wool.
  • Check your houseplants for any insect or disease problems. Identify what the problem is before trying to treat.
  • An easy way to ID the problem is to GOOGLE possible problems on that specific plant. Select a “.edu” site to do the research. That way you’re getting scientific results.

• There’s lots you can do outside. Whatever you do be mindful of not walking on the soft soil. If you can see your footprint don’t go on the soil.
  • Lots of sticks and branches are down after our damaging winter. Pick up the ones you can reach.
  • This is the ideal time to prune most trees or shrubs (that don’t bloom in the spring).
  • If your tree/shrub has broken or damaged branches those should be pruned back to a main branch or stem. Don’t leave stubs is one of the basic rules of pruning.
  • If a shrub, like an arb, is splayed you can try wrapping it up with twine (not plastic cord). It should be OK.
  • Some trees may just have to be removed. Check with an arborist for an assessment of the damage.
  • Many damaged shrubs can just be cut back, and they will regrow. My Bottle Brush Buckeye is so badly damaged I’m going to cut the whole thing back about 6 inches from the ground and hope for the best.
  • Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.

• Other timely tips
  • Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
  • There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf
  • Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
  • Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
  • The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
  • If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• Before starting any pruning chores clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a HUGE difference.
  • If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance.
  • If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.
  • Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.
  • Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on pruners and shovels.
  • Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• If some of your trees or shrubs are still bent over from the snow and ice wait till it warms up a little and they straighten out.
• Broken or snapped branches should be pruned off back to the main trunk or nearest branch. DON’T LEAVE STUBS. That’s a basic rule of pruning.
• Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way. Also check for branches that are crossing each other and creating a wound from the rubbing.
• There seems to be a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Ornamental grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.
• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be for now.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation
• It’s going to be interesting to see what March brings. It could be Spring or Winter.
• Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs. His books will be available for sale. 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,  

• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• If you still have some trees or shrubs bent or frozen to the ground, just keep being patient an let them melt out naturally. I still have a shrub in front near the street, that the snow mound never totally melted. At this rate it may be there till spring!
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring. Most places that sell garden supplies have sharpeners.

• This is a good time to prune. Any day that’s nice enough to work outside is fine. It’s not too early. First check for wind/storm damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn or broken branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather. That being said, if you don’t get to it before the buds open you won’t hurt the plant.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk. Sharpen and clean those pruners and loppers before starting. It really makes a difference.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs 
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener 

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.
• There are many arbs and other shrubs that are totally bent over. It’s so tempting to try to straighten them but leaving them for now is the best approach.
• If a whole tree has come over and you can right it and cover the roots wit soil it may survive. You’ll probably have to stake it for support until next summer when the roots have taken hold.
• Gathering lower branches from discarded Christmas trees makes an excellent winter mulch to protect tender perennials from temperature fluctuation 
• This is a good time to spend time with your houseplants.
  • Give them a bath to wipe off the accumulated dust and grease. This is especially important for plants in the kitchen where grease is more of an issue.
  • If the plant is small enough, you can take them to the sink and spray them with tepid water. It’s also good to let the water drain through the soil. This helps rinse out accumulated salts.
  • For larger plants you can wipe down the leaves with a mild soapy water cloth or sponge. Then wipe with clear water.
  • Give your plants a haircut. Remove damaged or dead leaves or prune to control size.
  • Check for insects. Sticky residue on leaves or surfaces around the plant is caused by insect droppings. Check the plant carefully to see what insect is there. The most common are aphids, spider mites, white fly or scale.
  • To help in ID check “houseplant pests” on the Cornell website. The site will also have suggestions for control.
• January is when many of us start dreaming of spring and gardening. It’s a good time to plan for improvements and changes. Make a list of what worked and what didn’t then list ideas for what to do next season.
• There are some great educational opportunities coming up that can help in your planning.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening 
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book on hydrangeas will speak on Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends, 

• If branches are stuck in the snow, don’t try and pull them out. Let the snow melt and the branches come up naturally. Trying to pull them out can cause damage to the branch.
• Branches that are broken should be pruned back to where they join a main branch, at the base or where you can see a bud for next year’s growth. Don’t leave stubs.
• Branches that have been bent over from the weight of the snow should be left to straighten out naturally. This could take a long time so relax and let them straighten out when ready.

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth. 
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a ”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

• Paul Zammit – Back by popular demand, one of the top garden speakers in the country will present on Container Gardening
• Tim Boebel – Author of the definitive book n hydrangeas will speak on  Growing Hydrangeas and Flowering Shrubs
• Dr. Allison Chatrychyan – from Cornell University will talk about Climate Smart Solutions for the Home Gardener

•  Nature’s Best Hope, by Doug Tallamy. This book covers a new approach to conservation which starts in your yard.
•  Deer Resistant Native Plants for the Northeast, by Ruth Rogers Clausen and Gregory Tipper. A wonderful resource for anyone with deer issues. Covers detailed information about each plant.
• A Lessons from Nature gift certificate for a garden consult or perennials from the plant sale next May.

Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Watering has to be a priority and the way you water is important.
  • Most pots in the sun will nee watering every day. If it is a very full pot possibly 2/day. Ones in the shade probably less. Watering until the water runs out the bottom of the pot ensures the whole pot is moistened. The way to tell if a pot needs watering is to poke your finger into the soil down a few inches. If the soil is moist you don’t have to water. Overwatering in pots can be as harmful as underwatering.
  • For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
  • Don’t worry if your grass starts to turn brown. Grass naturally goes dormant in dry periods, and it doesn’t harm the grass. It will green up with the next rain.
  • The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
  • For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.
• This past week I’ve seen a few Japanese beetles. If you get the first ones, you will decrease the total amount that find you. Check the plants you know they prefer. Get out a container with a few inches of soapy water and knock the little buggers in. Gives me great satisfaction. For more info: https://blogs.cornell.edu/willow/files/2014/10/Japanese-Beetle-Popillia-japonica-fact-sheet-16vi6b4.pdf
• An insect that is in abundance this season is 4 lined plant bug. It’s a small yellow and black striped true bug that has a piercing mouth part that leaves small round dark circles in the leaves. Fortunately, this doesn’t kill the plants, but it is unsightly. They lay their eggs in the stems of the effected plants so at the end of the season cutting down those stems helps reduce the infestation next year. For more info: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/four-lined-plant-bug/
• I’ve also seen signs of powdery mildew. This is a whiteish coating on the leaves. For plants like phlox that are susceptible to fungal disease you can start treatment before it shows symptoms. Treat with an environmentally safe fungicide specific to your problem. Remove affected leaves and disinfect your pruner and hands before moving to another plant. For more info:  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/powdery-mildew/
• If you fertilize your plants, it’s best to do it when the soil is moist. Natural fertilizers are much better for the plants and soil than chemical ones. Chemical fertilizers contain salts which kill the natural microbes in the soil which are what feed the plants. Chemical fertilizer is OK for pots as that soil is discarded each year.
• Because of the intense heat it’s best to wait till fall to do any transplanting. It’s very stressful for the plants. If you have to move something, give the plant some shelter from the sun with a box or umbrella for a few days and keep it well watered.
• If any of you are having problems with the lily leaf beetle (a small red beetle on true lilies) try a squirt of Dawn dish liquid in a spray bottle of water. A few people have said that helps. I’ve seen them on tricyrtis (toad lily) this year so check out those as well. For more information check:

• Then there’s weeding… Just when you think you’re finished more pop up. Try and keep up or at least remove or deadhead weeds before they drop seed. If you haven’t mulched this will help control the weeds.

 
Gardening events in July:
 
Garden Walk Buffalo, Open Garens and the weekend community garden walks are up and running. Open Gardens are every Thursday and Friday in July. Unfortunately my gardens will not be open this year.
 
For information and schedules go to https://www.gardensbuffaloniagara.com/ or buffaloniagaragardening,com. The Open Garden books which include all activities are also available at select nurseries and some of the Open Gardens.
 
The East Aurora Garden Walk will be July 16 & 17, 10:00 – 3:00. My gardens will be open that weekend. Stop by and say hello.
 
 
Lessons from Nature events:
 
I will start hypertufa and concrete birdbath and steppingstone classes in a few weeks. Each class is $30 and you get to make 2. Contact me and we can set up a class of up to 4 people.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices as well as save you time and money! It’s not too late for improvements.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

Because of the few mild spring like days we’ve had we have to remember it is March and spring could be a long way off. This has been an unusual winter so it’s hard to know what to expect. We just must be patient and know spring WILL come eventually. The following are some ideas of what you can do now to prepare for the gardening season.

• It’s not too early to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Personally, I’m waiting a bit so my hands don’t freeze.  Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.

• Take advantage of the continuing cold weather to get your garden tools cleaned and sharpened.

• If pruners and loppers are sticky and don’t open and close smoothly rubbing alcohol will loosen and remove the gummy substance. If the pruners/loppers come apart easily that is the best way to clean them.

• Sharpening pruners/loppers is also essential for clean cuts that don’t damage or tear the branches. Most blade sharpening tools will work although there are sharpeners made specially for pruners and loppers.

• Steel wool helps remove rusty sections on shovels as well as pruners. Try using the blade sharpener on your shovels. It makes a huge difference.

• When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)

• Dead or damaged branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.

• I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. Disinfect your tools after working on an infected tree. For information go to: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/blackknot.pdf

• Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If it’s done it when the soil is very wet or still frozen the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.

• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.

• Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.

• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site. Consider a native plant for the site.

• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.

• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.

• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.

Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.

Saturday, May 21st, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora, corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz

Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 27, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 28, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.

Educational Opportunity:

Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 12 from 9:00am – 3:00pm.  

We are excited to announce his year’s Education Day will be in person. This will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:

Joseph Tychonievich, rated one of the best gardening speakers in the country and noted author will make two presentations:

 Rock Gardening, Reimagining a Classic Style for Today’s Garden

Great, Non-Wimpy Plants that You Don’t Already Grow

Joseph Han, owner of The English Gardener Landscaping Company will present on:

Floriferous Design

The cost is, $45 for MG’s, $60 for the public. Morning break with snacks and hot buffet lunch included.
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events or call 652-5400 ext. 176.

Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help with pruning, improve your garden and gardening practices and save you money!
 

Happy Gardening!

Lyn Chimera

Lessons from Nature

170 Pine St.

E. Aurora, NY 14052

[email protected]

652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• If you collected pine boughs for winter plant protection and there’s too much snow to put them out, just save them in the garage or a pile and put them out when the snow melts.
• If you are having ice build-up in driveways and sidewalks, be cautious of what you use to melt the ice. Salt can be very damaging to the soil, plants, and the environment in general.
• It would be wise to shovel the black nasty salt laden “gunk” in the driveway somewhere other than garden beds. My back garden abuts the driveway, so this is always an issue for me. I used to wonder why the plants along the drive never did well! It’s a little more effort, but worth it.
• We’ve had a lot of wind lately so it’s a good time to pick up sticks and debris.
• If you didn’t clean and sharpen your tools last fall now is a perfect time. They will be ready to go when you need them in the spring.

• This is a good time to prune. First check for wind damaged branches. It’s best to remove torn branches. A nice clean pruning cut is much easier for the tree/shrub to heal in the spring.
• The ideal time to prune non spring blooming trees & shrubs is while they are still dormant, and their buds have not begun opening. Anything that blooms in the spring should be pruned AFTER they bloom.
• Usually, spring pruning can be done well into March. Once the buds start to open it’s past the ideal time. Some years that was May! It all depends on the weather.
• The basic pruning rule is don’t leave stubs. Make clean cuts close to a bud, branch divide or outside the branch collar on the trunk.
• For details on pruning specific plants check online at an “.edu” site or contact me for a pruning consultation.

• Now is a good time to spend some time with your houseplants. A mid- winter “shower” in the sink or bathtub will wash off the accumulated dust and make for a healthier plant. If a plant is too large to move, you can use a damp cloth or soft sponge to wipe down the leaves.
• Now that the days are getting longer you can resume a light plant food application. If you use fertilizer look for a natural rather than chemical formula. Just read the ingredients and follow the directions. I tend to use half strength.
• You can also start spring repotting houseplants that have become pot bound. If the water drains right through when you water it or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot, those are good signs that the plant is pot bound.
• Another sign to indicate repotting is crusty salt build up on the top of the soil. This residue may be on the outside of terra cotta pots as well. The pots can be scrubbed off before repotting. If the soil crust isn’t severe the top few inches of crusted soil and be removed and replaced with fresh potting soil.
• Also check for aphids, mealybugs and other houseplant pests. Feeling a sticky residue around a plant is a good sign there is an insect problem. A good soapy water bath is a solution to many problems.

           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432
 
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Believe it or not you can still plant those bulbs in the garage! As long as the ground isn’t frozen you can plant them.
• Since there isn’t any snow cover (at least as I write this here in E Aurora) there is time to finish those fall chores you didn’t get to like bringing in plant stakes and supports. I just completed that core this week.
• Anything else like garden art, birdbaths or pots should be brought in the garage, basement or wherever you keep things that will be damaged by winters snow and ice.
• If you still have unplanted trees or shrubs that can be planted as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
• Left over potted perennials can be dug into the ground or compost pile. They can also be placed together in ground cover or in the garage and covered with leaves or straw to protect from temperature fluctuations.
• Perennial weeds can be removed if you can reach them without stepping on the soft soil. Imagine weeding in January!
• Many of the perennials left up will get knocked over by snow or wind. That’s OK. They form a nice winter protection for the root systems.
• Check out last month’s Garden Tips on my website (lessonsfromnature.biz) for more tips on winter protection. Since we haven’t had much snow it’s necessary to offer some added protection from temperature fluctuations AND critters.

• Saturday, February 12, 9:00-11:45 - Backyard Gardening, Food and Flowers. Two sessions to be held on Zoom.
• Saturday, February 26, 9:00-11:45 - Pollinators and the Plants They Love – Two sessions to be held on Zoom.

Dear Gardening Friends,
 

• Pine boughs – they make an easy and excellent winter mulch. As soon as people discard their Christmas trees I go around and clip the larger branches from the bottom then place them over plants that needed protection. You can also check out your local dump (where the village/town takes all the trees) and cut enough for the whole yard in a short time. It’s a wonderful way to get some quick and easy mulch that works well. So, take advantage of this free resource. (Just don’t collect from my neighborhood!)
• Leaves work well also. Instead of raking them all to the street save a few bags or piles to much those tender perennials.
•  Straw can be used in the same way and purchased at a garden or farm supply         store. The important thing is not to use hay which would drop seeds and turn your garden into a hayfield. Trust me, I speak from experience!
• This is a good time to prune away any branches that have been or might be damaged from winter wind or in the way. Make sure to trim back to a branch join and not leave stubs. Most other pruning should wait till late winter/early spring.
• Picking up downed branches and debris is always a good winter job. Just be mindful of walking on soft garden or turf.

• Trim off yellowing/ browning leaves or branches.
• Give your plants a shower to wash off the dust. Either in the sink or tub. The laves of larger plants can be wiped down with a natural sponge or damp soft cloth.
• Check for insects. If there is sticky residue on leaves or areas under a plant that is a sign of scale, aphid or white fly. Check online at a”.edu” site for what to do.
• If your plant has a white crusty residue on the soil or water runs right through the pot when you water, the plant should be repotted later in the winter when the days get longer. Use a good lightweight potting mix.
• By mid-February you can start repotting and taking cuttings of overwintering annuals or houseplants

• This is a good time to look through catalogues and plan for the upcoming season.
• Don’t just look at the pretty flowers in catalogues, be sure to match any plants you plan to use to the growing conditions you have and consider adding a few natives.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Pull all annuals. It’s tough when some still look so good but they are easier to deal with before they collapse from frost 
• It’s late to bring in annuals as the nights have been so cold, they won’t adapt well to the warm house. This goes for cuttings also.
• Bring in garden ornaments, plant stands, pots, hoses, or anything else that’s best not kept outside all winter. 
• Hoses should be emptied and brought into the garage or basement. Leaving them outside to freeze can cause sections to burst and leak. A handy way to store them is to coil the hose up and tie with twine in 2 places. That prevents the hose from getting all tangled and you can stack or hang them easily. This is easier to do on a warmer day as the hose won’t be as stiff to coil. If it is sunny lay the hose in the sun for a while and it will be more pliable. 
• Now is the time to make winter critter protection a priority. My fencing will start going up this weekend. Depending on how the weather goes I’m waiting a while for the shrub coats. It’s predicted to be a warmer than average November, but time will tell. (Check my website for last months Garden Tips. They contain more detailed info on winter protection.)
• If you have any products in an unheated garage like deer spray, Neem oil, liquid fertilizer or anything that would be exposed to freezing temps move them to the basement or other location where they will not freeze. Freezing ruins the effectiveness of some products.
• Tools should also not be left outside. Clean off tools before you store them as any dirt left on over the winter will cause them to rust or corrode. You can sharpen them now or in the winter when you’re dreaming of spring.
• Check stored firewood for insect infestations. Remember not to use or move firewood out of your area to help prevent the spread of invasive insects like the Emerald Ash Borer. It’s illegal to move firewood more than 50 miles in NYS.
• If you have a rain barrel, drain it before freezing sets in. A good idea to use the water that’s left is to syphon the water out and use it to water house plants during the winter. I attach a hose to the faucet on the rain barrel and run it from the rain barrel into 2 large, covered garbage totes in the basement. Gravity does the work for you and your houseplants will thank you.
• Houseplant tips: If you brought in houseplants that were outside all summer check them for insects. They will probably drop some leaves which is a normal reaction to being moved inside. Make sure to give them the appropriate conditions. It’s best not to crowd them although being grouped together lightly helps hold in humidity. Most plants will not do well in windowsills where it’s colder and the leaves come in contact with the cold glass. It’s better to put up a table in front of the window.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• The temps have been below 50 a few nights so if you haven’t brought in your plants for the winter do it now. While the cooler temps won’t necessarily kill a houseplant or annual it makes the transition to indoor living and dry furnace heat less of a shock and they may not do as well. Be sure to wash them off well with soapy water and check for critters before bringing in. 
• Weed,weed,weed! With the soil a little more moist it’s much easier and you’ll thank yourself in the spring when those perennial weeds aren’t there. Besides weeding is a great way to notice things that need attention in the garden.
• Cut back and remove any perennial that has had a disease like black spot or powdery mildew and remove any leaves left on the soil. Do not compost diseased plant material, dispose of it.
• As far as moving perennials now, they need at least 4 weeks to settle their roots in before the soil gets below 50 degrees. That’s the iffy part. It’s impossible to predict. I moved some ground cover a week ago and am hoping the mild weather lasts. At this point it may be safer to wait till spring. Anything transplanted this fall should be kept well watered until the ground freezes and mulch it well after the ground does freeze.
• Many perennials can be left up over winter. The crowns help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations and birds eat the seeds. There are also many beneficial insects which overwinter in the leaf litter or lay their eggs in the stems.
• If you have any potted perennials that haven’t been planted yet you can store them in a garage, dig the pot into the soil or place it among ground cover and cover with leaves. The important thing is to prevent the roots from freezing. If you have an open compost pile you can dig them in there and cover with leaves. It’s a good idea to hold the leaves down with deer or bird netting so they don’t blow away over the winter. This also helps prevent small critters from digging in. 
• As your annuals fade, pull them out roots and all. It’s easier to remove them before the frost makes them mushy. They can be added to the compost, soil on the roots as well.
• Although fall isn’t the best time to prune many trees and shrubs, any dead or damaged branches should be trimmed. This will eliminate the possibility of them breaking during a winter storm, and damaging home, garage, etc. Any branches that have grown large enough to be in the way or in danger of poking someone in the eye should also be removed.
• That being said, if a dead branch or tree, is not in the way of harming anything you can leave it up. Dead trees and branches are a wonderful habitat for beneficial insects and a natural bird feeder for woodpeckers and other insect eating birds.
• There’s still time to plant bulbs but do it soon as it’s best of they have time to set roots and make them strong for spring bloom. If you have trouble with critters digging up the bulbs, put a layer of pea gravel just under the soil level as you fill the planting hole. This will keep them from digging. You can also use small chicken wire.
• When you do the last mowing of the season leaves the mulched leaves on the lawn along with the grass clippings. It’s good “food” for the lawn.
• Speaking of leaves…SAVE THOSE LEAVES! Let the leaves protect your gardens, you can remove them in the spring if needed. Save any mulched leaves for use as mulch next spring. You can store them in a pile outside or in leaf bags. I keep my bags of mulched leaves under some trees for the winter and it’s ready to use in the spring. Mulched leaves are proving to be the most beneficial garden mulch as it helps improve the soil as well as keep the weeds down.

 
You can still contact me for a garden consult. Having plans in place for improvements next spring is ideal.
        
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
716-652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• The first step is to assess what you think needs to be done. I like walking around the garden with a notebook and writing down ideas of what should be divided, moved, or eliminated as well as what you’d like to add or change for next year.
• Second, I prioritize chores into things to be accomplished this fall and those that can wait until spring. Some of which depend on the weather and of course how long my energy lasts! 
• When the weather starts cooling down and we get more consistent rain it will be time to start dividing and moving perennials. I have been holding off until the weather cooperates as it’s really hard on plants to be moved in this dry heat.
• Reasons for moving and/or dividing can be:
  • When a plant develops a “doughnut hole” or bare spot in the middle of the clump.
  • If a perennial has become overcrowded &/or oversized.
  • If a plant isn’t performing well where it has been for a few years. You can move it to a more appropriate location to meet its growing needs or share with a friend.
  • You just don’t like the way it looks in that spot.
• Fall clean up will depend on the weather. I tend to leave up perennials that don’t have disease or insect infestation. The seed heads feed the birds and the crowns of the plants help protect them from winter temperature fluctuations.
  • Plants with powdery mildew should be cut back to the base and all stray leaves cleaned up from the ground. This is important as the fungal spores can winter over if left.
  • Plants that had 4 lined plant bug damage (small lines of black spots on the leaves) should be cut to the base as the insect lays its eggs in the stems of affected plants.
• Weeding is an important fall job. The seeded annual weeds you remove won’t be dropping seeds for next spring and the perennial weeds will be removed before they get larger and harder to deal with. This will be a chore until the first freeze.
• Many people ask about pruning in the fall.
  • Most pruning should be done late winter early spring including roses, trees, and shrubs.
  • The exception is spring blooming trees and shrubs. They should be pruned right after blooming.
  • Another exception is any branches that are in the way, damaged or dead. Dead plant material can be removed anytime.
• Fall is an ideal time to plant grass seed but wait for cooler weather and look for grass seed that is appropriate for your site. Don’t forget to keep it watered. 
• It’s a good time to plant trees and shrubs. Check local nurseries for sales.
  • Perennials will be on sale as well. Check sale plants, trees and shrubs carefully for signs of insects and disease. An unhealthy or infested plant is no bargain.
  • Trees and shrubs, as well as perennials should be planted when they will have at least 4 weeks for their roots to settle in and should be well watered until the soil freezes.
• Now is also a good time to plant bulbs. They will have time to settle in before the ground freezes.

 
Educational Opportunity:
 
Master Gardener Fall Gardening Classes will be held live this year and you won’t want to miss them. All classes will be held at CCE, East Aurora
 
Tuesday, September 14, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Mackenzie Schuler, Lockwood’s Garden Center
‘Growing Succulents Indoors and Outdoors’: Learn about special soil, watering, and sunlight exposure needs to care for these popular and unusual plants.
 
Wednesday, September 22, 6:30 – 8:00 pm
Nate Morey, NYS DEC Forestry Region 9
‘Caring for Trees and Shrubs’: Choose the right tree for your site and learn how to plant,
fertilize, water and protect it from disease and invasive insects.
 
Saturday, September 25, 10:00 – 11:30 am
Emere Nieves, Community Garden Trainer
‘Worm Composting’: An alternative to traditional composting, worm composting
recycles food scraps and other organic material into a nutrient rich soil amendment.
 
Cost: Individual class: $15, Public: 3 classes for $45, Master Gardeners: 3 classes for $40
Registration information at: erie.cce.cornell.edu
 
Fall Perennial Sale: Lessons from Nature, 170 Pine Street E Aurora
 
My garden is overflowing with plants that can’t wait till spring to be divided. The sale will be by pre-order only. Let me know what you want, and I will let you know when you can pick them up.
If you have any questions about the plants just let me know. (Contact info below)
 
Native white violet                             Large blue hosta
Lenten Rose seedlings                                    Med. Late blooming hosta
Brunnera                                             Native Big leaf aster
Native Gold Star                                 Native Wood Poppy
Tricyrtis                                              Dwarf Astilbe
White & Yellow Corydalis                 Native Chocolate Snake Root
Curly Ginger                                       Dragon Arum
Pachysandra                                        Native White Wood Aster
Tansy                                                  Holly Fern
Native Flowering raspberry                Native Golden Ragwort
Native Amsonia                                  Native Blue Wood Aster
Native Shrubby St. John’s Wort         Persicaria
Forget-Me-Not                                    Native White Snake Root
Joe Pye weed             
 
Garden Consult:
 
Late summer is when you can assess your successes and failures and make improvements for next year. What to keep, what to get rid of or what to move. A Garden Consultation can help you decide what worked, what didn’t, why these issues occurred, and what you can do about them. Call or e-mail to set up an appointment.
 
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
716-652-2432
 
 
 
 

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Japanese beetles are almost done (at least in my garden). I’m only getting 4 or 5/day instead of lots. I count them as I flick them into a container of soapy water. It gives me great pleasure.
• You may notice some things are blooming either early or late. This is probably due to the erratic weather we’ve had since early spring. It’s not a long-term concern but I do hope there are some fall blooms left in late fall for the hungry pollinators. 
• Depending on the weather, mid to late August is a good time to start dividing and transplanting perennials. A few tips:
  • If it’s hot and dry hold off till the temps cool down and we get rain. It’s very stressful for a perennial to be dug up and replanted when it’s hot and dry especially if they are in the sun. They go into shock. Giving them some shade with a basket or box for a few days really helps. Transplanting in the shade is much more forgiving.
  • Cutting a tall perennial back a little to reduce the amount of greenery the newly moved plant has to support is less stressful for the plant.
  • Wait to divide until a plant has stopped blooming.
  • The old standard recommendation is if it blooms in the spring move it in the fall and if it blooms in summer/fall move it in spring.
  • This being said, there are many perennials you can divide and move anytime, daylilies. hosta, many groundcovers, and ferns among them.
  • Make sure the plants you move are well hydrated until the ground freezes.
• By mid-August you can stop fertilizing if that is part of your routine. The plants are slowing down and preparing for winter dormancy.
• Leave seed heads on plants as they provide winter food for birds.
• Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product. 
• A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.
• Spiders are more common in fall. Some people don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.
• Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if it’s hot, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler weather.
  • If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler weather. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.
  • When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.
  • If you do reseed make sure to keep the area well watered.

• Pruning trees and shrubs, including roses is best done in early spring. Pruning in the fall can cause new growth to sprout which will be too weak to survive the winter.
  • The exception is if there are damaged branches or branches that are in the way. They should be removed.
• If you have oak trees, be aware there is a pathogen, Oak Wilt, that can be deadly to oaks. To help prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The insect that spreads the disease lays its eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Japanese beetles are almost done (at least in my garden). I’m only getting 4 or 5/day instead of lots. I count them as I flick them into a container of soapy water. It gives me great pleasure.
• You may notice some things are blooming either early or late. This is probably due to the erratic weather we’ve had since early spring. It’s not a long-term concern but I do hope there are some fall blooms left in late fall for the hungry pollinators. 
• Depending on the weather, mid to late August is a good time to start dividing and transplanting perennials. A few tips:
  • If it’s hot and dry hold off till the temps cool down and we get rain. It’s very stressful for a perennial to be dug up and replanted when it’s hot and dry especially if they are in the sun. They go into shock. Giving them some shade with a basket or box for a few days really helps. Transplanting in the shade is much more forgiving.
  • Cutting a tall perennial back a little to reduce the amount of greenery the newly moved plant has to support is less stressful for the plant.
  • Wait to divide until a plant has stopped blooming.
  • The old standard recommendation is if it blooms in the spring move it in the fall and if it blooms in summer/fall move it in spring.
  • This being said, there are many perennials you can divide and move anytime, daylilies. hosta, many groundcovers, and ferns among them.
  • Make sure the plants you move are well hydrated until the ground freezes.
• By mid-August you can stop fertilizing if that is part of your routine. The plants are slowing down and preparing for winter dormancy.
• Leave seed heads on plants as they provide winter food for birds.
• Check your plants regularly for signs of insect or disease. I have noticed some fungal disease showing up. Determine the cause, and if any action is necessary, BEFORE you arbitrarily spray a pesticide or herbicide. Remember pesticides kill ALL insects, and herbicides kill ALL plants, the good with the bad. Always look for a nontoxic product. 
• A few holes in your leaves are not necessarily a disaster. Beneficial insects have to eat too. Remember butterflies and moths come from caterpillars so they are not necessarily the bad guys.
• Spiders are more common in fall. Some people don’t like spiders but keep in mind they are your friend! Spiders are one of the best predators of harmful insects in your garden.
• Mid-August to mid-September is ideal for starting grass seed. However, if it’s hot, wait a while. Grass seed germinates better in cooler weather.
  • If you have some bare spots or thinning turf, you can over seed during the cooler weather. Simply scatter some seed right over the existing grass and bare spots. If the bare spot is larger than a few inches, it’s best to loosen the soil a little with a hand cultivator so the seed makes good contact with the ground.
  • When buying grass seed make sure to match your sight requirements (amount of sun, moisture and soil pH) to the type of seed.
  • If you do reseed make sure to keep the area well watered.

• Pruning trees and shrubs, including roses is best done in early spring. Pruning in the fall can cause new growth to sprout which will be too weak to survive the winter.
  • The exception is if there are damaged branches or branches that are in the way. They should be removed.
• If you have oak trees, be aware there is a pathogen, Oak Wilt, that can be deadly to oaks. To help prevent the disease don’t prune any oaks until they are dormant. The insect that spreads the disease lays its eggs in newly cut wood when the sap is still active.

• For vegetables, annuals, and perennials in the ground watering long once or twice a week is better than daily short watering. The water needs to soak into the soil down where the roots are. To check take a trowel or shovel and make a divot. If it’s moist in the root zone (5-6 inches) you don’t need to water. The standard is an inch a week but in this heat that may not be enough especially in a sunny area.
• The amount of watering will depend on the amount of sun and wind the area gets and how porous the soil is. In my garden some places in this extreme heat need watering every 4 days others in the shade maybe once a week or less.
• For those recently planted perennials and annuals, they will need water more often that established plants as their roots aren’t well established.

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Thanks to so many of you who came to my plant sale. It was such fun to see everyone, and it was a perfect day after a very hot week.
• The weather continues to be challenging. Looks like we’re in for more high heat and dry weather. Because of the forecast I have stopped dividing and moving pants except for ones located in the shade. It’s just too stressful on them. Planting potted plants from a nursery is still OK.
• You often read about shading newly planted plants or waiting to plant for a cloudy day with rain forecasted but that’s been tough lately. A way to improve success is to cover the plant with a box or bushel basket for 2-3 days depending on how sunny/cloudy it is. An old umbrella put at the right angle works as well. This is the first year I’ve done this, and the results are amazing. Bushel Baskets or cardboard boxes work well as they don’t hold in the heat as much as a plastic tote would.
• If you do divide or plant a perennial, it’s best to cut off any blooms. This gives the plant energy to set in roots as opposed to trying to keep flowers going.
• Pinch back perennials that get very tall to reduce the final height and promote branching and increase bloom. Common plants for this are phlox, asters, mums and sedum.
• Watch out for slugs and snails. There are many products on the market that are not toxic, yet effective at getting rid of slugs and snails. I hand pick everyone I see but with gloves or a paper towel. The slug slime is extremely difficult to wash off your hands. I can attest to this firsthand! Once you make that mistake you won’t do it again.
• Be alert for any insect issues you have had in the past. As soon as you notice damage, take action. Identify what the insect is and research the best and most ecological way to deal with it. It’s much easier to control at the onset than once a lot of damage is done.
• I’ve been hearing a lot about aphid invasions. Luckily, they are easily taken care of. Wait a few days and see if ladybugs and other insects that eat aphids come and take care of them. If not squirt them with a strong hose nozzle and that will knock most of them off and kill them. You will need to repeat this every few days. If that doesn’t take care of it put a squirt of Dawn in a spray bottle and spray the little buggers. This combination has always worked for me. 
• Any newly planted or moved plants should be watered almost daily depending on how much sun they are in. It’s best to water them before they get droopy as drying out saps their strength and makes them weak. Early morning or evening are the best times to water. Once their roots are well established, they will be more tolerant of dry periods.
• Weeding is a huge priority. Don’t let them get ahead of you. Once they are well established weeds are much more difficult to remove and they drop seeds to make more weeds for you to deal with. Once you weed, a good layer of mulch will help hold down the weeds and keep moisture from evaporating as quickly.
• The deer tick population is increasing as has the incidence of Lymes disease. People are finding them in their gardens. Wherever there are deer and black footed mice there is a chance of ticks. For complete information and suggestions check out the Department of Health in Erie County’s website: http://www2.erie.gov/health/index.php?q=ticks-lyme-disease. It has a video of how to remove a tick and info on how to prevent as well as identify.

 
I’m happy to say we are starting up classes for making hypertufa planters and concrete birdbaths, stepping stones, and draped concrete containers. The cost is $30 and you get to make 2. If interested contact me and we can work out a convenient time.
 
Now is the time you may be having problems or questions about your garden. Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can answer your questions and help improve your garden and gardening practices Which will save you time ad money.
 
 
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432

Dear Gardening Friends,

• Now is the perfect time to prune non spring flowering shrubs. Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned after they bloom.
• When pruning be sure not to leave stubs. Make cuts just over the place where a bud is coming out or if it’s a branch make the cut just outside the branch collar. (a rough section of bark where one branch joins the trunk)
• Dead branches can be removed anytime along with branches that are in the way.
• Before starting any pruning projects clean and sharpen your tools. It makes a huge difference. If the plant has had a disease, disinfect your pruner/lopper before moving to another plant or branch if just one branch is affected.
• I have noticed a lot of black knot fungus on flowering cherry and plum trees. It can affect ornamental and fruit bearing trees. The affected sections look like swollen black knots on the branches and should be pruned out 8 inches away from the “knot”. This is a highly contagious fungal disease so don’t ignore it. For information go to:

• Once the soil dries out a little you can rake or sweep up the road grit from driveway and road edges. If you do it when the soil is very wet the grass will be damaged. The same goes for raking leaves blown onto the lawn.  Patience is the basic recommendation. We’re all anxious to get going but doing things under the wrong conditions can cause damage.
• Gently rake up mulch/leaves that may be over areas where bulbs and early perennials like daylilies are poking through. I always leave some leaves as protection for late season snow & frost. We are bound to have some of both before consistently warmer weather arrives.
• Grasses should be cut back before the new growth starts so now is a good time. Wear long sleeves as they have “razor” edges which is why deer don’t eat them.
• This is a perfect time for “wishful thinking”. What changes do you want to make, plants to add, move, divide, or remove? First consider the site, light, type of soil etc. THEN research plants suited to that site.
• The soil should be above 50 degrees and form a loose clump in your hand before you start any moving or dividing. Again, patience pays off in the end. It’s doubtful we will be able to do anything other than clean up by the end of the month.
• If you’ve left plants up from last fall don’t be in a hurry to cut them back. Many beneficial insects overwinter or lay their eggs in the stems and litter around the crown. The same goes for leaf litter in the garden. There are a lot of insects and larva living in the ground litter. Just let it be.
• If you need advice on how to transplant, divide, prune, what to plant etc. contact me for a consultation. If, like me, you still have lots of areas of snow cover in your yard, wait until it’s gone to arrange a consultation.

 
Upcoming Plant Sales: Put them on your calendar now!
 

Lessons from Nature and Amanda’s Garden Native and Perennial Plant Sale.
Saturday, May 22nd, 9:00 – 2:00.  170 Pine St., E Aurora,
corner of Pine & Lawrence.

Clients and those of you who get my tips can come at 8:00 and beat the rush. We will have a larger variety of native plants on that one day than anywhere in WNY.  All my plants are dug fresh from my garden and those from Amanda’s Garden are started from seed by Ellen. Fultz, the owner. A listing of what plants will be available will be in the May Garden Tips and on my web site – lessonsfromnature.biz
 
Master Gardener Plant Sale, Friday May 21, 8:30 – 3:00, Saturday May 22, 8:30 – 2:00, First Presbyterian Church, 1 Symphony Circle, across from Kleinhans. Perennials and annuals for sun and shade, natives, succulents, hypertufa and draped concrete pots, vegetable starts, herbs, shrubs and garden art.
 
Educational Opportunity:
 
Master Gardener Education Day, Saturday, March 13 from 9:00am – 12:45pm.  
You won’t want to miss this great opportunity to hear 2 outstanding speakers from the comfort of your own home. This past week I had the opportunity to have a “test run” with both presenters and am really excited about their presentations.
 
This year’s Education Day will be a shot in the arm for the winter blahs as well as being very entertaining and educational. There will be 2 presentations:
 
Rick Darke - Co-author with Doug Tallamy of The Living Landscape will present Dynamic Design and Stewardship of Living Landscapes.
  
Paul Zammit, professor at Niagara College in Ontario, past Director of Horticulture at the Toronto Botanical Gardens and international speaker will present: Planning and Planting for All Seasons.
 
If you haven’t registered yet you need to do so by this Wed.. 
Fees: Erie County Master Gardener - $25; Other Master Gardener &CNLP - $30; Public - $35
Registration is required! Register at erie.cce.cornell.edu/events.
 
Don’t forget to contact me for a garden consult. I can help improve your garden and gardening practices.
           
Happy Gardening!
Lyn Chimera
Lessons from Nature
170 Pine St.
E. Aurora, NY 14052
[email protected]
652-2432